KBS Coatings 52000 Cycle Tank Sealer Kit, Complete Kit - Seals Up To 5 Gallon Tank, Lightly Pigmented Silver

My bike is almost 40 years old and I'm at least the 3rd owner so I'm no stranger to finding and fixing "old bike problems." Last season the carbs started flooding intermittently. The bike would start to miss on one cylinder, and I'd look down to see fuel dripping out of one of the bowl vent hoses (which run to the underside of the bike). This usually happened when I started the bike to warm it up so I was able to shut it down with only a few drops of fuel on my garage floor, but it once happened while I was riding. I had to limp it home with fuel dripping past the exhaust under me. I got it home fine but I was sweating the entire time. Over the winter I pulled the fuel system apart. I found red rust particles everywhere, and the fuel filter hadn't caught them all. The tank had been lined by a previous owner and I couldn't see any rust-- until I turned it upside down. The coating on the top of the tank was delaminating, leaving behind a crusty, scaly mess that was running through the entire fuel system and causing the needle valves to bind up. Getting the old sealer out was a chore. I alternately filled the tank with boiling water and acetone until I could scrape or pull most of it out, then I filled the tank with wood screws and more acetone and shook it to loosen up what was left. I probably spent 2 weeks or more soaking and cleaning the tank to remove the old sealer, and I missed a couple of small spots. It would have to do. The KBS kit was simple to use. There's a degreaser, a rust converter that seems to be mostly phosphoric acid, and the actual coating, which is like a very thick silver paint. I cleaned and derusted the tank, then let it dry. As soon as it was dry, it began to flash rust again. I ended up derusting it 3 times, but no matter what, I would get a small amount of flash rust as the tank dried. Finally I decided that there was no good way to prevent it so when the tank was once again dry, I poured in the coating. Yes, I did this over a small amount of flash rust. Yes, this is risky. No, I don't recommend it. No, I haven't had any delamination or other problems. I spent the better part of 2 days rotating the tank to make sure all the surfaces were coated. I would change the orientation every 15 minutes, then every hour, then every few hours. I kept doing this until the coating fully solidified, which it did within 48 hours or so. Every time I repositioned the tank, I made sure to blow compressed air through the tank vent to make sure the coating didn't plug it. THIS IS IMPORTANT. Do not allow the tank vent to become clogged or you may have all sorts of fuel delivery problems later on, including fuel starvation and flooding. Assuming your tank hasn't been coated before, count on spending a full weekend doing this. I'd count on spending Saturday cleaning, derusting, and drying the tank, then wait until Sunday morning to pour in the sealant. That way you have a full day to rotate the tank around before the sealant starts to solidify. If your tank has been coated, removing it will be a chore. If I had to do it again, I would either sandblast the inside of the tank, or I would use an industrial paint stripper. I didn't do either because I wanted to save the paint on the outside of the tank, but I'm on the fence whether it was worth it. Because it was winter, the tank sat around curing for a few weeks before I was able to reassemble the bike and take it for a test ride. By that time, the coating had cured to a rock-hard, very durable finish. The coating covered bare steel, some light flash rust, and a couple of spots where the old coating refused to come off. I have now run a few tanks of fuel through the bike and so far the coating is holding strong. My bike is fully faired so it traps a lot of heat, and when the fuel level begins to drop the engine puts a lot of heat into the tank. So far, no delamination and no problems. We'll see what happens long-term but so far I'm pretty happy with this coating. The metallic silver gives the inside of the tank a clean, uniform look, so it's easy to spot any problems if you periodically shine a flashlight in there (which I do). Judging from the way a few drops of spilled coating adhered to the cardboard the tank was on, I won't have any problems with delamination-- it sticks TIGHT. This isn't the first gas tank that I've coated, but it's the first time I've used the kit from KBS. Last time I used POR15, which worked well on an automotive tank that I did for a friend. This stuff appears to be very similar and just as good for a less expensive price. Long-term durability is still unknown but looks promising. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this kit to someone looking to refurbish their motorcycle tank.

This stuff works great. I used it on a Honda 200x tank and it sealed it up good from rust spots and leaks along some of the seams. I purchased a 2 kit for a Honda 350x. Opened the box up and found that the "Blast" bottle was leaking. The cap was not tight. It leaked enough to soak the instructions and make them stick to the inside of the box, they simply tore apart trying to remove them. Luckily I've done the process before and there are also youtube videos available. I didn't open the box after getting it delivered until about 15 days later. I suggest opening it to at least inspect the contents as soon as it arrives.

This IS the method if you have a rusty tank. It worked so well on my tank, now my motorcycle is running great. It was also very easy, just takes some time. I would definitely recommend saving all the fluids and reusing them, I’ve reused the “second step” so many times and it still works great.

Good instructions. Seems to be rock hard and applied great. 4 out of 5 stars bc time will tell if it deserves 5 stars for being good or not. Make sure to give it 96 hours to cure properly.

