Siraya Tech Blu Nylon 3D Printer Resin Nylon-Like Strong and Precise High-Resolution 3D Printing Resin 405nm UV-Curing Rapid Resin for LCD DLP 3D Printer(1kg, Black)

I have been using a variety of Siraya Techs resins for quite a while and prefer them over most of the other brands I’ve tried. They give great quality results and I’ve had no print failures at all, which in the end saves money

Résine de grande qualité, comme toujours avec la marque Siraya Tech. La résine BLU est un peu plus souple que la Fast et est donc moins cassante. Par contre, elle est plus odorante durant l'impression.

Todo bien.

Una gran resina con excelente resistencia, para prototipos funcionales es la mejor opción

Habe die Resin von Siraya Tech Blu Black gekauft und sehr präzise Teile für eine Nema23 Planetgrtriebe gedrückt.Die Teile sind Millimeter genau geworden,habe eine Anycubic M5S Drucker mit selbst gebauten Behälter Heizung "4 Stk. PTC Heizelement AC DC 12V Aluminiumschale Keramik Heizplatte Keramik Heizplatte Temperiergeräte Heater(220℃ 5—28W)" und 40 Grad Celsius verwedet.2 Stk. Komplett Getriebe hat der drücker mit der Siraya Einstellungen in 2 Stunden und 20 Minuten gedruckt.Die Getrieben wurden zusätzlich mit Liqui Moly Lithium Fett geschmiert,keine geräusche und keine abrieb der komponenten.Werde Siraya Tech wieder kaufen! Tolle druck Ergebnisse.

Very tough, virtually no odor, very accurate. Needs to be at 25°C to print well, as it's fairly thick. Slightly translucent very dark blue/purple. Can be dyed opaque black with RIT Proline dye. (Don't waste your time trying to use the new consumer dye - it's garbage. The old stuff works if you have any though.) Best print settings with an Anycubic Photon Mono X seem to be 3 burn-in layers @ 14 sec. / 2.6 sec exposure time 50um layers. You need to be certain that the bottom of your build plate is flat and parallel to the LCD. I had to surface mine on a milling machine with a 6" flycutter to get it flat. Had to take off almost 0.010". If it's not dead flat you will probably have print failures. If you don't have a milling machine (why not?) then you should be able to get it flat with various grades of wet/dry sandpaper and a [minimum] 1/4" thick glass plate. Start with 80g and go up to about 320 max. in 4 steps. Start with 320 to see how far off it is first. If it's as far off as mine was, you will be there quite a while. Or mill it. Best way to get perfect prints (on any machine that uses the same clamping setup as the Mono X) - loosen the build plate screws , home the machine (do NOT put a piece of paper on the LCD - put your vat on the machine - empty, of course). Once the machine is homed, lightly press it against the LCD and tighten all the screws. Raise the build plate, loosen the clamp knob, and insert a piece of 0.003-0.005" thick paper between the build plate upper support and the carriage effectively raising the build plate by ~0.005". This also seems to damp some of the vibrations inherent in the machine resulting in better print detail. This only works on machines that clamp the plate to the carriage the way the Mono X (or regular Photon Mono) does it. BE CAREFUL - if you don't know what I'm talking about, don't try this - you may end up breaking your LCD. If you have difficulty getting prints off the base, try sticking it in a deepfreeze for a few hours. The print should just slide off. Put something under it in the deepfreeze to catch drips. Please note that any food in the freezer that isn't totally sealed will end up smelling/tasting like resin. Don't assume that something is sealed just because it's in a box. Ask me how I know...