HomeRight Super Finish Max HVLP Paint and Stain Sprayer, 3 Brass Tips

This is more of a "lessons learned" than a review. I'm an experienced, DIY painter - not a professional, but I have painted easily 10k sq' in my lifetime. Switching to a sprayer was not as user friendly as you think. I watched a few YouTube videos and read some blogs to get a "real life" review of using a sprayer, and that was really helpful, but there were still thing that were not covered. I'm going to try to capture my "lessons learned," and write my review at the bottom. In no particular order:1. Buy two extra containers. It's handy when you are painting a room, and you may have two colors for the room or the trim, or primer and paint, but instead of emptying them, and cleaning them, you can just put a lid on them and screw them back on the sprayer - just make sure to stir/shake. The third container is to use when you are cleaning the sprayer (more on that later).2. Yes, you do have to screw on a full container of paint on to the sprayer - it's awkward, and I always was afraid that I'd drop it, but I didn't. I suppose that you could put the container on a surface and spin the sprayer around on top - the cord is very short, so that is possible, but seemed more awkward to me, so I lift the container up to the sprayer and turn it to secure.3. You don't need a viscosity cup, but you do need to buy good paint. This model claims that you don't have to thin the paint. I didn't - I bought Benjamin Moore primer and paint. I got good coverage with the paint using the larger (red) nozzle. I had to experiment on how to hold it and the flow. Ceiling paint is made to be thicker to avoid drips, so I was nervous about that. I did find that it was "spitting" instead of spraying. I made sure that the intake valve was on tight - but it did not resolve it. I ended up dry-rolling the paint after I sprayed it so it wouldn't look like texture. I think it was worth it. So far, I've used the BM Fresh Start Primer, Ceiling, Aura Bath and Spa, and an old gallon of Pratt and Lambert Redseal, and they have all sprayed very well.4. Make sure that you tape down any drop cloths or plastic covering items that you don't want painted. The sprayer creates a blowing that will move even a heavy drop cloth when you get near to it. I laid a drop cloth in a closet to protect the floors, but when I got near the baseboards, the sprayer would blow the drop cloth away. It's pretty powerful5. I bought the fast cleaner kit, but I failed to realize that our kitchen faucet has a sprayer head, so it won't work with it. It will have to wait until we have garden hose weather.6. Get a good face mask. You *will* breath in the fine particles, and that is really bad for you. A bandana or a cloth mask doesn't cut it. I started out wearing an N95 that I have due to the pandemic, but I switched to this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0915XFDN5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 when it arrived.7. Speaking of the dust - yes, there's overspray, and yes, it's more than you would think. I mentioned that I sprayed a closet, and I had laid a drop cloth. When I sprayed over the door frame, the door was open. I found paint spray 5-6' away. Also, when I finally sprayed color on the walls - I had cut in the edges, thinking that I could spray within the edges - not possible. The overspray sprayed on my nicely painted ceiling. I don't know how professional painters do this - my husband works in the trades, and he says that all the painters he sees still roll everything. Well, it's true that with rolling you have more control, but it definitely takes longer. I guess you could do your ceilings last and tape and drape 1-2' of your walls, that's how much you'd need for the overspray.8. You can do ceilings - I wasn't sure how this would work since the directions very specifically tell you to keep the sprayer parallel to the wall at all times. So, that would mean tipping it on it's side to do a ceiling, that's exactly what you do. Point the intake tub to the back of the sprayer so that when the container is on, and it's pointed upwards, it will be pulling from the paint that has moved there.Ok, here's the review part:Overall, I like it, and I will use it a lot. I'm already excited about painting some other rooms and hallways in the house. The price is fantastic. You can't get a painter to show up for $100. Is it better than brushing and rolling? For some things, yes. But, there's a lot of the same work if you were brushing or rolling (some would say more).One of the things that I hate about painting is all the waste. So much paint down the drain as you clean brushes, rollers, paint trays. Well, it's not too much different with the sprayer. You have to empty and clean the container (if you are going to save the paint in it, make sure to wipe around the threads so that the cover doesn't stick), you have to clean the sprayer and it's parts, and you have to clean any other miscellaneous brushes or painting paraphernalia that you still use. I think the sprayer is a little less wasteful, if that's all you have to use, but I found with painting a room, I still needed a brush and a roller and a edge pad and a roller tray - so, in some ways the waste was double.But, that brings me to the use of paint by the sprayer. I was warned that the sprayer uses more paint. I can't say that has been my experience. I got paint for my bathroom ceiling, the guy said that I should be able to do it with a quart. I put the whole quart into the sprayer, but ended up with a quarter of it left. I did use 1.5 gallons of primer on 2 closets and a bathroom (including ceilings - we are doing a renovation, so it was new sheetrock). I think that seems reasonable. I also wonder - if you feel you have to thin the paint, aren't you going to get more out of gallon? Anyway, time will tell, and I'll try to update this if I feel like it's a real paint hog.You still have to do all the prep. Thoroughly clean any surface that you're painting, and you'll want to tape/protect areas from overspray, you'll still have to cut in and around edges. It doesn't eliminate that.So far with my experiences, I feel that the sprayer really excels on trim and doors. I sprayed a door using BM Advance, and the finish looks like it was done in a factory. I know that it's 85% the paint, but the sprayer gives it a sheen, and no brush strokes! I also painted some indoor shutters, and there's really no other way to paint shutters than with a spray gun - so much easier with better result.I am very happy that I purchased this. It has already returned the investment 100%, and I will use it many times and recommend it to my friends and family.

