Rhino Power Bond Plus - Polymeric Sand for Pavers and Stone Joints up to a Maximum of 2 inches. (10 Pound, Ivory)

This is a great product. Just make sure you follow the directions! 1. Pressure wash your pavers, including in between the cracks. 2. Make sure you wash away the sediment from the pressure wash. If you have weeds, spray the cracks with weed killer. (even if the pressure washer took away the weeds, just pretend the root still exists and spray the cracks with weed killer after waiting 2 hours (so the water can drain away). 3. Make sure the pavers are COMPLETELY DRY. (I waited 24 hours with no rain). Just because your pavers "look dry" does not mean they ARE. Trust me - WAIT 24 hours! 4. The next day, in the morning, make sure there is no rain in the forecast. Scoop a 24 ounce pile of sand onto the pavers. Using an outdoor push broom, sweep the sand into the cracks. Do this diagonally! Do not brush the sand into the cracks vertically. 5. VERY IMPORTANT - Make sure you sweep ALL the sand OFF the paver and INTO the cracks. DO NOT LEAVE ANY SAND ON THE PAVER! 6. When done, use your hose and spray down the pavers - start from the top and spray to the bottom - following the line of water you are creating. You goal here is to wash away the SURFACE sand / dust that might still be on the surface of the paver and get the cracks very wet too. Water will drain down into the cracks with any sand residue. That is what you want. The water will "activate" the sand and start to harden it. At first, it will start like wet sand from the beach - very clumpy. (dont bother trying to sweep the wet sand - it will be a mess). *IF* you noticed an area where there was sand still on the paver, use a metal putty knife (for drywalling) and scrape it off. Also if you see problems in the cracks (sand piled up, not smooth, too much sand), you can use your finger, a flat head screw driver, the metal putty knife to smooth it out and make it look good. Within 30 minutes, the sand will get a consistency of paste. This is the drying and activation process and is completely normal. After 1-2 hours, the sand will start to harden. Again completely normal. You are now done for the day, and you should wait another 24 hours to the driveway to completely dry. 7. Next day. (if you live in a hot zone, do this process around 4pm. If you dont, you can start in the morning.). Get your favorite paver sealer. I used a wet look sealer and only did one coat. If you want a true wet look, you will need TWO coats of "wet look" sealer (allowing 2 hours of dry time between the 1st and 2nd coat). If you want a satin look, only use one coat of "wet look" sealer. I also used a "solvent based" sealer, not a "water based". Why? For me, solvent base just lasts longer - 5 years. Water based only lasts 2 years. Anyway, I use a roller and roll on the sealer. Some people use a pump spray and spray it on, others use a pump spray, spray it on, then follow behind with a roller to ensure even application. I just use a roller. I have a large driveway - 22 foot by 40 foot. (side note: This bag of sand covered the entire driveway) . Start at the top, and just like the sand, roll on the sealer (using a paint roller tray) diagonally. You goal is to ensure an even coat/coverage across the pavers AND the cracks. I need 6 gallons of my sealer to cover my 22x40 foot driveway for one coat. When you are done, you will need to stake your area off so people/car don't go on it, clean your pump sprayer with mineral spirits (unless you want to buy a new one), or remove your roller cover from the roller frame and toss it (if the roller cover dries to the roller frame - you will need to throw away your roller frame too). 8. note: anything that is on your driveway when you seal it - if it dries - will be there permanently. So make sure you pick up any stray leaves or debris as you roll. 9. Let the pavers dry (and cure). You need 2 days before you can park your car on the pavers. You can walk on the pavers after 5 hours though. 10. Remove the "keep off" stakes and enjoy your freshly sealed pavers!

A bit expensive but does the job

I used about 200lbs of this sand to fill my back patio. All the cracks, 90% of the time it worked well and hardened up and filled the cracks. The other 10% it didn’t harden up well and eroded out. Which means I’ll have to buy more to try and fix the last bit. It’s easy to install just sweep into the cracks and follow the directions on watering it. Kind of expensive but the finish is nice.

It worked great. As others have mentioned, the most important steps are when you remove the prior polymeric sand, you need to use a pressure washer to remove at least an 1 1/2 to 2 inches. You need to spray weed killer and then let it dry. Next I put the polymeric sand down. This is the first year I've been successful with nothing growing back and I've tried several times with other products. The only thing I didn't have was a blower to get off the polymeric sand. I did have a haze but that was still better for me than all the weeds I have growing through - but I know that for next time. It was easy to do and it's a good value especially compared to hiring someone.

I saw the mixed reviews, so I started with a test bag (10lbs) to use on a small paver section. The product from that bag worked great. It hardened up and is rock solid, and I am sure it will have long durability. After that success, I bought a 50lbs bag to use on a larger paver section. The product from this bag does not work. I followed the exact same process, and it did not harden. Not even a little bit. It is just loose sand that I can displace with a light finger rub. Buy with caution! I will add that the product from the 10lbs bag looked much different straight out of the bag. The 10lbs bag had many small black specs distributed in the sand. The 50lbs bag had much fewer and much larger black specs in the sand.