MG Chemicals 841AR-P Nickel Conductive Pen, 7.5g

I'm very glad this product exists. Saved me hundreds of dollars!The material flows pretty well once you get the hang of it. It's similar to a paint pen, but with nickel in solvent. Let it dry! It wont conduct until the metal settles and the solvent dries. It was fun to use a multimeter and watch the resistance drop as the fluid cured.I used this to repair a laminated keypad ribbon cable in a microwave that somehow got a melty trace. I also used it to repair the damage I did trying to fix the problem before i knew this product existed. It will now and forever be a part of my electronics kit. Perfect for membrane trace repair!Adhesion is good on plastic. The output width is about 2mm. It's a fluid but not super runny, especially after the solvent flashes off. Build up a couple of coats for best conduction.It takes a minute to get used to dispensing the material. The pen uses a plunger valve tip that has to be pushed against the surface before flow will start. You control the flow with how hard the tube is squeezed. Wiping the tip after every lift-up makes things go smoother.

I've been using these to repair the plastic membrane sheets of my IBM and Unicomp Model M mechanical keyboards for several years and have gone through at least three so far. The silver pens are expensive, but I read somewhere that it's best to keep using the same metals throughout, so I buy those.They're not the most intuitive to use, so you should make sure to try it out on a piece of scrap paper or something you're not afraid to ruin to get the hang of it. Always make sure to give it a good shake first (like a paint marker) and squeeze the body while laying the ink down. And if you mess up, even after it dries, it's easy to scrape away with something like a screwdriver or an exacto knife, at least on smooth plastic.My picture is of some traces I repaired on a Model M membrane. I accidentally scraped them off while cleaning away a nasty stain and fixed it using this pen.

Repaired a corroded circuit board on a rowing machine, my first time using this product.Pro: Saved me a lot of money by not having to buy a replacement monitor for my rower.Con: Difficult to use. Comes out in a thick line or blob that isn't detailed enough for use on a circuit board...I didn't get the board perfect as a few lines of the LCD display aren't working, but it at least turns on and works now.Tips: Check each trace for continuity with a multimeter before assuming it is bad, there were several that were visibly corroded but still had continuity so didn't need repair.After repairing a trace, if you still don't have continuity, check continuity to each side of your repair to figure out where the issue is.Use something fine pointed like a toothpick to dab it where it needs to go and scrape off any excess.

I was trying to find a contact link to vendor...I purchased a replacement for the 1st nickel pen I bought in June. I used the first one, ONE TIME TO DRAW A 2 inch line, and then put cap back on. The next day it clogged and I cannot use the pen at all. There is no dried paint on tip, point spring works, and tip goes in, but no paint flow....I bought replacement which had same result withing 30 minutes...use once, put cap on and stood in a pen cup, upright, and the go to use 30 mins later, and CLOGGED, no matter how hard you squeeze, shake, etcI cannot resolve, its a useless product. gave them a second chance, and same crap.AND ITS NOT RETURNABLE? I DEMAND VENDOR CONTACT MEI have an Ausbond copper pen for 7 months, working fine still

Used this to fix worn down contacts on a super Nintendo controller and worked great.

Exact fit thanks.

I was working on a Turbo Express system with non-functional buttons. The capacitor on the controller board had leaked and dissolved the carbon traces for the buttons, so I purchased this carbon ink to see if I could use it for a more 'authentic' repair rather than jumping the traces or replacing the board in its entirety.After practicing drawing a bit on some regular paper, I cleaned the traces thoroughly, took a bit extra off the damaged sections and contact points and carefully applied the carbon ink. Most went on pretty easily (follow the instructions, they are helpful) however there were a couple spots where I flowed a bit too much and had to clean / reapply. Overall, it took maybe 15~20 minutes to read the instructions, practice a bit and perform the repair / get it how I wanted it (this being my first time using conductive ink, so next time it shouldn't take as long). My repair is barely noticeable!Most importantly... I let it dry for 10 minutes and tested everything out, and all buttons worked perfectly!This stuff is a God send. Follow the instructions and it really isn't difficult to properly apply... Make sure you thoroughly clean any surfaces you plan to write on, and remove a bit extra from damaged sections and contact points of existing traces, squeeze the pen firmly but not excessively while applying pressure to the ball point and use deliberate motion...Great product!

Used it to successfully repair several ZX81 ribbon cables. The dispenser tip may be fine for the silver and carbon versions of this product, but the silver version it doesn't work very well, hard to control how much is dispensed. So....after shaking vigorously, just remove the cap by turning it CLOCKWISE (backwards from the normal unscrewing action), then use a toothpick to get whatever amount you need, and dab it onto whatever you're repairing. Don't leave the cap off long, as it can dry out.

This just saved my stream deck from death.Laid it on fairly heavily over a broken trace for the keyboard membrane. Testing conductivity a few hours later it did not look promising. Testing provided no improvement. So I put it in to the pile of disappointment and sorrow. A few days later I thought lets try it again but low and behold it was working! I guess it takes a few days to properly cure.Phew. £140 saved!

Very useful. It is just like a correction pen.But when I used it, soon the tip got blocked and no more ink was flowing. So I had to cut open the body and use a small stick to scoop the ink and paint.However, ink is good, dries fast, sticks well on plastic surface.I ordered it to repair keypad of an old spectrometer. We saved around 1-2,00,000 rupees.

I had a A1048 keyboard that had two broken keys, and I was able to redraw the traces on the Mylar PCB using the pen. The nickel coating is easy to scrape off for the first few seconds, so you can fix some minor mistakes, but you’ll have to be quick because once it dries, the nickel is on there for good. The pen is confusing at first to use, since you have to squeeze the center while pushing down on the pen (there’s a little metal pin in the middle of the tip), but it isn’t bad once you get the hang of it.

expected this to be conductive like the description said. But it's not. It has resistance. So not suitable for what I needed, repairing broken circuit traces. This is similar to the carbon in a solution products you can buy at car shops. Not recommended. But it does dry quick.