I used this product to seal a 1973 Honda CB750 gas tank with significant, in some cases scaled, rust all over the inside of the tank. The tank had some very old, stale gas in it as well. I took an extra step that I'm sure the manufacturer would not recommend which is to use PineSol to remove the old stale gas and give the KBS cleaner a running start. After I put the PineSol in with hot water and shook it around, I rinsed it out and used the KBS cleaner exactly as directed. I then used a gallon of Evapo-Rust (again, I'm sure against the KBS manufacturer's directions). After I rinsed the Evapo-Rust out, it immediately flash rusted, so I used the KBS Rust Blast to treat the surface rust and leave a phosphate finish. This worked quite well, but again immediately flash rusted. The flash rust was concerning and unexpected, but it didn't affect the overall result. I dried the tank as specified (hair drier worked for me, but don't bake the paint if the paint is still good). Once the tank was dry, I used the KBS sealer directly over the flash rust, distributing it around the tank by swirling the tank for nearly an hour as directed, then draining it. I let it set and cure for two weeks, then added fuel. To date it has not peeled or crinkled, and it has completely covered the rust. The coating is pretty thin, to the point you can see the rust colored metal through it, but it sealed the tank and has prevented further rust. I admit, I was skeptical, and did a couple of things outside the directions (I don't recommend this, for the record), but it does really work. Bottom line, I pretty much did exactly what the manufacturer specified, with a couple of my own steps in it, and came out with a very satisfactory result. I would recommend this product, as long as you clean the tank thoroughly, and make sure the sealant cures long enough before you put gasoline in it.

This is a quality product and works as it should

Worked great! Make sure you follow the directions exactly

Used on a Dennis Kirk 3.1 Harley tank . Followed the instructions to the letter.product looked amazing BUT day 3 curing a spot shown thru like rust . KBS tells me it sometimes dries clear, my concern was there was zero rust in that spot and that I have used their cleaning and rust protection already in previous steps . . Day 5 of curing a raised tunnel on bottom of tank right where the rust is. Product did not adhere properly. KBS said add another can of sealant. I did product went into the raised area. Spot did not seal again. And bike sat as they received in front of fan for 7 days . Same thing only 2coat did not help. KBS said use their stripping agent to start over. I did , I went as far as buying air craft Methyl stripping agent too. The stripping agent just didn’t do it , I added more and then used their KBs version stripper that is way less potent. Long story short tank ruined. Over 100 dollars worth of product from KBS. I will say this I prepped, The product looked great but it would not adhere to part of the tank where it curved upwards, while at the same time the bottom has a little gully running from front of tank to the back , it produced a thin area and just wouldn’t hold. KBS did answer the phone and did reply to texts . It felt as tho it was a blame game a couple times they responded but I texted not here for blame I’m here for troubleshooting and advice. I think dumping the second van was a horrible mistake but it’s their plan resolution. Once the stripping solvents started to lift it I could see this would take much longer, more product and a very long time fishing out the pieces of product. in the end I’m buying another new bike tank, and simply not putting anything in it , maybe seal pinholes from the outside, product worked good and seams and pen holes .

Fast shipping. Really cleans the rust. Take time and follow instructions. I ordered a second set just in case I don’t have enough. Quality products.

Lo usé para eliminar óxido del tanque de una Suzuki Boulevard 2007 y funcionó perfectamente aunque mi tanque era un completo desastre (ver fotos adjuntas). El tanque dificulta el drenado, por lo que recomiendo comprar sifones para eliminar el agua y limpiadores previos al sellador. Es muy importante limpiar, limpiar y volver a limpiar y luego secar y volver a secar y, de ser necesario, repetir y repetir. Este trabajo requiere mucha paciencia y tiempo, no puedes hacerlo con prisas. Recomiendo dejar 24 horas el desengrasante con tornillos para madera adentro y agitarlo con frecuencia. Debes revisar muy bien las uniones y zonas de difícil acceso para verificar que no queden gomas de gasolina vieja que, aunque no lo creas, es difícil de desprender. El desoxidante actúa en solo unos minutos, pero también recomiendo agitarlo con tornillos. Ya que lo retires, es necesario secar muy bien. Yo utilicé una secadora para el cabello. Apareció casi al instante óxido flash (unas ligeras capas como de polvo color óxido), pero no representan problema; puedes sellar sobre esto. Debido a que el tanque no permite el drenado sencillo, una vez que viertas el sellador dentro, es importante moverlo mucho para evitar charcos o acumulaciones en zonas específicas, ya que no podrás “tirar” el exceso. Yo adquirí una cámara endoscopio de las más baratas para revisar el interior a detalle. No se obsesionen revolviendo el sellador, nunca termina de mezclarse el color plata con el color negro, pero no hay problema por eso. Con revolverlo lentamente durante unos cinco minutos será suficiente. Ya dentro del tanque se eliminan los contrastes de pintura y deja un color plata bastante estético. Yo dejé secar por 8 días con la intención de que el curado no falle y funcionó perfecto. LA CLAVE ESTÁ EN LA LIMPIEZA PREVIA, OBSESIÓNATE CON LA LIMPIEZA PREVIA Y CON EL TIEMPO DE CURADO. Si tienes alguna duda adicional, escribe un correo al soporte de KBS; me contestaron en minutos y puedes enviar fotos para que te orienten. Ahí fue donde me dijeron que el óxido flash no es un problema. No pierdas tu tiempo enviando mensajes al celular que viene ahí; jamás obtuve respuesta.

prenez votre temps ne sautez pas d’étape et tout va bien aller

Excellent

Excelente producto cumple con su funcion de reparación y cubrir la superficie