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🔧 Leak detection made easy—stay ahead of the game!
The BESYL Refrigerant Halogen Leak Detector is a portable tester designed to detect all types of halogen refrigerant gases, featuring a 25-hour sensor life, adjustable sensitivity, and an eco-friendly design with ultra-low power consumption. Its dual-color display provides real-time battery voltage information, ensuring you’re always prepared for any task.
F**O
Works good just move slowly and don’t block tip. Read for general (novice) repair tips.
NOTE: Freon is used as a generic term, use the refrigerant specific to you unit, most CANNOT be substituted for each other so get the right stuff. If working with a split AC you may need to buy a 5/16” to 1/4” adaptor as it is normally not included in with the system (nor is it included with many gauge sets… make sure you have everything you need before starting). Most leaking connections can be fixed by tighten a LITTLE bit more, but in some cases you will need to recut and reflare the pipes so you will need to buy a flaring tool (cost $15 to $100… usually the most basic set with good rating will due unless you need double flares which most people don’t)You can get good readings but move extra slow and don’t touch anything with end of tip (even your finger) or you get a false positive sound). Make sure to start up in fresh air with no wind for 10 seconds to let it calibrate. Then move SLOWLY (LIKE 1/4” PER SECOND) and CLOSELY (LIKE 1/4” CLOSE) but do not let touch surface. Moving it quickly can cause false positive sound. You’ll get there if you do the above and take your time. Last tip, A/C must be on for about 5 mins so pressure builds up (the smaller the leak the more pressure system will need to cause leak to happen). Heat pump activation runs at 4x pressure of AC so that is another way to get pressure up, but heat pump does take time to pressurize as well.. I recommend cool cycle and watch for frost to start to accumulate on the grill (frost happens when freon is low)…when you start to see a little frost, then start searching slowly.Once leak found KEEP GOING… YOU MIGHT HAVE MORE THAN ONE, Most common places are connection points at end of lines, Schaefer valves/service ports, and any kinks you may have created. Be careful inserting where you cannot see as thus thing is metal and AC units can run at upto 240volts (ouch would be an understatement). Buy some AC drying/sealant stuff to add to system after you fix the leak for added piece of mind.Note on refilling: Refilling is tricky as it normally requires emptying and vacuuming full system which 99% of people cannot do, but if your system still has “freon” then you can top it off… you can use gauges to determine pressure and a scale to determine how much weight in freon you are adding (weigh can before and after) but these two are just good guidelines to ensure your not going way outside of manufacturer specs (like if the entire unit can’ have more than 3lbs of freon the you certainly would nit go over that topping it off, right? (And chances are you would not even want to come close) …My recommendations for the novice is:1) Call a professional to do it the right way… have the check and charge your system. It will i varuably make your system last longer.2) If you refuse to do that here is the best advice I have found…just remember you are doing this at your own risk: This advice is NOT from an HVAC tech, it is just what I have read from other novices that have had reported success: FIRST OFF WEAR GLOVES… FREON CAN EASILY CAUSE FROST BURNS ON YOUR SKIN… All homeowners skip the gloves for a project here or there, but THIS IS NOT ONE TO SKIP GLOVES ON. SAME GOES FOR EYE PROTECTION.With all that said:Run the system until you see frost on grill and then SLOWLY add freon until the frost starts to go away… and also check temp of air until it seems reasonably cool for your unit). Let the unit run a while and check frost and air temp levels until satisfied (while keeping an eye on pressure and total weight added). Once satisfied check the unit daily for frost, then weekly, then monthly. Remember that a heat pump generates 4x the pressure so you can use that as a final test once the temps outside start to drop. There is often an override for heatpump testing when weather is hot which is handy because (after running the heat pump for a while) then you can go back to cool mode and see if frost starts to appear as a quick check for a leak.If you add sealant/drying to the AC make sure to run the ac for an hour afterwards to let the sealant circulate though the system. The stiuff is expensive but worth it for piece of mind.Example of a sealant/dryer:“Leak Saver: Direct Inject Ultimate 3-in-1 Leak Sealant with Moisture Remover and UV Dye for AC, Refrigeration, and Automotive Systems up to 5 Tons - Compatible with All Refrigerants” available on Amazon as of this writing.
M**L
Works Great!
Easy to use reliable great item.
B**N
Not sensitive enough to do it's job
I used this side by side with another leak detector. It misses leaks pretty easily. This thing will have you chasing leaks for the rest of your life
M**A
It’s not worth the money
A/c
R**R
Detects r410
This unit actually detects r410. The other 2 units i bought did not. Their description said they would.
J**A
Ok
Ok
M**K
It is simple and it is effective
I was pretty sure I had a leak in my minisplit AC system. I got the tester and I found 2 leaks (on the service valve set screw and Schrader valve). None on the flare fittings (where I figured they would be). It was very easy to find the leak and the product works exactly as it says it does. The tester was ordered Saturday morning and Sunday night I was testing for leaks.
A**L
Practico
Lo que esperaba.
Trustpilot
3 days ago
2 days ago