Absolutely worth every penny!! This is by far the easiest and best sprayer I've come into contact with. Clean up is a breeze! Took me roughly 10 mins to cleanup between paint colors. As an added note, I use "pump armor" to clean my sprayers between colors and before storage. It cleans thoroughly and keeps the sprayers from getting stuck while in storage essentially. (Warm soapy water is rarely ever enough to clean out a sprayer but I digress). I was able to paint 5 outdoor benches (in 4 different colors) in roughly 4 hours (this includes dry time between coats and having to flip them) so that says a lot. I spent maybe an accumulative 20 mins painting each bench in total. It was fast. The easy turning of the head instead of having the change heads to change direction and speed controls were excellent features. Highly recommend! I love this sprayer!!

I was a little scared to use this. I have never used a paint sprayer before. Using it itself scared me and also cleaning it scared me too. I have a small bathroom cabinet painting project that I wanted to do. So I practiced on a piece of cardboard and it actually wasn’t too bad. Adjusted the flow and there it went. I used zinsser cover stain primer diluted ( I know, it says not to but I did anyway) to 40 sec on their viscosity cup which I purchased it separately. Viscosity cup had its own directions for different kind of paints, primers and etc. so I followed that instruction to the T. So I sprayed it on sanded surface and I sprayed it very thinly at first. But found out that zinsser cover stain sands very nice and fast. So after sanding the first coat to smooth finish, I sprayed it again very thick next time. It was hard around corners where it gets the spray multiful passes over. The trick I found was that you spray past the corner so that corners don’t get as much paint sprayed. Then it got easy. I did all this with red sprayer tip. Then I used SW emerald trim paint in semi gloss and sprayed it with green tip. I also cleaned the tip with wet paper towel every time I stop spraying to prevent from clogging. When I was spraying primer, it wasn’t as perfect finish. But SW emeralds paint sprayed very nicely. I think because that paint was settling flat after spraying and it gave a much better finish. I sanded in between coats on all primers and paints. I got the nearly perfect finish and it feels like velvet. I am satisfied with this purchase. It sprayed so fast. You may want to build a clean dust free plastic tent like area where you can spray it tho. Make sure it’s dust free as much as you can. This blows a lot of air around when it’s on and dust flies everywhere. Make sure to use sticky cloth to clean before spraying. I did a lot of prep work and I think essentially, that’s what made it work the most. Cleaning was awkward at first but after the second time, it got easy. I used dish soap to clean and it came with a little brush cleaner to clean the little spaces. Don’t forget to wear a mask. I forgot to wear it once and inside of my nose hair was all covered in primer! And have a bucket ready by where you paint to have a quick access to run the machine with water. I did it as quick as I could so that paint doesn’t get stuck in the machine. Also I lined the cups with plastic ziplock bags and it did fine with spraying. But if you use one bag multiful times, they rip and leak anyway. I ended up not using the ziplock bag after the second coat of primer. I just put a wrap on top then closed the lid and kept it like that and it worked for the next time. I just mix the paint gently before spraying again. I would use this sprayer for as long as it runs. Oh! And spraying thick with this sprayer is not to hold it in one place for a longer time. Instead I spray it light and have a multiful light passes not stoping at the edge but pass the edge to not have too much paint at the edge.So the question is, is there a nicer sprayer? Probably. I’ve noticed the fine mist sometimes have a thick drop here and there. It was easy to sand it btw. Is it possible to get a factory like finish on cabinet doors with this sprayer? It’s hard and tedious work but yes you can if you do all the prep work combined with this sprayer. I do want to give a very nice expensive one a try when and if this one dies.

