4K/60Hz HDMI to Component Converter with Scaler Function, HDMI to YPbPr Converter Support 480i/576i Component Out for HD Devices to Display on CRT TV with YPbPr

Wanted a YPbPr+L/R converter to connect my Sony UPB-X800M2 DVD/Blu-Ray HDMI output to my old Sony FD Trinitron KV-27FS12 CRT color TV. To do that, I needed a converter that could downscale to 480i. I saw a YouTube demo of the EASYCEL and wasn't too impressed, but looked like it might work. I plugged everything in, turned on my TV and DVD, and started clicking the resolution button, until after about 5 or 6 clicks, a home screen finally appeared on my TV. At that point I put in a disk and hoped for the best. It was AMAZING!!! Incredibly crystal clear image and audio! The EASYCEL is well-made, easy to use, high quality, at a great price. Comes with power supply but needed to purchase the audio/video cables separately. If you have a similar need to connect and convert your high tech video player to a low tech TV, you might try the EASYCEL. I couldn't be more satisfied with the results, performance, and quality, and highly recommend this product!

I purchased this for use with an old Sony LCD projection TV. This TV has an old style DVI input I used with a DVI to HDMI cable, but that input stopped working. However the old TV has plenty of component inputs. This HDMI converter has worked great with both an older Panasonic blu-ray player, a Firestick, and a more contemporary Sony UBP-X800 blu-ray player. The image scales very nicely and the picture looks great. I have the converter plugged into a 'smart' power strip with the TV as the master device, turning off TV turns off the converter as well (the converter has no switch as noted in other comments). The power brick cord length is a little shorter that it should be, but with the power strip I'm able to get everything comfortably set up.

I have an old Sony 38' Trinitron with a 4:3 aspect ratio. Since I cut my ties with cable, I went with an Amazon Firestick. Of course there is no HDMI input on the TV, only DVI, Component, and Composite, so I needed a converter to convert the Firestick HDMI output to Component. I chose this one because it seemed to have the best reviews out of all of them ... none of them are really good. The first one lasted a year, the second one I had to return because the on-screen-display wouldn't turn off after a few seconds, and this one seems to be working so far, although it's only a few days old. It works fine ... we'll see for how long. I can get a 4:3 aspect ratio by toggling the resolution button, a good picture and it was easy to setup. The only problem, which is unavoidable, is that all of these converters are made in China and you get the unreliability that you've come to expect. Isn't anything made in America anymore??? I've given it a 5 star review, but that may change depending on how long this one lasts.

I bought this because it advertised 480p and I wanted a cable to connect a PC to a Trinitron TV. I am unable to get my GPU to output 480p (640x480), the lowest is 600p (800x600). However, the converter reads the input signal as 1080p (1920x1080), no matter what. And outputs only 16:9 resolutions. So, 480p is 720x480. But… my TV reads this signal as a 4:3 signal and compresses the image horizontally. Fortunately, I was able to correct this in my GPU drivers (AMD) by enabling GPU scaling and setting it to not maintain aspect ration. I’m not positive, but I think this means my GPU outputs a stretched 800x600 output over a1080p signal. It ends up looking pretty good on the TV. The best resolution is 800x600. I thought maybe higher resolutions might benefit from downsampling, but 1024p and up has a lot of artifacts. But, you will need to manipulate the signal to get 4:3 to display properly. There is one final criticism: the unit has poor electrical shielding from its own power supply. It has a light snow that other inputs do not carry. Even worse, this interference is great enough that it affects other signals. If I am using the adjacent component input, it picks up the electric noise from this converter. This means I have to unplug it when using other connections. For the price, I can live with a slightly dirty signal. However, it would be nice to have a power switch, so it would be more convenient to disable it. Otherwise it works well for $30-ish. I haven’t tested any delay. I don’t specifically intend to use this connection for gaming, mostly watching older 4x3 content. But, I will test it in a couple days. My TV is a HighScan variant, which means it does super sampling which can add14-31ms of latency. There is a lot of conflicting information about when this is enabled in my TV. From my own testing, it does not apply HighScan to 480p signals over component and there is practically no latency. All my 6th generation consoles are snappy and responsive, noticeably when compared to newer LCD and OLED TVs; button presses are instantaneous. If there is any delay over this connection, it won’t be from the TV. I will update when I try. For what you pay, you can’t be disappointed, but you need to be aware of its draw-backs before you decide to use this particular unit.

