KENWOOD KFC-X2C 120 W Max 2.75" 4-Ohms Car Audio Mid-Range Custom Fit Speaker

I bought these as a drop-in replacement for the factory dash speakers in my 2013 Toyota Tundra. The only sort of difficult thing I found was that there isn't an aftermarket wiring connector so I had to reuse the factory connector. Just cut the wires at the solder, then used Solder Seal connectors to attach the provided wires, and it dropped right in with a perfect fit. These speakers are much better than the factory and really make the high range much clearer.

Bought these for my 2018 Chevy Colorado Z71 crew cab with Bose. Crutchfield says they won’t fit but they fit perfectly. With the Bose package there is a 3.5” speaker in the middle of the dash. I put an Infinity Reference 3022 there. Perhaps that is why Crutchfield is confused. Only had these in for two days so not pushing them for a couple of weeks, but I can already tell they are more clear and accurate for miss and highs than what I took out, which were stamped as 3.35 ohms. That .65 ohm does not equate to a quieter signal. In fact, they seem to be the same in terms of presence. 6 7mm bolts for the dash and 2 10mm bolts for the passenger side a pillar (grab handle), and pry up the dash trim. Speaker grills are part of this trim, so don’t try and pry them up separately. I also disconnected my battery before I started. Didn’t want the airbag going off. Hope this helps with your decision.

Nice replacement for my Mach 2.5 door speakers in my 2002 Ford V6 Mustang, To be fair I did have to drill two screw holes because those did not line up perfectly but it was quick and easy. The speakers fit nice, as well as work and sound great! I just bought another pair to replace the two 2.5 Mach speakers in the rear window as well.

Crisp, clear and loud, this is with a small 200W amplifier on a 2018 GMC Sierra.

Just put them in yesterday but so far I have been happy. I am into car audio but am looking to keep the factory head unit in place to avoid losing features and having to dremel out the dash to fit an aftermarket double din. I have ran a JP8 monoblock amp with an "add an amp" adapter. Its pushing a 12" SVR in a 2 cubic foot box tuned at 36. For what it is, it sounds pretty good but the highs are especially weak against the sub. Long term I am adding a dsp/line out converter and a 6 channel amp for the doors and dash and this was a starting point. I was going to do the 6x9s on the front doors first but several people told me to start with the dash so here we are. Amazon told me these wont fit my Canyon but they were a perfect fit. I saw another reviewer with a Sierra or Silverado with the same experience. Most of the GM vehicles from the same years are going to have similar setups. If you have a premium system like the Bose that was available for mine, you will probably have an amp, maybe a small subwoofer but the mounts are usually going to be the same with potential wiring differences. They sound great, much brighter than the factory drivers. I assume after they settle in a bit the sound will continue to improve. These things aren't going to be like bullet tweeters but they do good on the high end and they handle the mids really well also. It definitely brings the stage up higher, I'm not real big on setting up sound stages in vehicles but do like the effect these bring to the table. They are still being powered by the head unit and get substantially louder than the stock drivers. It is a worthwhile upgrade in my opinion and the install is easy. You have to remove the "a" pillars. Thats the pillars that run from the ceiling to the dash and are between the front doors and windshield. On mine the driver's side pops off fairly easily with a plastic trim tool but there is an airbag sensor on it that you have to slide up and off. Its a black rectangle with a wire. Push the back tab of it and slide it up/off. I unhooked my battery just to be safe but I see plenty of people who didn't so that part is up to you, just seems like something easy to do that, if nothing else, eases your mind. The passenger side a pillar has a handle on it that has 2 bolts that need to be removed. You will see two squarish covers over them, use a trim tool, screwdriver (a screwdriver may leave scratches) or whatever you have handy. Each one has a 10mm bold under it, take them out and the pillar should come off easily. If I remember correctly, there was no airbag sensor on that one. There is 1 bolt on each side that was, for me at least, kind on loose already and should be ignored (although I did tighten mine up a bit. The bolts you need are aimed straight down and sort of hidden at first towards the front of the panel for the top of the dash. One on each end, they are 7mm bolts. Take those 2 7mm bolts out and start prying up the top of the dash. The clips aren't too bad. Work your way down. In the middle I had a sensor, the little bit that lights up red when locked. Twist it and pull down, it will come off the panel and let you keep removing it. You will see the speakers now. Each one held in by 2 7mm bolts. Remove those, I have to use a trim tool to pry the speakers look from them settling into place. The wire clip has a tab to push in and slide the connector off. Most people cut it off, I did something that professionals will hate and slid the proper wire from the Kenwood speaker into the factory wire connector and did a whole electrical tape thing to prevent them from shorting or backing out. I am trying to avoid cutting any wires and there is nothing wrong with cutting that off if you prefer to go more clean looking with it. They drop right in and adjust reverse the steps. The old ones fit perfect in the bot the Kenwoods come in, the notch for the bass blockers on the Kenwoods perfectly fit the clips on the factory drivers. Not sure if that was by design but it was nice to have somewhere to put the old drivers. If I wind up selling my truck, I want to be able to return it to factory condition.