First, this is not like my big Graco unit that I use to paint houses its small and used for fast small projects and I love it!!! Of course the big Graco would do a nicer job but its a LOT more work to clean the unit. I think it is GREAT little unit and I would never paint a house with it (you be constantly reloading the container) but its perfect for furniture, a few cabinets, a dog house etc......Bottom line no regrets here! I would buy it again and recommend it to others

I used this airless sprayer in northern Minnesota to stain the outside of our 5-room cabin, a small shed, and some assorted small wooden pieces. The majority of the siding on the cabin and shed consisted of ~4-5 inch diameter logs (pine or spruce) cut lengthwise that were at least 50-years old and had been last painted ~25 years ago with a high VOC oil-based stain. This older type of stain is now banned in many states because of the high VOC (volatile organic compound) content, but can still be custom ordered in areas, like MN, where it is still legal. It is a wonderful product for durability and application, but I chose to use a more environmnetally friendly, water-based, acryilc stain. Needless to say, this was a challenging staining project for both the sprayer (it's a bigger project than this sprayer is designed for) and the stain (applying a water-based stain over an aged oil-based stain on a difficult surface). I was delighted with the initial results and with the results 3-months later. I will update my review next year, if there are any significant changes.The stain I used was the Sherwin Williams Woodscapes acrylic stain. I used the dark opaque base stain that was tinted to the desired color (a Navajo red-like color). This is a self-priming stain that is moderately viscous and designed for siding. It has some mold and mildew resistance built in. I greatly appreciated the self-priming nature of the stain, because it meant that I did not need to apply a primer, let it dry, and then apply the stain, so it saved a lot of time. The stain was also a great thickness that was easy to apply and gave great coverage and penetration with a brush in the places where using a brush, not the sprayer, was simpler or more practical. When using the sprayer the stain also went on well, penetrated the numerous cracks & grooves in the siding, and gave good coverage. I highly recommend this stain for these types of projects. It's a great product-at least after 3-months. I'll update my review if this changes in a year.On to the "HomeRight C800971.A Super Finish Max Extra Power Painter, Home Sprayer Hvlp Spray Gun for Painting Projects"! I boght the somewhat more expensive "extra power" version of this sprayer for 2 reasons. First, I knew I would be using a stain with a moderate viscosity and I was concerned that the "regular power" version of this sprayer, might not be able to manage the viscosity of the stain I was going to use. And second, this sprayer had a wider range of droplet sizes to which it could be adjusted. I'm glad I spent the extra $30 for the "extra power" version. This sprayer allows the user to choose between 3 included color-coded tips that provide flexibility beyond the droplet size "adjustment dial" built into the sprayer. The combination of tip selection and the "adjustmetnt dial" allows the user to use a essentially any common paint or stain and to produce different spray patterns and droplet size to adjust the quality of the finish. If the three included tips don't provide you with the desired finish, you can buy a kit that includes 3 additional tips (Homeright C900110 Spray Tip Multi Pack for Super Finish Max (Orange, Yellow, Black)) . I used the red tip designed to give a courser finish, but quicker application. I think one of the tips designed to provide a "finer" finish would likely have stuggled to use this stain, but I did not test them with the stain. The first day I applied 3.5-4 gallons of stain to finish the outside of the cabin. I had to refill the reservoir on the sprayer 15 or 16 times to complete the task and applying the stain took about 4-hours, so a full reservoir is good for about 10-15 minutes of spraying-including brief pauses to move the ladder, adjust my grip, or change the spray pattern and longer breaks to occasionally clean the tip assembly. The reservoir is easy to refill, so I was fine with the sprayer's limited volume. If you have a bigger job or are in more of a hurry, I suggest going with a higher capacity sprayer with a hose that you insert directly into the 5-gallon container of stain/paint. I regularly changed the spray pattern from a horizontal line to a veritcal line (a circular pattern is the third option avaiable) depending on the orientation of the surface I was staining-switching between spray patterns only took a few seconds. I needed to stop after each 5-6 fills of the reservoir to partially disassemble the tip assembly on the sprayer and clear it when it became clogged with drying stain. This process took ~5 minutes each time, but most sparyers require periodic clearing of the tip during use, so this was not a problem for me for this project. Gradul plugging of the tip also required that I periodically increased the droplet size and courseness of the finish by rotating