I purchased this converter after discovering that Verizon's upgraded Fios set top box was not going to work with our existing TV setup. The new Fios box only has an HDMI output cable but our existing setup uses component video and RCA cables for surround sound and a whole house music system. The converter is self-explanatory in terms of setup. The HDMI comes in and the component and RCA cables go out to whatever equipment is hooked up using these cables. There is also a short power cord to plug in. I was thrilled to find out that the converter works, which allows us to migrate to the latest Fios box (Verizon tech suggested this solution though in general the company has been a nightmare to work with on this upgrade). Make sure you buy the right product: this converts from HDMI to component, not vice versa. Given that this converter allows us to use Fios STB with our existing AV setup , I think the price is reasonable. We'll see how long it lasts.

Garbage, only outputs 16:9 even when the input is 4:3, output signal randomly cuts out at times, tons of latency, screen tearing, and flickering. Totally worthless.

I will be reviewing the EASYCEL 4K HDMI to Component converter. The device came in relatively generic packaging, although this is not entirely unusual, considering this seems to be a common trend. Looking through the manual that came with the converter, there is a decent list of resolutions the device supports. The list of documented resolutions for the HDMI input are 480p, 576p, 600p, 720p, 768p, 800p, 900p, 960p, 1024p, 1080i, 1080p, 1200p, and 2160p (4K). For the component output, the documented resolutions are 480i, 576i, 480p, 576p, 720p, 1080i, and 1080p. Upon extensive testing, there are two undocumented resolutions that are supported via the HDMI input, that being 480i and 576i. With this in mind, there is a major flaw when running 480i or 576i signals over HDMI. For whatever reason, there appears to be field shifting that occurs after a certain amount of time. Resulting in interlaced fields shifting up, then back down. Visual results may vary depending on the display you use. On a cathode ray tube display, the fields will appear as they should at first, then after a period of time, the fields will shift, causing the picture to appear fuzzy due to incorrect field rendering (see video). On a modern flat screen display, the fields do not show up correctly at all regardless, resulting in a very distorted interlaced picture. The field shifting issue also remains despite the distortions on modern displays. You can use line doubling techniques to somewhat mitigate these issues, however this only works well for cathode ray tube displays, and doesn't mitigate the field shifting quirk. This also doesn't fix any of the distortions seen on a modern display. This unfortunately means that majority of devices that only work up to 480i or 576i over HDMI are useless to utilize in tandem with this converter. 240p signals over HDMI are also not accepted by this converter at all, and will drop the signal entirely. If you decide to use 480i, 576i, or 1080i as your component output, it's best that your HDMI signals are progressive, as this device shines better with those signals. Interestingly enough, this converter not only lets you downscale HDMI input signals to lower component output resolutions, but you can upscale from a lower HDMI input resolution to a higher component output resolution as well. Realistically though, it's not ideal for upscaling HDMI signals over component with this device, especially since the only displays that can really take advantage of this are modern displays anyways (modern televisions particularly have better upscaling techniques than what this device offers). I don't have a 2160p (4K) capable device on hand to test the validity of the documented product specification claims, however, based on what the packaging and the manual states, I'm going to guess that it would work. Although, it is stated that HDCP 2.2 has to be disabled in order for that resolution to work (I will see what I can figure out in this regard at some point, and update this review). YCbCr and RGB color ranges over HDMI signals are supported, as well as 4:2:0, 4:2:2, and 4:4:4 chroma subsampling from my tests. One thing worth noting though, changing the HDMI RGB color space between limited range and full range does nothing for the component output, as the output is automatically forced to use full range color. Modern displays automatically calibrate the color space to be limited range, that way you don't have overblown colors / color crushing, but this simply doesn't exist on cathode ray tube displays. As such, you'll likely have to compensate with your brightness and contrast configurations to mitigate some of the color quirks. As for latency, I don't have a proper way to test this, however, based on my experiences with the converter, there isn't enough to make the experience unusable or unplayable, even in tandem with a modern display. I feel like I should touch on aspect ratios, since so many people seem to have the wrong idea of what's going on. Majority of modern displays are designed to work according to two ratio standards, 4:3 and 16:9. Despite the odd resolutions and standards of many source devices connected to these types of displays, you will always render the contents in one of the ratios mentioned. 480i, 576i, 480p, and 576p are standardized as 4:3 aspect ratio oriented resolutions (said resolutions are classified as standard definition). 720p, 1080i, 1080p, and 2160p (4K) are standardized as 16:9 aspect ratio oriented resolutions (said resolutions are classified as high definition). Upscaling standard definition content to a high definition resolution will always yield horizontal stretching, because 4:3 is not a high definition aspect ratio standard. This is why pillar boxing exists (black bars on the sides), that way one can preserve the 4:3 aspect ratio in a 16:9 high definition environment. The only exception to this is widescreen content, as naturally that content is generally designed for the 16:9 aspect ratio as-is. Devices like the RetroTink use similar techniques when upscaling standard definition content for high definition environments. You won't find stuff like this with regular signal converters, at the very most, you might get an aspect ratio toggle and that's it. Worst case, your modern display generally offers aspect ratio options anyways. If all you plan to use are progressive HDMI signals with this device, then this honestly is pretty solid, especially if everything you run is 480p or higher. Otherwise, if you are like me and have a combination of interlaced and progressive HDMI signals in the chain from various devices, this device will create some problems. If you need 240p capabilities, then you definitely shouldn't use this device, it doesn't support 240p signals over HDMI as stated earlier.

