Piaa85110 115db 400HZ + 500HZ Sports Horn

Surprisingly loud!Holding each in my hand & applying 13 volts one at a time they are a bit louder than the FARBIN I also have.They pull about 2-2.5 amps and the farbin mentioned pull about 4 amps.I'm using relay to be safe and running all 4 at once!But It's obvious though you should not need a relay if running only the piaa pair.I have the 400 - 500hz which is perfect & plenty alarming! If you choose 500 - 600hz ppl say it sounds like a European sports car "not what I want"The problem with going too far off the map in sound frequency (ie: using a train airhorn etc) is that the other driver will be confused as to which vehicle it's coming from.So imo good to stay fairly close in pitch but just go louder.The stock horns on a RAV4 are a joke maybe 50 percent bigger than a silver dollar!This is an easy solution without messing with relays.....(only 5 amps together) you may could run both these and stock in parallel but you'll be close to your max amps of 10 without a relay.Some have used a 15 amp fuse running 4 together and only using in short burst may be ok otherwise your chancing melting your wiring harness unless you keep your 10 amp fuse. Those wires are pretty tiny that run to the horn on a RAV4 !

Purchased these to replace the wimpy horns on my Subaru Forester. They sound great! Went from sounding like a squeaky toy to a proper car/truck!

I assume from the other reviews of this product here and around the net that these will fit and work on most cars, but my review will focus on my experience installing them on my '97 Jeep Wrangler.My twelve year old Jeep Wrangler horns sounded pathetic. I don't know if they sound like that when new (I bought my '97 in 2005), but even at seven years of age, those horns sounded weak and were pretty embarrassing to use.I considered going with the higher frequency version of these horns, but after listening to both frequencies on Youtube videos (just seach "PIAA 115db"), I decided that a real American Jeep (well, made in Canada) needed a "REAL-American" sounding horn, so I stuck with this classic sounding horn, rather than going with the sound of the higher frequency version option (which would be a good choice for import vehicles).I'd say that this horn has pushed my horn volume to at least stock, if not 10-20% louder than stock, of a fresh Jeep Wrangler horn (which my neighbor has on her 2009 Wrangler).Install/Technical Notes:Assuming you have some basic hand tool skills, have a a couple of pair of vice grips, a wire striper/crimper, a volt-meter, a few .5"-1" long, 1/4"ish wide bolts with nuts & washers and perhaps a 14-16ga female wire connector splay ends, you should be able to swap these out with your current Jeep horns in about and hour. I'm sorry, but It's been a while so I don't recall exactly what came with the horn kit, but I think it included a few auto-crimps that might work as well, if your not willing to do the job "right", speaking as an off-roading jeep "fan-boy" who has built-up his jeep correctly with his own two hands.I noticed that the horn body widths, as well as the horn mouths, were moderately larger than the stock horns on the Jeep, but they were the same basic design (that's good news). The horn mouths also had plastic sheilds covering the opening which the stock horns didn't have, but that seems like a good idea to keep the new horn internals from getting splashed with water over the next decade of use. Though I was concerned about how I was going to mount these to start with, I found that I could use the existing horn mounting brackets of my Jeep if I just bent the horn brackets (those that are on these new horns) 180 degrees back onto themselves at the middle of horn using two pairs of vice grips (The original Jeep horns do not have that bracket you see sticking out on the stock photo of the horn, but instead simply mount directly to the Jeep's horn mounting brackets at the center of the stock horn body via a post and nut solution, which is not doable with these new horns due to a shorter and wider post (ah heck, see the photos I posted if you can't figure out what the heck I'm talking about!)After insuring I was getting the power and ground wires connected to right posts on the horns, they worked just fine on the first try. You don't really need to remove horn mounting brackets from the Jeep like I ended up doing; you'll just need to adjust the angle of the new horns a bit to insure that they don't make contact with any of the surround jeep parts before you tighten them down.As I recall, the instructions which came with these horns were very clear and provided different wiring diagrams for different potential wiring solutions. This made it very easy to figure out that I did not need to add a new ground wire for the Jeep... just use the two wires per each horn as the stock jeep horns use.While these horns do not provide an air-horn level of volume, they do provide the same general design and mounting as the stock Jeep horns, with the same or better durability and volume than stock, without the hassle and time required to install less durable air-horns and compressors. That makes this a true winner solution for REAL Jeeps used for their designed purpose of off-pavement travel.Highly Recommended for Jeep Wranglers!

They are loud enough for a direct replacement. You don't need to run power or add a relay. They are about double the size of the stock horns in my Subaru. Tone is much improved over the stock speakers, which sounded like a toy car.I ran into some slight issues installing these:I had to remove the bumper to access the low frequency stock horn.The horns were too big to fit in the stock mounting locations. I had to swap the high and low horns, due to the shape (they are different sizes and mirrored). The horn under the headlight had to be mounted backward (doesn't matter, they just need to face downward). Anyhow, I have the high frequency horn under the headlight mounted back facing forward. The low frequency horn is by the radiator, which I bent the mounting tab to clear the radiator. They actually sound better swapped, lowering the overall tone.Stock horns had one spade connector for positive only. I added two ground wires using a ring connector to a body bolt, and then two spade connectors. It is easy to find ground everywhere. OEM spade connectors fit, but I had to make an extension for the horn under the headlight. Overall, fairly easy install. No stock wiring was changed.I am satisfied with the horns, they are quite a bit louder (50% or so), and sound much better.

A true upgrade over stock horns