the "adjustment dial" in order to keep working. Again, this was not a problem for this project., but may be a problem for larger projects. Cleaning the sprayer after the days work took me more than an hour, but I only had cold water form a hand pump (no, the cabin does not have indoor plumbing, but it does have electricity!) to clean the sprayer parts and to clean out the reservoir. Cleaning would have been much faster if I had access to an unlimited supply of warm soapy water. It is eesential to thoroughly clean the internal parts of the sprayer after each use to prevent problems in the future. If you are planning to change colors of paint or stain frequently, be sure to allow time for cleaning the sprayer for each change.The next weekend I spent the second day staining the shed and the smaller wooden pieces. These pieces were again pretty old and the wood well cracked from drying. I used 2-2.5 gallons for these projects. Pretty much everything I said above was true for this day also, however, these types of smaller projects are really what this sprayer is designed for. It worked superbly. I had to stop once to clear the red tip after the 5th fill of the reservoir. Clean-up was still a time-consuming step, but well worth the time saving of using a brush or roller.Other comments:1. Overspray was not a significant problem with this sprayer. Just don't spray on a super windy day. You still must tape or cover any surfaces (like windows) that you don't want paint/stain droplets on and wear appropriate personal protective equipment-especially to protect your eyes and respiratory tract.2. Be sure to wear proper personal protective equipment when using ANY sprayer. For me, this included a hat (kept the spray out of my hair and parts of my head), safety glasses (when I looked at mine during the work I saw tiny droplets of stain on them,so I was glad to have the safety glasses), and a respirator that covers your nose and mouth. A cheap paper dust mask does NOT provide adequate protection from the fine mist produced by a sprayer. Spend $25-30 to get a decent respirator with replaceable cartridges. Your nose, mouth and lungs will appreciate it! You could add gloves and a long-sleeve shirt if desired. I skipped the gloves and shirt and got some wind-blown spray on my hands, but less on my arms. Both my hands and arms cleaned up pretty quickly-even with just cold water. I suggest safety glasses like these (https://www.amazon.com/Pyramex-Fortress-Safety-Eyewear-Clear/dp/B003UY9C0C/ref=sr_1_32?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1533890807&sr=1-32&keywords=safety+glasses) that don't easily fog up and a respirator like this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009F5KDS/ref=twister_B01MUGE5FK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1).3. It is ESSENTIAL that you properly prepare the surface before applying the stain/paint. Failing to prepare the surface properly will give you poor results, REGARDLESS of the paint/stain you use and regardless of whether you use a sprayer, brush, or roller. You will likely spend at least as much time preparing the surface as applying the stain/paint, so plan accordingly. For this project, I used a scrub broom to knock down cobwebs, spider egg cases, etc. I then scrubbed the wooden surfaces with bleach water (using a deck wash or borax would also work), then rinsed the surfaces with plain water, and finally let the surface dry for a few days. I couldn't use a pressure washer, because I didn't have access to pressurized water, but that would have saved time. There were several pieces of siding that had areas where dry rot, insects, or lichens had decayed the wood under the old stain. I removed as much of these "spungy" areas as possible with the scrub prush and for particularly bad areas a wood chisel and had to replace some of the siding boards completely. The prep took a lot of time, but I cannot emphasize how important it is to apply stain/paint to clean, dry, decay-free surface. As mentioned above, skipping the prep step will give you poor results including stain/paint coming up within weeks, months, or possibly a year.4. The sprayer is pretty light weight, so almost anyone can use it.5. One negative with the sprayer is the small wrench they provide to install and remove the 2 metal parts of each tip. In a word, the wrench sucks. It's too small to provide much leverage (which does prevent you from over-tightening the two pieces of the tip when you're installing the tips) and it "stripped" out pretty quickly making it useless for removing the tips once a lttle stain/paint had started to dry in the tip. I quickly resorted to using a pair of wrenches with a longer handle to loosen the tip pieces.Summary: I pushed the limits of this sprayer with this project, but so far the results are fantastic. Cleaning the sprayer is a bit of a pain, but the prep work is the same regardless of whether you use a brush, roller, or sprayer. In less than 2 afternoons I stained an area that would probably have taken 4 or 5 full days to do with a brush and the brush would probably not have provided as good of coverage. I expect that completing smaller projects with this sprayer could give great finishes. I highly recommend this sprayer (and the stain).

