eSUN Carbon Fiber Filled Nylon Filament 1.75mm, PA CF 3D Printer Filament, 1KG Spool 3D Printing Filament for 3D Printers, Natural

Absolutely the best CF nylon for printers that can’t achieve more than 260c on the hotend. It will print at 260c beautifully. Very strong, not super rigid but rigid enough without being brittle. This will actually make your prints practicall and capable of real world applications that require toughness. The finish is amazing and smooth. Feels like denim or cloth. You could also increase the temperature resistance by annealing your prints. Just scale a bit up for shrinkage.But a couple things first. To make sure you have a flawless experience without the hassle of experimentation and waste of time, there are some absolutely necessary things( at least for me)•A cheap enclosure for the printer (it will prevent any warping and help maintain temperature)•Filament dryer. I recommend SUNLU brand. This filament will absorb moisture and it will ruin the print. It can also come moist from the package.I run it at 55c 6 hours before printing and during the whole print. Never have a problem now.•Harden steel nozzle (brass will deteriorate)•Capricorn PTFE tube or all metal hot end.Most under $600 printers are not well equipped from factory with a hotend that can run continuously at 260c without damage because of the ptfe tube that’s Teflon. It’s also a very cheap upgrade. I ran mine all the way to the extruder.•Go to YouTube and watch 3DSOS video on this filament and download his cura profile in the description. This profile is absolutely bulletproof. It’s really just plug and play. I just changed the infill to 100% and that’s it.If you do all this, I can guarantee an amazing printing experience with this filament.I ran this on a Voxlab Aquila and an Ender 3Absolutely no problems whatsoever.I would give it more stars if I could.IM IN LOVE WITH THIS FILAMENT!!But don’t waste your time if you won’t take the necessary steps to make this work. It’s a one time investment that will absolutely upgrade your inexpensive printer and make it print something that’s not just hobby pieces and decorations.Or just get a Prusa printer and you’ll be set

I print a lot of items that have to be functional and durable. I use nylon almost exclusively for surface RC parts. This stuff is insanely tough. Layer adhesion is head and shoulders above any other material I've printed. Of course printing nylon and especially PA6 is challenging and isn't likely to yield good results on an off the shelf bargain printer.I have printed a lot of generic pa6 with no filler and anything large tends to warp a bit. This material from eSun warps far less than the generic 100% PA6.I print this material in a heated enclosure set at 115°F, 265°C nozzle temp and 60°C bed. Pei coated sitting steel bed with dollar store hair spray for adhesion promoter. I use the recommended 0.6mm hardened steel nozzle. The RC car wheels pictures are 0.4mm layer height and so far it's been nearly flawless. I ordered my second spool in less than 30 days...Nylon of course had to be very dry. I dry even brand new spools for at least 8hrs before printing. After drying I print from a dry box with about 10lbs of alumina desiccant inside.Good luck!

Drying is necessary for sure. 24hrs at 50C.Used on Bambu Lab X1C. Prints fine but supports are nearly impossible to remove. You will need an AMS or dual extruder to use a different type of support material. Once bonded, it is impossible to remove without destroying the model.I used a .6 nozzle to prevent clogging. It is still a bit "stringy" but the surface is nice. Very strong parts but again - supports are a PITA and if you need them on your print, I wouldn't use this filament unless you had another material as the boundary layer.

The quality of this nylon is great it functions well and the prints look great with a nice black. It can be a little finicky if you don't have a filament dryer. I use one and it makes it easy to print and the prints come out nice and smooth. No rough textures or anything.

I have a Bamboo Labs X1 carbon ( best if you just want a 3d printer that prints everything and just works out the box) I have tried everything from glue stick- masking tape, and every slicer setting i could think of and everything curled off the build plate. I just got a roll of IEMA ABS CF and it prints like PLA with just a glue stick(honestly i don't think it needs that i just wanted it to work) It seams like it would be tough but if it wont stick to the bed then its pretty useless. Get https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6F86ZF8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title better way to spend your $$

My Ender 3 has the MicroSwiss direct drive kit for the extruder and a 4.2.7 board. I maxed out the stock heating element/software to 260C and am using a Garolite bed at 30C. I'm using a Sunlu filament dryer at 65C and printing directly from that. Using a hardened 0.4mm nozzle so the actual temp is probably closer to 250C due to steel not transferring heat as well as brass.I was worried about the hotend not being hot enough, but the results look fantastic. This specific material had some of the lowest stated print temps for CF Nylon so that is why I chose it.The material itself seems to retain a bit of flex which is awesome as it doesn't seem too brittle.I put off trying out CF Nylon because I was full of fear in how hard it may be to print, but I am shocked at how easy it is. Currently printing at 50mm/s which isn't anything impressive, but all that to say don't be afraid to try it!!!!!!!!!!