SCIGRIP 10299 3 Acrylic Solvent Cement, Low-VOC, Water-Thin and Very Fast Setting, Clear, 1 Gallon (128 fl oz)

When I first got this, I thought they sent me the wrong thing because the label is different than what is pictured. But then I realized it still says Weld-On, just in tiny print, so they must have changed the label.Also, when you first take off the screw-on lid, you'll see a metal piece covering the liquid. When I bought this in the past, there were no instructions on how to remove the metal separator, so I tried to get it off with pliers and ended up bending the mouth of the jar. But now it actually says 'cut this out' on the metal, so I took some metal cutters and made a hole big enough to get my hobby syringe in.Just be aware: this is a fast setting solvent. The old label pictured doesn't say it, but the new label does.If you've never worked with an acrylic solvent before, this is the consistency of water. It is meant to be used in a certain way, NOT like you'd use regular glue. Here's a YouTube video on how to work with plastic solvents: [..]

Wow this solution really bonds acrylic well! It's sooo cool to see it seep between the sheets and in seconds the pieces are as if they were made like that. I created a 40"X25"X11" terrarium for my kids and it held up very well! i AM VERY IMPRESSED WITH THIS PRODUCT! I'm creating another one for a friend and I think I'll be needing more so I am going to the same company to get more. THeir product came a day earlier than scheduled and for the price you can't beat this product! Very happy.

I spilled 1/2 of the cement just trying to open it. It says to cut the top off! (after you unscrew the cap, there is a sealed metal top) What am I supposed to use to cut the top off?! Is it assumed that the user has an angle grinder in their utensil drawer? I can't use a can opener or bottle opener to open it. I'm not going to drill it and get shards in the cement. The stuff seems to work once I was able to get to it. I am amazed it has been selling this long with a sealed metal top.Save yourself. Use IPS Weld-On 16 instead.

Being a builder of plastic model kits for most of my life, I'm always looking for the next big thing in the way of tools and technology to make my kit building life easier. When liquid cements specific to the hobby came out years ago, I was seriously chuffed. Infinitely better than the old, messy tube glues, in so many ways. Water thin, the cement will wick into the seam between parts, melt and actually weld the plastic together with light pressure, creating a nice, solid bond. Unfortunately over time the price for the liquid cement keeps going up. A one ounce bottle averages around $4, depending on brand. And as anyone in the hobby knows, a one ounce bottle doesn't last long. Long story short, I came upon the item being reviewed at at plumbing supply warehouse. As a cement for styrene plastic kits, it works just as the branded types do. Water thin. Reasonably quick hold time. And a strong, solid bond at full cure. And it can be had in a pint can for the same money, or less... than the equivalent amount of branded product.Two big drawbacks, however, which kept me from giving a five-star rating. One, the vapors are toxic. So, even though the can lists low VOC, good ventilation and or an appropriate respirator are essential. I have a small fan that I use on my hobby bench to keep air moving when I'm doing a quick bit of sticking together, as well as a fume and vapor rated respirator for more time intense glue-ups. You can pick one up at any major home improvement store...or Amazon....for a reasonable price. Really...how much is your health worth?And two, the product evaporates in a heartbeat, so a container with good seal is a must. The can the product comes in is a pain to open. It's sealed with a metal plug in the neck that either has to be cut out or otherwise punctured in order to use. I tend to just puncture and decant into a non-reactive plastic reagent bottle that I picked up at a local labware supply house. However, the first time I purchased this item, I just put a small sheet of kitchen plastic over the can and screwed the lid on, and this seemed to work ok, so whatever works for you, I suppose. The can lid actually comes with a plastic insert that may or may not provide a positive-enough seal, however I never really gave that a try.

When bonding materials permanently this does the job were others fail after a period of time. This product is a solvent that uses the plastics own properties. It essentially melts them together.It has a very thin composition so tight fitting parts and good application is a must. If you over apply you can damage the surface of your project.

When you screw of the top, you will find that it is sealed with an inner cap that says CUT THIS OUT. No clue is provides as to how that task is to be accomplished safely.There are all sorts of WARNINGS on the label including "This product is intended for use by skilled individuals at their own risk." Protective gear is needed. The label says its "suspected" of causing both genetic defects and cancer.

I have a set of 4 Ludwig Vistalite acrylic Tom Toms I've had since 1974. The largest drum is 14 inch. It has split down the entire side, partly down the seam and veering off about an inch from the seam. The split goes right through where the mounting plate attaches. I thought my vintage drum was toast. I was going to try super glue but instead did a google search and found this solvent. This doesn't glue acrylic but melts it together. I taped the outside of the drum to hold the seam in place. I used a pin point applicator to apply a fine stream of solvent along the seam. I dripped a drop on the drum but left it to evaporate and it did not mare the finish. Within 5 minutes the bond seemed strong. I left it set for 2 days and installed the hardware and head. You would never know the drum was ever split. I rock this drum every day! I would definitely recommend this to anyone needing to bond acrylic.