I'm in the process of prime and paint of an entire interior of a smaller home - and when I found out this does not need the paint thinned - it was a huge selling point for me. I watched a couple utube videos from others using it, and looked through all the reviews, before purchasing, which was quite useful. I am a simple DIYer and not a pro by any means. I have now primed using this with Kilz 2 primer, not thinned, and it has meet my expectations - especially after getting the settings and such tuned for my need with this primer.A couple points to mention:1) it does get warm (not hot), so when using with latex paint, make sure you stop and wipe off the nozzle often to maintain a good spray (especially if not thinned).2) when full of paint, it does have some weight to it...I've found myself switching between hands frequently, and even using both at times.3) yes, it is on the noisy side... but not much more than most other power tools in the garage (I'd compare it to a leaf blower, little louder than a shop vac)4) make sure the area is clean around it (like any construction dust), as it will absolutely blow that around when it comes near5) clean it well after each use, and even during if needed (I got in the habit of removing the cap and wiping off the nozzle every time I refilled).6) per the directions and recommendations... practice first and get the settings where you need them for your paint and project. Being I was strictly priming and on a tight schedule, I figured I'd figure it out as I went...and now have my practice for the actual top paint. But I will likely practice on cardboard to get the settings right for when I start the new paint.7) this is not a high dollar, professional sprayer...so don't expect to get professional results. This is my own home and I don't expect it to look perfect - just better than it did when I first got it (evidence of smoking plus stains everywhere)8) it does have some over-spray, but not crazy so far for me... so taking the time to tape and cover first is recommended. For me, I'm not necessarily looking for clean lines and didn't mind if it got on some of the trim (as I know I'll be eventually replacing it later).Overall, I found this to be extremely useful, cleaner, and easier than rolling and brushing. Is it faster and use less? I don't have much to compare that to... but with the choice, I would pick this over the roller and brushing.

This sprayer is awesome! I never sprayed paint before, and I had an 1100sq foot new contruction shed exterior to paint. It was T11 plywood, doesnt take roller or brush well. I had ten yr old latex from our house paint job leftover. Bought Floetrol additive, 190micron mesh strainers. 8oz Floetrol to one gallon ratio. Used my drill and mixer to blend. Follow the instructions testing with water. For me, the best tip was green with black head. Spraying from 6 inch away level strokes. Its a workout for sure, but it lays down even coat paint very well. Cleanup is not bad either. I highly recommend this little sprayer. Not bad for under $80. you only get red tip, green tip and blue tip. The instructions show orange, yellow, and black..not in the box.

