Kleen-Bore Black Magic 2OZ. (60ML.)

After using a local store bought bluing product(not Black Magic) on a refurb job that turned out uneven and light grey, and the tube ended up a different color than the barrel... I ordered Black Magic. THIS STUFF WORKS!1. I prepped the metal down bare, then polished the bare metal with 0000(quad)steel wool.2. I used rust and blue remover on the bare metal til the rags werent coming out black anymore(they turned black even on bare metal)3. I heated two large pots of water til boiling on the stove.4. I used denatured alcohol on the de-rusted and de-blued metal til the rags were clean after wiping the metal.5. I poured a small amount of black magic into one of my correll(glass) bowls.6. I filled a pan large enough for the parts, with the almost boiling hot water.I dipped the parts in the water for a while(2 mins) then removed and patted dry with a clean towel.7. I dipped a small piece of rag into the Black Magic and applied with long even strokes, and immediately the metal started to rust(this is normal for really good bluing). I let each piece sit with the bluing on for 1 minute then dipped and rinsed in the hot water again, gently rubbing the used, rust colored bluing off.8. I took the rinsed parts and dried again, then lightly buffed the rinsed pieces with the 0000 steel wool just enough to show a light sheen.9. I repeated the process 4 times and the parts came out darkish.When I knew i was done i applied Hoppes no 9 oil and the metal soaked it up and turned black! Not dark grey... BLACK! They look beautiful and my wife said they almost looked painted. They were dark enough to match the black plastic cap of the hoppes oil.I am severely impressed with this product. I will never use another bluing product, ever again. WELL WORTH THE MONEY!I still have half the bottle for touch ups if needed and i noticed myself thinking about other things to blue :)You wont go wrong with Black Magic... For a visual, look up midwayUSA's how to blue a barrel on youtube. I followed his lead after watching the video several times.I was intimidated for about half the process, but now im confident enough to do it again no problem.I blued a Mossberg 500 barrel and magazine tube.

Blued an old Remington Model 11 that once belonged to my grandfather. Product worked great but you must follow the directions. Steel wool or sand with emery cloth (soaked in either oil or wd40) the area (s) you intend to blue down to the clean metal. Heat the area with a torch, heat gun or hair dryer then clean the meal with a degreaser or alcohol. Dry, then apply Black Magic with a small clean cloth over area. Wait a minute or so then wash the bluing off under running hot water in the sink. Dry with paper towel then repeat the blue, water, and towel several times to darken the metal. After you get the desired color dry with towel and let stand for several minutes until dry. Then apply a good coat of oil (I used 3 in 1) with a clean cloth and let stand for several hours repeating the coat of oil as the metal dries. I then applied a even coat of Hoppes gun grease to the areas blued and let it sit on the gun for several hours. Wipe clean with a clean cloth and let sit. Bluing should remain shiny. If not, reapply grease and let stand then check after several hours. The oil and grease activates the bluing to give the metal a lasting color.

This is a great cold gun blue. I received it within the time allotted, but when it arrived, I had no idea what it was. I have ordered several items, getting ready for hunting season, and several items are made by Safariland. When this bottle arrived, the supplier glued their own label across the bottle which covered the product information and the instructions. When I tried to remove their label to see if it was bluing or cleaner, the original label tore off with added shipping label. I do not like chemicals on my gun shelf that are not properly labeled, for safety sake. I have compared the bottle with on line pictures and this is bluing, so I will relabel the bottle, but this should not of happened. I will order else where next time.

I blued an entire pistol with this that previously was done with Birchwood Casey cold blue. It took 3 coats compared to Birchwood Casey's 6 coats. It seems to be a bit more durable too but time will tell. Many early Mauser 1910/34 pistols were cold blued but this is a 1910/14 decked out with 1910/34 grips . This bluing matched the original remaining blue under the grips when I put on 4 coats. The pistol was heavily corroded on it's right side so it's lost it's roll marks that were mostly illegible anyway. This product turned rust orange during the process almost reminding me of old rust bluing. I wonder what's in it besides selenium. Take your time and follow the directions. If you don't wipe it down thoroughly with the 0000 steel wool the black can stick a bit heavy. I had to use some 600 grit Emory paper to smooth those areas and then repeat the process. This didn't happen with the Birchwood Casey but it might take 10 or 12 coats of the Birchwoood Casey which has served me well with touch ups. I've attached a photo of my results with a little white metal bling since it is no longer original and is now just a fantastic little .25 shooter.

The product arrived with solids in the bottom that will not dissolve in the solution. Despite shaking and shaking and, did I mention a lot of shaking? The solids won't dissolve. Based on the date code at the bottom, it is almost three years old. Can't return and can't get a replacement.