1.75mm & 2.85㎜ Filament Connector | Easy Operate Filament Welder Splicer for 3D Printer | Filament Fuser Joiner for PLA/ABS/PC/PETG/TPU Filaments

I own a 3D Printing business running 30 printers pretty much non stop 24/7. I've been wasting a TON of filament as most of the products I sell use more than 50g of filament. So when a roll get's low I just chuck it. while I do have a lot of prints that use less, it's just too big a hassle to swap out a running roll for a roll that is low for a short and quick print. Over the last month I've been setting aside the low rolls with the intention of figuring out a way to reuse them. In the last day I was able to take the scraps and turn them into 2 full rolls ready to go. This was the solution. Not only does this save some money, but it's sooo much better for the environment.I've tried other DYI methods of splicing filament and am a bit familiar with how it works so I knew what I was getting into with this. I was pleasantly surprised with how well and easy this worked.I'm using mostly Duramic PLA Pro that prints well at 215-220C, and that's what my experience is based on so far, but I suspect my method will work for any filament that prints between 200-220. Here's how I do it:Turn on the splicer and let it warm up for 3 minutes. while it's warming up, cut both ends of the filament to be spliced nice and square and straighten out the ends of the filament with about 1" straight on both. Once 3 minutes is up, turn off the splicer and immediately open the clamp and put one end of the filament in the middle of the clamp (in the center of the metal heating part). Close the clamp and then push the other filament end into the other end of the clamp till you feel it touch the clamped filament. With both hands push both ends of the filament together about 1mm, you'll feel them mushing together, you don't need to push mush, just making sure they're well contacted. Now let everything rest and cool. Be sure the clamp doesn't move around (I just use a vicegrips on the base to weight it down and position the rolls so they're not pulling on it, this takes a little fiddling but isn't hard). Cooling is the key, let it cool for like 8-10 minutes. Then just open the clamp, pop out the line and you can tear off the little wings that might be there with your fingernails. Then a little sanding (I use 220 grit) and you're good to go.So far this has worked great for me. I'm hoping the splicer holds up, and will update the review if it doesn't.

I'm not quite sure why people are saying that it doesn't work well or doesn't work at all with PETG filament. I followed the incredibly easy 5-step instructions and I was able to splice a piece of PETG with zero effort. I powered it on, set the timer for 3 minutes, once the timer went off I removed power and opened and inserted one end in the middle of the clamp and closed, then I inserted the other end to be spliced through the opening and pushed together with very little force. After about 4 minutes I opened the clamp and BOOM, perfectly spliced PETG rolls.My recommendation for getting a perfect splice with little touchups needed is to use very little force when pushing the to ends together. On my first attempt, I pushed both ends in with a fair amount of force because I was worried that the reviews were correct about PETG so I wanted to give it the best possible chance. Well, it turns out that I used too much force. When I removed the splice I had a beautifully splice, but there was a thin pancake of filament around the splice from where it began to push out of the clamp. Nothing ever leaked and the pancake portion was incredibly thin so it was easily removed with a craft knife and 5 seconds of sanding. On my second attempt, I pushed with far less force and this time it came out perfect. Pulled on both ends with a LOT of force and they stayed together with ease.Very easy, very efficient, and HIGHLY recommend.Thank you!

It reminds me of the old days splicing audio tapes, except you're using a hot glue gun.The pros? You can use all your old fiber end rolls.The cons? As mentioned in the subject line, it takes several attempts to get it right.The directions only give you the basics.Having the correct heat before starting is critical. Another critical thing is timing. Don't think you can take your time with this. Once you put in the filament, the process needs to happen fairly quickly. Remember, filament will loose its shape quickly. In addition, once you push the two filament ends together, kill the heat! The tricky part is placing each filament in the center of the heater before closing. Something else to remember, don't take it out too soon or you'll have a wisker mess all over. Last thing, the plastic test pipe is kinda useless for a production splice. You can only use it for a test splice. Last but by far not lease is the final sanding of the splice. The splice needs to be thin enough to go through the feeder tube but strong enough to go through the feed gear.Bottom line, if you're an experimenter you should be able to handle it, but if your a novice you could get frustrated.

It is easy to use. I even use it to "weld" necklace backs together that are not the "correct size". The number of uses for this is amazing.However, it scares the crap out of me every time I plug it in. I finally bought an extension cord with an on/off switch. I shut it off. plug in the tool and then turn the extension cord back on. This way it doesn't arch but everyone needs to know that this is a very real issue. Don't worry, I tried to plug it in without the device attached. Same result. I used different outlets. Same arching issue. I have a soldering iron and heat gun that I plug into the outlet with no arching. I tried everything I could think of to prevent arching. The only thing that has worked is the extension cord with the on/off button. The cord is about a foot long. So it still fits nicely on my desk without making a huge mess.