Usage:I painted my house (1500 SQFT Ranch), 3 car garage and shed with this thing. I never had any issues with clogging and spitting as some complain. The few times it happened was after I let the gun sit while I reloaded on paint. If you have to leave the gun sit between painting, just clean the goobered paint off the nozzle with a wet cloth and do a test spray at the ground before hitting the house. It took me about 3 weekends to finish the job mainly because were were testing out different colors, and avoiding weather. I recommend getting a second, maybe third canister. This way you can load up a few extra's to keep painting, or have someone around to run and get you refills. Getting up and down a ladder to reload took the most time.The temperature was in the high 80's to low 90's.We used VALSPAR SEASONPLUS paint from Lowes.With one canister I could cover about 7'-8' high and about 15 liner feet. Having those extra canisters will keep you painting. I did the bottom half of my entire garage in about 3 hours.Mixing:Get a smaller bucket, I think it was 2 gallon, and also a measuring bucket. I got them at Lowes, it made it easier to mix the paint and Flowtrol. It was impossible to dump paint from the 5 gallon bucket into the canisters.They also sell nozzles that fit into the 5 gallon bucket hole. Get one! The first few times you pour from a 5 gallon bucket, it don't have air flow and it glugs out. I had to squeeze the 5 gallon bucket between my thighs so it would force it out.Floetrol! In total I ran 7-8 gallons of paint using Floetrol every refill. I think I used about 1.5 gallons. https://www.amazon.com/Flood-FLD6-Latex-Conditioner-1-Gallon/dp/B003IF3FWE/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=flotrol&qid=1599163396&sr=8-2Get a small mixer for your drill. I would add the Floetrol directly in the canister, then top off with paint from the small bucket. The mixer seemed to do the job well. You could shake it to mix, but just took longer. Beware! Don't let paint dry on the mixer, or when you go to mix another batch the paint flakes off and you have to filter it. I had a metal one, but found it was nicking up the bottom of the canisters towards the end. Might get nylon or plastic to avoid this. https://www.amazon.com/Shur-Line-06200-Gallon-Paint-Mixer/dp/B00004Z4H5/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1DY3AY2ZLZCQQ&dchild=1&keywords=paint+mixer+for+drill&qid=1599163682&sprefix=paint+mixer+%2Caps%2C218&sr=8-8If you do get paint flakes, or just crap blowing around the yard in your paint, get some paint cone filters. I didn't need to use them unless I got stuff in my paint. I just bought some at my local hardware store. https://www.amazon.com/Micron-Paint-Strainers-Terberl-Filter/dp/B07V4WRJJG/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2E6DR8CBRRMNJ&dchild=1&keywords=paint+filters+for+spray+gun&qid=1599164102&sprefix=paint+filters%2Caps%2C225&sr=8-6Cleaning:Don't bother with the cleaning kit, that was useless. I just used the nozzle on my hose, low water flow, and flushed until it ran clean. Then I would clean it out with the brush in my kitchen sink. It was very tedious, but I made sure EVERYTIME it was clean so I wouldn't gunk up my nozzle. I probably cleaned and used it 8-10 times.Other tips:I tried to fashion a guard to help from painting the eves, it was just cardboard on a stick. It got all flimsy and a mess so I abandoned it. I ended up painting 6-8 inches from the eves and went back with a brush to finish it off. They do sell spray shields, but trying to handle a shield, the paint gun, and balance on a ladder seemed impossible.If you have to use a ladder, don't over spray too far in one direction (right side for me.) I painted left to right. I would start out with the gun in my left hand, and then switch to my right after I passed the ladder. With the ladder leaning on the house, you'll leave little areas unpainted. If you lean and spray too far to the right, you won't be able to lean far enough back left to spray the missed spots once you move the ladder.Cut up an old T-shirt and wrap the ends of your latter to make little pads so if you do have to lean on painted areas it won't muck up the paint. I just duck taped them on.When loaded with a fresh canister, paint the lower 1-2 feet first. This is because you'll most likely have to point the gun down to paint this area. You'll find that as you run out of paint it will suck air when pointed down and mess up your rhythm leaving you to go back over spots. But with the lower half painted first, you can keep the sprayer level at all times.Affix the nozzle so it points towards the gun. This way it's easier to point up and not suck air.Make sure to affix the nozzle BEFORE screwing on a canister. This will avoid the WTF moments when the gun isn't spraying.If you point the gun up or down too far, or if it falls over, it will get paint up in the gun making it harder to clean.Don't leave the canister filled with acetone over night! It expanded the gasket in the canister, luckily it reshaped itself in a few days, but was still a little wonky.

