Wynn'sAir Intake & Carburettor Cleaner - Powerful Solvent Formula for Deep Cleaning - Removes Gum, Lacquer & Deposits - Strong Jet Spray for Maximum Cleaning - 500ml

Had a rough idle on a Mk3 Twingo, the engine sounds like a sewing machine at the best of times.Used this to clean the throttle body; removed the air pipes and gave it a good blast, ignition on (not started) then gave it a blast with the flap open. Mopped up the filth, cleaned the pipe, back together and no more rough idle.Great product.

Cleaning Power and Effectivness sparyed into air intake run the engine and all back to normal.

Worked well for clearing out all the built up gunk from inside the carbaretter system.-caution though; there are forums that 'suggest' all types ((may)) cause damage to Aluminum engine components (as with all these type of cleaners) - particularly if used to excess.The engine needs to be running, and then taken for a run.. as it cleans out all the debris this needs to be blown out of the system, standing idling will not do the system any good with all that muck floating around.Also be aware that adding any type of cleaner can upset some of the better (more expensive) engine management systems, that will assume there is a fault with the fuel, and try to 'protect' the engine.It worked fine, but I would recommend BEFORE using ANY type of engine system cleaner, that it be used with caution / research beforehand.

I have used this carb cleaner previously, and this is repeat purchase, it cleans the muck and residue from the evil bio type petrol, on vintage carbs, it is also good for removing light oils and finger prints from various items that are to be bonded together with various glues, eg. loctite,super glue, epoxy, plastic metal.

I bought an old 2.2 HP Mercury outboard engine which started just fine, but after running for more than a minute on anything more than idle throttle, would begin to misfire and surge and eventually cutout - not great when you are using it to get to your yacht and you have a half mile of open lake to traverse. Asked a friend who knows something about outboard engines and he said it sounded like fuel starvation and that I should try a carb cleaner first before anything else.I bought Wynns carb cleaner on amazon user recommendations and the reasonable price. First of all I squirted it through the fuel pipe from the tank to the carb to clear that out. Then I filled the fuel reservoir under the carb and let it sit. Then I started the engine (mounted in a water filled wheelie bin) and squirted Wynns through the carb throat whilst cranking the throttle repeatedly. After going through half a can, the engine sounded much better, but because of the limitations of the wheelie bin, I couldn't really test it out properly at full RPM's.A few days later I was able to go back to the lake and give it a proper run on the inflatable. Well, all I can say is that even at full throttle now, the engine runs perfectly and delivers all the power I need without missing a beat.

Firstly, this is not the cheapest option on Amazon, with other brands being slightly cheaper, cannot comment as to how they compare as only used this Wynns pro version.Scenario: 5y/o Einhell lawnmower, was put away in a shed still 3/4 full of petrol, a big no, but our mowing season ended early last year due to poor weather - Got the old girl out to do a first cut a couple of weeks back and she failed to start, removed plug, cleaned and re-fitted (this usually works). Nope, no joy she ran for a short while then would cut out, then failed to start altogether. New plug bought and fitted, also some fuel stabiliser cleaner added to petrol to help clean internals without stripping down. Managed to do part of the lawn, she stuttered a few times but restarted, then refused with a strip about 6ft wide left.I actually started looking at new mowers, or possibly buying a new carb (which now has to be imported from Germany as Einhell UK no longer sell spares), but as a last resort thought I'd give some carb cleaner a go. I bought this version, due to the fact they are a well known name, have been around for years and this is the stronger, so called professional version.Method: Best done with an empty fuel tank, or if you're fortunate enough to be able to sit your mower on one side without it leaking you could also do that (not recommended but works).first brushed away any loose debris from the machine, then removed the air filter and gave the foam a quick rinse in warm water and left to air dry. Removed plug lead from the top of the plug to alleviate any unwanted start ups. Put a short spray into the air inlet and let it sit for a few minutes, then removed the air filter housing and sprayed some more carb cleaner directly into the carb (my straw worked well), then removed the bowl from the bottom of the carburettor (I had previously drained it), the bottom of the bowl had signs of surface rust, thus showing some water had got into the fuel system, albeit by fuel degredation or condensation. A quick squirt of cleaner, and a stiff brush (actually used an old wheel cleaning brush), wiped it out and dried with a rag before refitting. Refitted air cleaner housing and attempted to start the mower. First pull, success, let it tick over for a few seconds then gave it several short squirt down the air intake, the mower spluttered but did not cut out, quickly resuming normal running speed. Refitted dry air filter then proceeded to cut back, front and side lawns without any problems at all, so about an hours running time.Few points to make here.1. I was able to reuse my old seals on the airfilter and bowl, due to them being rubber gaskets (did put a tiny bit of silicone grease on them before refitting).2. Always advisable to wear some form of rubber / nitrile glove to prevent petrol and chemical contamination of the skin.3. This was done in my case with minimal tools and effort, literally a 10mm socket for the filter housing a 10mm spanner to remove the bowl and a plug spanner to change the plug.4. Dont be scared to try it yourself, you have nothing to lose and a £7 can of spray (got loads left) and a £3 plug is a lot cheaper than getting someone else to do the job for you, and certainly a lot cheaper than a new mower. If you do not feel confident removing the bowl, a quick squirt down the air inlet may be enough to cure your problem, I obviously had water ingress so needed doing.5. A fuel stabiliser additive is advisable, Brigg & stratton do one, I use the Hydra LMA-20, others are available, but with normal unleaded in the UK now turning to E10 (previously E5), which is basically 10% bio fuel, carb gumming will become more frequent as your fuel starts to go off - mixing in your fuel can is preferable to adding direct to the mower (hydra comes in 100ml bottles and is mixed at 1ml per litre so should last a few seasons, can also be used in 2 stroke strimmers etc).Sorry if this is long winded, but I'd like to think my review may help others save a few ££ for a few minutes effort

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Doesn't last long at all but does exactly what it says on the can. Managed to clean both mass/maf sensors on my cars along with other components within the air flow area. Made a huge difference will be buying in the future again!