Flutesan 20 Pcs 2 Pin 8 mm LED Strip Connector RGB Lights

Worked good

For the les side, the end that meets up with this will need almost a whole pad- do not cut in center. Not sure how strong these are in regards to maintaining connectivity. Seems that a little mech. movement at that joint would compromise power. On the one I used, it seems tight.

I make a lot of LED projects and constantly look for ways to conveniently connect power to a strip. Soldering works, but is often difficult to get right due to the coating on the strips, the thin layer of copper conductor and nature of the solder in use. These do offer quick connection to power and controllers, but still need some TLC to work properly. AND they are not at all suitable for anything that will be moved, vibrated or shifted. The connectors that attach to the copper strip work, but the flexible plastic case permits the strip to move which can break the physical connection to the tiny copper pads. I find it desirable to scrape the surface of the pads on the LED strip lightly to improve contact. These connectors do work consistently and are great for static connections that remain rigid once connected. The cost is very reasonable for prewired connectors.

These work great… when used correctly. I am connecting waterproof 4 lead LED strip lights for my boat. I had some issues with these the first couple of connection strips I tried. The trick I figured out is that you need to pierce the light strip through the led side NOT the adhesive tape side. Every time I tried going through the adhesive tape 1-2 of the contacts failed. But when I pierced the tape from the clear LED side, they always worked. The adhesive sticks very well to the underside of the gunnel versatrack, and looks great. I think this is going to work very well for night fishing.

Nice try. I really mean it. It was a good idea. This review refers to the 6 pin 12mm connectors. Unfortunately, I've had to use about 7 attempts to get ONE moderately good connection (and wiggling the wire just a bit flickers the lights, so I don't have long-term hope for these). And no, the problem wasn't my wire gauge or the wire connection side. That side seemed to mostly work OK. The problem is with the ribbon LED side. If you have any prayer or hope in getting a good connection, you need to cut the LED strip in order to get the maximum LED connectors. In other words, don't cut on the dotted line, cut so that you get the most surface -- and yes, you'll be sacrificing a section of LED. But even doing so, it just doesn't work most of the time. Maybe if you only have 2 pin or 4 pin connectors they work ok. Not the 6. Sorry. However, with taking all of that, I have not come across a decent alternative. Guess I'll be getting my soldering iron out.

When I first tried these, I couldn't get the connections to be stable and the connected light strips wouldn't stay on with any movement of the strand. Fortunately I had bought extra tape to practice with before my final project. Before puncturing anymore holes in the copper pads, I tested the connectors by just tapping the copper to the pins first. Then I realized that I was getting a much better connection if I attached the light strips face down in the connectors and voila! Problem solved. Going forward, I made sure to test the connection after each new strip added, by plugging it all in. That way I knew which connection was having issues if need be. The whole thing worked flawlessly on the first try!

Connectors are easy to use. I didn't have to splice wires and clipped onto strip easy. Once wire side is closed there's no reopening without damage. The connector pierces wires and the light strip. I found poor connections on both sides. Unfortunately it was after testing and gluing that it decided to not work. Need something more reliable.

These things are amazing. I bought them to split my cords and have 2 short ones on our church stage. They work very well and we're easy to setup. Its only been a week. Will update if anything goes wrong.

The teeth aren't strong enough to pierce the casing around the wires, so they don't make contact. Using pliers to add a bit of pressure does nothing, as the amount of pressure needed to pierce the wires only cracks the housing.