Has anybody from UK managed to use the sprayer with adapter plug? As it is at the moment it's unusable with U.S plug. Any help or advice much appreciated.

Very expensive and there is no after sale support in india. Moreover the same is running on 110 v whereas in india 220 v supply is available. I suffered loss when the motor was damaged and not provided by vendor or homeright

I used this to prime and paint my kitchen cabinets. Prior to this I had no experience in using a paint sprayer gun. This was very beginner friendly! I made sure to practice with water outside before using paint. Do it a few times to get used to the amount of spray and different nozzles. For the first application of paint do a test surface, or paint on surface that is not too notable, like the backside of a cabinet door. You will need a long extension cord for your outlet too. Also to note, you can’t paint with this gun aimed at the floor because it will splatter big splotches. The sprayer needs to be held upright or slightly on an angle. There is very fine overspray too so make sure you cover up for floors and any areas you don’t have to get painted! Sprayer is easy to clean. I didn’t have any issues with it after cleaning and reusing again. The finish is really smooth and professional looking! I didn’t have to thin any of the paint either. For context I used benjamin moore Stix primer and benjamin moore chantilly lace in semi gloss. Overall very happy with this purchase and the results I got. I don’t have any complaints, but take with a grain of salt because I also don’t have anything to compare it to :)

Esta pistola de pintura llevo casi 8 meses usándola y es EXTRAORDINARIA.Soy entusiasta DIY y la he utilizado con pintura acrílica base agua, pintura para madera con poliuretano base agua y primer y funcionan extraordinariamente bien. Recomiendo comprar el kit de puntas adicionales.Su limpieza es muy simple y aunque la pistola viene integrada con la boquilla esta viene sellada y no hay problema que se moje porque el motor y partes eléctricas vienen selladas a prueba de humedad.La relación costo/beneficio es de lo mejor que hay. He probado otras marcas como Wagner y definitivamente me quedo con esta

Me pase buscando cual me convenía mas para pintar muros en casa, ya he tenido este tipo de pulverizadoras pero de mas bajo precio, la desventaja de las otras es que tienes que rebajar mucho la pintura y por lo tanto dar mas capas, ademas de que las mas baratas salpican gotas medianas que te manchan el piso y otras cosas al rededor, aparte de que son propensas e taparse mas fácilmente porque limpiarlas no es tan fácil. Después de ver vídeos y comparar con otras marcas me decidí por esta ya que aunque cuesta el doble o triple que las económicas, pienso usarla continuamente, para mi sorpresa estoy muy contento con el resultado, para pintura vinilica en muros no tira ni una sola gota, y la dilusión la hice solo al 20%, es decir la pintura estaba casi espesa y trabajo de maravilla, estoy muy contento ya que si me ahorro mas de la mitad del tiempo que tarda una persona con el método tradicional de rodillo y brocha, lo que si recomiendo mucho es tener un trapo húmedo mientras se maneja la pistola para poder limpiar lo que se llegue a manchar con la casi invisible briza que escapa de la misma, es decir que la briza alcanza aveces la pistola y al terminar de trabajar tu pistola esta con una capa muy finita de pintura, pero con el trapo lo vas limpiando para que siempre este reluciente y bien presentable para usarla de nuevo.