Dorman 926-959 Patented Upgraded Aluminum Engine Oil Filter Housing with Oil Cooler and Filter Compatible with Select Models (OE FIX)

I don’t often write reviews, but I had to for this one. I work as a mobile mechanic, and I get a lot of calls for failing oil coolers on Chrysler products — especially the 300s. The original oil cooler is notorious for leaks and a ton of related issues. Whenever I replace a failing cooler, I always look for quality parts is best compared or above OEM standards, and this one goes above and beyond. Not only do you get a complete aluminum oil cooler, but it also comes with the oil filter and intake manifold seals, replacement screws for installation, and a port plug for specific models — which alone would cost about $80–$90 separately. This kit was clearly made with mechanics in mind. It saves me time and money by including everything I need in one box, so I don’t have to make an extra trip to the parts store. If anything, I wish this came with injector seals but that’s me being picky. The included gaskets are high-quality, and the color-coded design with a card explaining the gasket change - a nice touch. The cooler performs better than the original and keeps temperatures lower. Installation-wise, the cooler itself is easy. The hard part is just getting to it. Once installed, it fits perfectly in the valley, and I’ve had no oil pressure issues at all - in all my time installing these units. If you want to save around $150, buy it online. And if you want to save yourself a headache, get the Dorman cooler. Trust me, this isn’t a job you’ll want to redo.

Was compatible with my 2017 charger sxt, fit perfect, great value for the price, sealed great, very durable , sensor works great. Recommend this for the price

I replaced the old parts with these last well, and so far so good. In contrast to the original that I know lasted 90,000 miles. There wasn't even a problem with the old part except that it was a plastic item that the knit wit manufacturer had placed inside the engine that I was advised to be rid of. I don't know how long these will last. We'll just have to wait and see. But thus far thus good.

have a damn solid mechanic. I thought I had a leak — I did not — but since this part is recommended to be replaced every 36k–50k miles and my Mojave was at about 50k, I opted in. I did quite a bit of research on this product. First off, most are made in the same factory in China but go through extensively different quality control processes. This includes Dorman and Mishimoto. I can’t say how many factories or which makes which, but know they are all made there. The biggest difference is the aluminum oil reservoir — some are made differently, and they don’t all sit well. Dorman’s unanimously has the best seal. That said, you really should use Mopar and Fel-Pro Viton seals — they are the blue and green ones. The red Viton are not as good and have failure issues. Also, use Mopar O-rings, use Mopar sensors, and use orange threadlocker — it’s a bridge between blue and red, literally made for stuff like this. Lastly, pay attention to torque specs on the cap — that’s the biggest failure point for the Dorman. The “best” fix is to couple it with a Baxter adapter, but that’s another ~$400, and those are debatable. The most important thing is to follow the torque specs and don’t over-torque the cap — over-torquing compresses the O-ring, which is where most failures occur. It’s not an easy job. Each part has different torque specs, and most reported failures are due to user error and incorrect torquing. If you don’t have the proper tools, buy the part, buy the seals and sensors I mentioned, and bring it to a shop that charges hourly. Use a Wix XP filter and Mobil 1 High Performance oil. The shop I took mine to installs these regularly. I wasn’t the only one there that day, but I was the only person who brought the full kit I specified, and the mechanic was very impressed and stoked because all he had to do was build and install it. Look — it’s a great quality product that is built to fit perfectly, keep oil pressure at the correct levels, and serve as an OEM replacement. It’s covered by warranty as long as you follow OEM installation guidelines.

Anyone needing to replace their oil cooler should look no further then the Dorman. It has a great reputation for a reason. It was easy to install and I have had no more issues. Solid Product

