❄️ Stay cool, drive legendary — upgrade your Corvette’s heart with next-level cooling!
This 3-row aluminum radiator, designed for 2005-2012 Chevy Corvette C6 V8 variants, features a 17.25'' x 23.5'' core with an integrated oil cooler. Engineered for 30-45% improved cooling efficiency over stock units, it boasts durable TIG-welded end tanks and a one-year warranty, ensuring reliable, high-performance thermal management for your iconic ride.
Manufacturer | CoolingMaster Direct |
Brand | ENGINKUHLER |
Model | Radiator |
Item Weight | 14.74 pounds |
Package Dimensions | 31.5 x 23.62 x 7.48 inches |
Country of Origin | China |
Item model number | ECM-R-3637 |
Exterior | ĺŠ ĺ·Ą |
Manufacturer Part Number | ECM-R-3691 |
B**N
Direct Replacement, fairly easy to install
Bought this to replace my cracked radiator in my 2005 Corvette.It actually went in much easier than it was to take the old one out.The radiator is thicker than the original, but that didn't affect its ease of installation.One of the Transmission cooler inlets started leaking during the initial test drive, but that was easily fixed with a wrench as it just needed to be tightend a little bit more on the bottom line (about a half turn).Put about 100 miles on it do far, and it does run noticeably cooler than the factory aluminum and plastic. At speed it runs just below 180°, that's not even hot enough to trigger the factory thermostat (rated at 187°) right now I am running it with out a thermostat as replacing the radiator provided a great opportunity to flush my cooling system. I plan to flush it 3 times , twice with a radiator flush and once running just distilled water to rinse our the system, before putting in the new thermostat and filling up with DexCool.I was skeptical buying this product as there was only one review, and couldn't find anything online about the brand, but I figured the only reputable option for an aluminum radiator for my vette costs over $700, and this option was only $20-$30 more than an oem replacement that was still plastic (the one I'm replacing lasted only 4 years as I had it replaced during COVID, and it failed the same way as the original via a crack in the plastic or separation between the aluminum and plastic) If this lasts more than 4 years, than it will definitely be better than the remaining replacement. As of right now I will say it is better due to it running cooler (after 4 hours of driving).Tips for replacing the radiator:Remove the intakeRemove the upper radiator support.Remove the nits holding the reservoir (2 nuts) so that the reservoir and it's attached hose can be moved out of the wayDisconnect the fan connector, and pull the fan out first its held to the radiator with 2 bolts, and just slides up and out.Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses (this proved to be the biggest pain in the ass, especially the lower radiator hose, I ended up just cutting it off so I had more room after the radiator was out to remove from the thermostat housing, that didnt go as planned so I took of the housing and was able to get the last piece off away from the car)The trans cooler lines are secured by a plastic ring, and a metal c-ish ring (a cross between a 'w' and a 'c') and can be removed with a small flathead screwdriver, the ones typically used for computers.You will need something to plug up the trans cooler lines because it will leak, especially the bottom one, I used the finger tips of a latex glove (powderless) and a rubber band.Mine is not equipped with an engine oil cooler, and neither is this product.Now the next part was kind of tricky.The AC condenser is attached to the front of the radiator, you could remove that plastic cover to make it easier, however I did not look up how to do that and just worked around it.What makes this tricky is unlike the fan, the radiator will not slide up and out of the top because the condenser is hooked in to the radiator.So what I had to do was jack up the car so I could get underneath, and I had to push the entire unit up, and while holding it up I had to pull the condenser down so that the tabs would slide out, I had to do that to both sides.Once you confirm the tabs on both sides, top and bottom are free from the condenser, move all the hoses towards the engine, if you loosened the reservoir you should be able to flip it over the intake manifold and out of the way.Pull the radiator up and out, just be careful not to snag anything and go slowly, especially on the passenger side as the ac lines run right by the radiator, and the power steering lines will be really close to the radiator as well.To install the new radiator, attach the fan to it first. Make sure the tabs are seated in the radiator properly. Swap over the rubber bushings on the top and bottom of the old radiatorPut the whole assembly in and let it rest, it will go in much easier than taking it out.You're going to want to make sure the tabs on the condensor are lined up with the radiator.You will have to lift the condensor up enough to clear the inserts on the radiator and push the radiator towards the condenser Bot top and bottom, of they are lined up it should be relatively easy, of not it will be a bit of a pain but not too bad.Once you confirm both the cindensor and the fan are secured, you want to make sure the whole assembly is seated into the lower radiator support or cradle. There are two holes, one on each side thay the bottom rubber bushings sit into.Once that is installed, install your radiator hoses first, some WD-40 helped me out alot (I was installing new radiator hoses so the weren't as soft as my old ones.I would start with the lower radiator hose as the hose clamp that goes to the radiator was a bitch to get on with everything in the way ( I did this hose last and i spent well over and hour to try and finagle it on, in the end I gave up, left the ring in the middle and bought the screw type hose clamp, and even thay took me 30 minutes to tighten properly because of the trans lines being in the way)Once the lower hose is connected and secured install your trans lines. Make sure the metal clip is seated properly, pull the hose to make sure it won't pop out, replace the plastic rings, install the remaining hoses. Return the reservoir and secure it back into place.Be sure to run the heater full blast after filling the system to ensure all the air is flushed out of the system and tip it off as needed.I would use this as an opportunity to "super flush" you're cooling system. Search "super flush cooling system" into youtube and ChrisFix has a really good and detailed tutorial on how to do that. My vette has almost 240,000 miles on it, and when the radiator cracked I used a couple of bottles of radiator stop leak to get me home, so I decided now was the best time to try this super flush out as opposed to a regular flush.
R**T
Aluminum core and side tanks , great original replacement
Installed easy, fit well, made much stronger then the original one with plastic tanks , would give this radiator a A+ overall great!
Trustpilot
2 days ago
2 months ago