XtremeVision CanBus Decoder for LED Headlights - LED Resistor - CanBus Error Eliminator - Anti Flicker Capacitor - H4, 9003-1 Pair

These are what I needed. The 9012 Fahren Termitor LEDs I installed would not always stay on but their brightness and projection was great. So despite them already having inline Canbus units I purchased these. The enclosures are just big enough that they don’t install inside the headlight, but I already had 1” holes drilled in the removable covers as the last LED bulbs I had installed required it for cooling so I fed the clips through the cover, attached the bulb to one end and the factory wiring clip to the other end of the decoder (OEM black to decoder black, OEM green to decoder re, and the Fahren bulb positive to OEM green, negative to black- same on driver side & passenger side), then holding the decoder to the back of the cover got it in place and twisted the 1/4 turn to lock it in place. The decoder wiring is just enough to do this, simple install, took my time to make sure all the clips and wiring are tucked inside the light housing and the clips are not in the way of the cover mating with the housing. It took me an hour for both sides start to finish mostly due to gaining access through the fender liner on the Trailhawk and not removing the front tires just turning them to gain access to the headlight bulbs wiring. Now I have the DRLs back on and the lights act normal… and stay on… just a LOT brighter and farther than halogen so I’m happy… and safer.

I've got a buddy who, when he saw the difference the led bulbs made in my truck, bought some for his jeep. The ones i bought were great. I just plugged em into the factory bulb sockets & BAM!! Huge difference over the old halogen. So my buddy was in from out of town to see his folks, & while in town he stopped by my house with his new led bulbs & we changed em out. Well, he hops in his jeep, turns on the headlights, & BAM!! Huge dif*BLINK*er*BLINK*ence over *BLINK*...*BLINK*...WTF??!! So we put the old bulbs back in his ride & he left town that next morning...well, i did a lil research online & found out that not all replacement LED bulbs will plug & play...guess I just got lucky...anyway, when I next talked 2 him, I told him about what i had read & asked him if he had bought , or was going to buy the decoders or whatever you call en, to make his bulbs work, & he said he was over it. (He's a good dude, but kind of a hothead sometimes...lol) So I looked to see what kind of investment it was going to take & found that these were pretty inexpensive compared to most others, & since I knew how much better off he would be with the LED's over the halogen, & figured he was too over it to buy them himself, I bought them & gave them to him the next time he came to town. He took them home with him & I got a text from him telling me that his he had installed these with the LEDs & they were still *BLINK*ing....well DAMN!! I tried....he asked if I wanted to return em, but I just told him I was over it....ugh!!!

I needed these due to flickering issues after installing some new LED fog light assemblies on my 2016 GMC Canyon, and these capacitors have worked great. Eventually the lights will be wired through a separate switching system, but for now they are powered by the OEM fog light wiring which uses PWM, hence the flickering. Easy install, they just clipped in, and no more flickering. The only problem with these is that the product is very cheaply constructed (not unexpected for this price point), and this is especially apparent in the connectors which are not at all weathertight. Depending where the connectors are located this may not be a problem, but in my case they are exposed to the elements. I solved this by using some dielectric grease around the joints on the plastic connectors (not on the metal terminals) and wrapping the entire connector in electrical tape. However, for the price these absolutely can't be beat, as they do the job they are supposed to do.UPDATE: After a year of using these (they worked flawlessly) I installed a new switching system so no longer have a need for these. They are still in great shape with no corrosion anywhere. The plastic box came apart when I removed them from the vehicle (I had attached it to the frame with REALLY strong double sided tape), and the inside components are completely sealed in some kind of epoxy. These are much better quality than they look (except for the connectors, those still aren't great), highly recommended!!

We bought a 4-pack of LED headlights for my '17 Toyota Camry. The Daytime running lights did not work.We wrote the help line asking for support and they replied:"...as the working voltage of DRL is 6-9V and the headlight is 12V, the voltage is different. It is too powerful to light up in DRL mode. It may flicker or fail to turn on.Please do not worry, we will recommend a solution to you.Here is the resistor at ASIN: B06WLM6LS5 that can solve it."The only thing off-putting, when I pulled up the part number, it specifically said that this was NOT compatible with my '17 Toyota Camry. I ordered it anyway and it worked right away. No hiccups.

I purchased a pair of Fahren 9012 LED lights for my 2013 Dodge Durango. They are good and quite bright. But there is apparently a CAN bus issue that causes the headlights to shut off for about 10 seconds. At first it was just the left one, but then both headlights went off. That's definitely NOT acceptable. On my theory that it was a CAN bus issue, I bought these "Super Decoders". For less than $15, it was worth trying them.Now comes the installation issue. The left picture is the back cap of the headlight with a quarter in it for scale. The case of the Super Decoders are about 3 inches long, and there was absolutely no way they would fit under the cover. The case about a half inch behind the blue o ring is rubber and I had to cut a slot in them, keep the decoders outside of it and feed the wires through to plug it in. Fortunately, this is inside the fender and inner fender cover and should not cause any intrusion of the elements.