Stays and Corsets: Historical Patterns Translated for the Modern Body

This book is perfect for a costume maker or pattern cutter. Having completed a degree in costume construction myself and now working in the industry, I find this book incredibly easy to follow and am very much looking forward to using it. It has guidelines on creating a female basic block, which has easy to follow instructions on one page and the diagram to copy on the page opposite. Once you have created the block using your model's measurements the book goes into detail on how to adapt the basic block into 9 different stays and corsets patterns from 1735 to 1890. All of these patterns are based on real garments which the author has studied in detail and then adapted for the modern figure. A lot of similar corset drafting books have the massive issue that body shape has changed significantly from the original figure who would wear such a corset to the modern bodies of today and therefore the patterns you would draft would simply not fit a modern woman! These corsets in the book are the following: 1735-50 fully boned-corset bodice, 1776 half-boned stays, 1785-88 half-boned stays, 1793 fully-boned stays, 1820 white cotton corset, 1860 closed front corset, 1860 closed front corset, 1876 corded and quilted corset, 1890 riding corset and 1890 wasp-waist corset. A typical chapter includes an image of the original historical garment (studied by the author from museums such as the V&A, Fashion Museum Bath and The National Trust Wade Costume Collection) followed by some historical information about the garment including how you could alter the garment for a modern construction (such as replacing the original bone channels to a bone size which is more readily available today). There then follows an in depth line drawing and explanation of the garment showing original stitch lines and bone channels, and how the individual pattern pieces should look. Then there are instructions with diagrams on how to trace your basic block pattern to use with this particular corset, and a measurements table to help you find the specific measurements to use for your model when drafting (ranging from bust size 80cm to 124cm - a godsend for anyone who has ever had to make period costumes for a bigger busted modern woman!). After this follows 7 pages of instructions and diagrams on how to plot all elements of the period corset including drafting the tabs, sleeves and bone channel placement. Just to clarify due to a previous review, this book has instructions on drafting patterns only so if you are looking for a book on how to sew a corset together then you would need to look elsewhere or buy this in conjunction with another book, however if you have a basic knowledge of corset making and /or costume construction it isn't difficult to figure out how these pattern pieces go together especially when you look at the beautiful close up photographs of the author's own corsets at the end of each chapter. This is highly unique book and I think essential for anyone interested in costume construction and period pattern drafting!

I have recently just bought the publication, Stays And Corsets by Mandy Barrington and have been using the book in my pattern cutting classes for the past few weeks. I primarily cut on the stand however I encourage my students to initiate both flat pattern and stand cutting within their work. The book collates a varied range of previously unseen examples of Corsetry from the Early Eighteenth Century to the Late Nineteenth Century.The patterns are exiting, refreshing of value to the Cutter or Interpreter of Historical Dress. The patterns in the book are easy to use for both novice and professional alike and from personal experience fit to perfection with little room for error unless your measurements are incorrect. It is important to note that this book takes into account the translation of original patterns to a modern female body shape rather than sizing to an original individual who lived two hundred years ago. The book is invaluable to a flat pattern and stand cutter,adding insight and informing knowledge on line and proportion. This book has been long in coming and bridges the gap between the work of such luminaries Janet Arnold and Norah Waugh This work is both interesting and insightful and a must for any College or University Library and a serious must have for any costume historian or students bookshelf. Wayne Martin

Such a great book! I've always found scaling up patterns and adapting them such a pain but now I don't have to. It has a vast range of corset patterns to choose from, all of which include straight forward instructions to draft. The corset fitted very well with minimal alterations needed so I'm always confident in the fit. I love that the corset patterns come from historical corsets, it also includes information and pictures of the original corsets. Absolutely recommend.

Interesting but not for beginners. A knowledge of pattern drafting is essential

Excellent book on historical styles of corset and how to construct custom patterns. However, if you are looking for a 'how to make' corset book this isn't for you as there are no construction details.

This is a beautiful book. The layout is clear and easy to follow, the photographs of each garment show what you can create from these patters

Fantastic book, need vol 2 now. Can't wait to start drafting

A good book but desperately needs a layout correction. Lest start with page numbers - who approved page numbers on the inside of a page? It’s always in the outer corner to enable flipping through the book to find a page quickly. Some of the pages have nice photos of a size of matchstick box and a half of a page is empty. Why? It would be so great to be able to study the photo in detail but not when it’s so tiny and clearly the lack of space wasn’t a problem. Ugh I didn’t draft any of the patterns yet but flipping through it looks like somebody put a lot of work into it - what a shame it’s so badly put together.

Ho voluto questo libro appena pubblicato perché so cosa sa creare l'autrice Mandy Barrington e si sta rivelando davvero un ottimo acquisto. Lo consiglio a chiunque voglia imparare a disegnare il cartamodello di un corsetto. Nel libro sono riportati i principali tipi di corsetti dal 1750 fino al 1890. Le fonti storiche usate sono corsetti visti (e per fortuna fotografati) dal vero, seguendo lo stile di Jill Salen in corsets, historical patterns and techniques, in cui però manca il processo dall'osservazione al cartamodello già fatto, cioè la costruzione, il vero e proprio disegnare il cartamodello, facendo i calcoli, ecc. Spesso sono riportati dei disegni dal libro corsets and crinolines che finalmente vengono spiegati nella loro creazione in due dimensioni su carta appunto. Cosa che in quel libro, anche se bellissimo, mancava. Alla fine del libro ci sono indirizzi e siti web per materiali da corsetteria, musei da visitare e una bibliografia essenziale. L'unica cosa che manca, ma che ovviamente non è compresa proprio nell'idea dell'opera, è la confezione. Lo scrivo solo come riferimento per chi volesse delucidazioni sul contenuto del libro. Non so dire se questo sia un libro per assoluti principianti, perché io sono già una modellista di mio quindi non ho bisogno delle sue guide per la costruzione di un corpino base, ma da ciò che ho letto mi pare molto chiaro anche per una principiante. Non sta comunque a me giudicare questo punto di vista. Punti di forza: chiarezza, schemi di impunture e stecche, bellissimi modelli, si è guidati passo passo nel disegno, è in cm e non in pollici. È un ottimo libro che consiglio vivamente. Chiunque cercasse anche informazioni sulla confezione qui su Amazon troverete un'ampia scelta di libri solo sulla confezione di corsetti.

Dieses Buch ist einfach toll: Historische Mieder und Corsagen können Dank detaillierter Anleitungen Schritt für Schritt angepasst und nachgearbeitet werden. Die Fülle an Informationen und Details ist erstaunlich und macht enorme Lust darauf, Maß zu nehmen, zuzuschneiden und zu nähen. Die Anschaffung hat sich trotz des stattlichen Preises allemal gelohnt!

The Book is well written and designed. Beautiful colour photos. Directions to make corsets included as well as patterns. I have not seen from it yet, but it looks clear and easy to follow. To have several corset patterns in one book is very nice .

Fabuloso. Para poder patronar paso a paso en cualquier talla. No es necesario tener conocimientos previos de patronaje. Modelos del siglo XVIII y XIX. IMPRESCINDIBLE.

i really like how this book is organized