I have a lot of small pieces of filament that came with a 3D pen. They are too short for any sizeable print on my FDM and I didn't want to waste it so I ordered this. It REALLY works! Once I got the hang of it and reread the directions (I'm a guy; I know!), it does a great job.To help others, do these steps: 1) trim the end square. 2) open the jaws and place the first end in the middle of the element (silver section), 3) slide the second end in until it james against the first. 4) turn the unit on and let it heat for about 2 minutes --you'll learn what amount of time works best for your filaments and climate. After a minute or so GENTLY push the two filaments toward each other--just a little. Dont overdo it. 5) turn the unit off---AND WALK AWAY! 6) after 4-5 minutes open the unit. Be advised that the filament sticks and you'll have to squeeze the handles HARD to open. It's going to pop loud (not going to hurt your ears, just more than you'll expect). The filament will be slightly stuck, so gently pry it off. DONE! You may need to gently sand the joint. Sometimes yes; sometimes no.The only issues I have with it are the sticking (add a non-stick coating manufacturer?) and it is lightweight so it slides around. I'll come up with a way to add traction to the bottom.Overall, easily 5 stars!

I had really high hopes for this thing. At trying the $10, non-electric version which was terrible, I thought perhaps I needed to pay a little more for something that worked. WRONG.Over the course of a day, I tried every combination of heating and cooling times I could think of, while I was doing other 3d printing. None of it worked.The build quality of the parts is entirely fine. The clamp feels substantial in your hand. It definitely gets up to temperature quickly too. The power cord is pretty standard, two-prong.But the actual device does not work. Either it doesn't fuse the two parts or it just mushes a circle of filament or the connection when you pull it out is very small, resulting in breaking.We makers love to buy little do-dads and accessories for 3d printing. Resist the temptation to buy this junk.

I love this thing and it is as easy a 1-2-3!It is a great value . It will pay for its self just in the fact it will let you save this last grams of filament and let you use them. No frills, but more fancy than other “hold your lighter up” and burn yourself.This is worth it! Do yourself a favor and grab one!

Red VS BlackRed doesn't use parchment paper. This may prove to be a bad thing after extended use, due to build up of filament on the clamp. Having said that, using parchment paper with Black is a little tricky. I now know why so many reviews comment on needing the 3rd hand. It takes a bit, but after a few attempts, I was getting it with minimal trouble. Black comes with standard paper clamps which are essentially useless, they tend to slip and release the filament, messing up the weld positioning. I'm surprised the manufacturer didnt 3d print some small U clips. Took me 30 minutes to draw something and have it printed. These work MUCH better than paper clips.Red has a stand. VERY convenient, especially considering the filament is spooled up and keeps pushing the black over. Not having the clamp level is a bad thing. The filament coming out of the sides gets hot enough to easily deform. I'll design something similar for Black that holds it in position.Black worked quite well with the settings listed (at least for PETG), whereas Red overheated the filament coming from the sides. After the cool down period, the filament had folded almost 90°. This should be an easy enough fix, just have to tweak the timing.Black came out "cleaner" whereas red needed more clean up. This is probably due to the parchment paper. Red comes with 3 files, Black only has 1.Red came with a timer, which was much more convenient than using my phone.Black seems to be built slightly better, but that might just be due to the size difference.Red is cheaper.In my opinion, there isn't a clear winner. They both work as advertised and with a little bit of practice, I think will have similar results. If nothing else, there shouldn't be buyer's remorse wishing you went the other way. HAPPY PRINTING!!Revision: After more experimenting, I'm growing fonder of Red. The omission of parchment paper just makes its SOO much easier. Tip - I coated the business end of Red with a Plastic Repellent product available from Slice Engineering. Hopefully using this stuff will add longevity to Red, as I had my initial concerns as to the parchment paper providing a line of defense. I tried to coat Black with the same product, but I still had some filaments adhere to the clamp, which scared me into resorting back to parchment paper. Only time will tell how many splices I can get from either type, but for now, my go to will be RED. Just easier to use, and it doesnt hurt that its cheaper.

Este empalmador funciona excelente, uní dos filamentos y con la herramienta de lijado queda bien unida y al grosor estandar del filamento. Estoy muy satisfecho con este empalmador

初めて使ったのでちゃんとした使い方がよくわからなかったが、付属のチューブの中にフィラメントを入れ、最初にヒートガンで動かないくらいに付き合わせながら溶かし、それからこの赤いクリップ式に挟み、120秒で設定して完璧にジョイントできました。最初からクリップで挟んでもできるとおもうが、このやり方の方が一発で失敗せずできました。

Works great. Just make sure you follow instructions and cut your ends at 45*

The VIT sport is a good product it's ni easy to work with, duct tape it to your table and experiment with the heating times. So far I like it. It's going to save me time and money. Just to let you guys and gals know that the VIT sport stick together well.

半端に残ったフィラメントがきれいに繋げられましたその後印刷に使いましたが、切れることも引っかかることもなく普通に使えましたこの普通にが大事！