The oil cooler is a known weak spot. You should, depending on mileage or age, replace both sensors on the housing. It has a coolant/oil temp switch on some models and an oil pressure sensor on all. It’s not easy to replace as it is under the intake plenums, you have two. Clean everything nicely and do not use sandpaper or a 90° angle grinder on it. I suggest swapping out your valve cover, gaskets depending on mileage while you’re in there. It is not easy. I have been a mechanic for over 20 years. It’s not that difficult either. It’s just time consuming. Take your time. Make sure you clean everything and when you get it together, you can run an oil pressure building procedure. The way you do this is you put your gas pedal all the way down to the floor and then proceed to start your jeep. The jeep will not start the 3.6 and 3.8 motors will not fire up if the gas pedal is depressed all the way. This will allow the engine to build oil pressure turn the key and attempt to start the car with the gas pedal down for 3 to 5 seconds then you have to turn the key all the way off because the Jeep will attempt to start itself. After you do this one or two times I suggest three times for 3 to 5 seconds each. Then pull your foot off of the gas pedal and start the vehicle. Do not use angle grinders, or anything on the gaskets in the valley you will destroy the block. When you’re cleaning up the intake gasket, use a plastic scraper or a gasket, scraper and brake cleaner or a solvent to clean the gasket material off of the intake. Do not damage your heads. Make sure you clean out the intake real well because you’re gonna have oil in there. The emissions regulations on these engines do not allow the crank case ventilation to go to the atmosphere. That’s why you will see oil in the system. You need to catch it to do anything about this or attempt to mitigate it. Yes, it looks good and it has a cool orange color and it’s aluminum. I’m not sure how well that is as the factory unit lasted me 11 years and 115,000 miles with very very small leaks. It’s been about five days since I’ve installed this unit and I continue to bleed the coolant and check my oil. When you bleed your coolant, make sure that you open up the valve on the top of the thermostat housing or you will have a heck of a time getting the air out of the system. This is well known for the 3.6. Search YouTube for help. Use 5-w30 oil from here on out. This is why they have rocker issues. If you are in the Midwest or somewhere in the center, you can use 5W-30 if you’re in a call the region you could probably use 5 20 with no issues if you’re in a warmer region adjust accordingly.

I purchased the oil cooler to replace the plastic housing and aluminum cooler on my 2014 JKU Rubicon. My engine has about 80k miles on it and the plastic parts like this cooler housing start failing about 70k miles or so. I didn't get to the engine again for about 5 months so the return date was long past. I installed the part early 2026. When I started the engine, oil poured out of the rear of the motor. I took everything back apart, inspected the seals on the bottom of the cooler. They were in place, all intact and had no obvious defects. Non the less, I purchased new fel pro seals and reinstalled the cooler. Again, oil poured out of the rear of the engine from the intake valley. I cannot find any defects but I'd had enough. I was told that Mishimoto made good parts so I ordered an oil cooler from them. It came with all seals and sensors. When I started the motor and no leaks. Dorman used to be a good aftermarket parts supplier. My experience now tells me otherwise. Both Dorman and Mishimoto cost about the same. Mishimoto comes with all the gaskets, seals and sensors installed. If they make the parts you need, it is a better deal and the parts are high quality.

There’s like a 95% chance you’re looking at this because your oil cooler housing on your Mopar with the Pentastar is either failing, cracked, or leaking. All in all, this is a fantastic upgrade that I seriously wished was from the factory. Installation was absolutely painful for beginners or those who aren’t too mechanically inclined, but is definitely worth doing the change. Anyways, the Dorman oil cooler housing is metallic instead of the OEM plastic, which is rather obvious given that the OEM one is black and metal being metal, is silver. Oil pressure is the same, functions really smoothly, and fits exactly the same as a new OEM oil cooler housing from Mopar. Now the caveats were that the included seals were and are trash, so I went and got the OEM seals for it, same goes for the included oil filter. Installed on my 2014 Jeep Cherokee KL Limited V6 4x4 and after running it for over two months now, this was easily one of the best maintenance things I’ve ever done.

Excellent value.

The product is made in Malaysia and is of low quality. Why was it not made clear that it was made in Malaysia? I want American made. In general, the quality is bad. There is no professionalism in the final appearance. Aluminum alloy inserts are not equal and I do not recommend purchasing them.

De muy alta calidad, bien fabricado y con un kit súper completo, queda perfecto en mi vehículo

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After smelling a strong odour coming through my heater vents, I initially thought the exhaust was leaking but the pools of oil rapidly forming under the car let me to research leaks on the Grand Caravan, and this became the number one culprit. I watched a bunch of videos online about how to replace this, and as a fairly competent home mechanic with basic level tools I took my time, checked and double checked everything, and had the whole thing done in probably 3-4 hours outdoors on the driveway. It's been a week and no more smells or oil leaks. It's not the cheapest replacement part, but the quality appears to be good, and there is some basic assembly required so make sure you have all the tools before you start. A lb-in torque wrench is a good idea if you want to be precise as well as something like water pump pliers or hoseclip removal pliers. Car trim removal tools proved really useful for loosening old hoses. Also, I'd recommend getting an oil transfer/extractor syringe that will make light work of cleaning out most of the pooled oil that will have collected in the valley between the cylinder banks. Much better than soaking it up with paper towels. In some online guides they will instruct you to remove the fuel hose from the injector manifold - i found it easier and quicker to remove the airbox, leave the fuel rail connected and simply flip the injector manifold over to where the airbox used to be.