I'm using this converter to connect my Raspberry Pi 400 to my CRT and for that purpose it works great. I'm pleased with the range of input resolutions and frame rates it supports, which is more than advertised. I'm using it with an input resolution of 800x600/60p to get a bit more screen real estate. It scales it to my TV's native 480i with no issues. Picture quality is excellent; no complaints there. Only thing I wish it had was an aspect ratio/zoom control for use with HD sources on an SD set or vice versa. If you have a 16:9 source on a 4:3 TV, the picture will be stretched vertically to fit the screen. If you wanted that, you would have to get a GBS-C or something similar. There is another adapter going for the same price that does have zoom capability but half the reviews were for a completely different product. I wish Amazon would crack down on that. Other reviewers have complained about latency, but since my use case is SD media consumption, I've not had an issue. It is worth noting that most modern TVs have a couple frames worth of input lag anyway. I have seen some concerns about reliability in other reviews; will update the review if/when it fails.

Good product..l not as bright as regular HDTV and sometimes has a little ghosting. Adequate for our requirements.

Tenía duda que pudiera escalar a señal 480i (interlazado) para TV CRT. Estoy utilizando un Google ChromeCast Full HD y me entrega una señal de salida de 1440x480i en un CRT Sony Trinitron 29", y es excepcional la calidad eb brillo, contraste y principalmente en color. Hice algunos ajustes en las configuraciones de servicio de mi televisor, y he logrado casi un aspect ratio 4:3 nativo.

It does not output all resolution described in the ads. The only ones that I can see from my testing are: 480i(60hz), 480p(60hz), 576i(50hz), 576p(50hz), 720p(60Hz), 1080p(60Hz). It does not output 720p at 50Hz and 1080i at 50Hz.

Funcionó perfecto para NES mini que era el objetivo, aunque también se probó con una ps3 con sus juegos de ps2, eso sí , el monitor o crt que usen debe aceptar 480i que es lo menos que tiene de salida este dispositivo