Prier 123-4093 500 Series Mansfield Style Stem Assembly for 6-Inch Sillcock ASFP

First, this part was made for a Mansfield "freezeless" outdoor faucet, technically called a wall hydrant. They manufactured thousands of them from 1970 to 2006. They have been obsoleted ever since. But, many homes have them installed, and there is a huge need for replacement parts for them as they go bad. Mansfield was later bought out by a company called Prier. They continue to make and sell replacement parts for these valves. My house is about 30 years old and my Mansfield faucet was leaking badly. I would have replaced the entire valve assembly but I had no access to the valve from the inside of the house. I would need to cut through a drywall ceiling to get at it. The decision was made to attempt repair of this valve to avoid the bigger job of replacing it, then patching drywall and painting. I began by disassembling the valve. When I removed the handle on the old faucet, the screw was rusted on so badly that it snapped off when I tried to remove it. At that point I was committed to replacing the valve stem. The original screw was just a standard zinc plated screw, a bad choice by the manufacturer. The valve then came apart pretty routinely. I used a 22mm 6 point socket and just my hand to unscrew the forward nut. The nut is plastic and I didn't want to wreck the corners using a wrench. The challenge then became trying to find a replacement stem. I tried all the big box stores and hardware stores, without luck. Next I tried Amazon. Trying to figure out what part I needed and to search on was the challenge. I will save you the details but with little to go on, I determined that I had a 500 series Mansfield faucet. I took a chance and bought this part and it worked. The key to determining what part you need is to measure the overall length, then use the table I uploaded and buy that part. Don't look at the "named" length. The named length for this part is 8 inches. There is nothing on this part that measures 8 inches so ignore that descriptor. Only look at the overall length which is 12 inches for this 0093 part. I also bought a new handle as well which came with a replacement screw that I needed. They learned from their mistakes and the new screw was stainless steel which won't rust. However, the new screw didn't want to go in the new stem. Things were sized right but there was no thread in the hole. So if you force the screw in it would kind of self thread, but it will also balloon out the stem which will then in turn make it hard to install the handle. Again, the manufacturer could have threaded the hole but didn't. So I used a 1/4-20 tap to first thread the hole in the shaft. That worked perfectly. The handle screw went right in and held. The valve is working well today. Since I put a lot of research into making this repair, I thought I would share the experience with others who might be struggling with fixing theirs. I uploaded a number of key graphics to help. The new valve stem was not identical to the old stem, but the differences were non-consequential. The key dimensions matched. The valve stem comes complete with everything you need for its replacement. You don't need to buy the o-ring and seal repair kit, or anything else. This stem comes complete. If your handle screw breaks, then I would also recommend buying the replacement handle as well which comes with a new screw. And you might could buy a 1/4-20 tap that you will likely need to thread the stem. They're cheap.

It worked great,Didn’t need help putting back together. It’s not leaking anymore.

The knob on my spigot kept popping out and the stem would rattle if I turned the water on all the way, and in order to turn off the water, I'd have to push and turn the knob to get the end of the stem to reengage with the body and turn the water off. I figured the threads on the end of the stem were stripped or worn, which I saw was the case when I removed the stem. The stem was 12 inches, and based on some reviews of this item and the M-123-0095 replacement, I got this one (the M-123-0093 replacement), and it's 12 inches. So this is 12 inches and I used it to replace a 12 inch stem. Overall this worked ok, except as other reviewers mentioned, the end that the knob screws onto isn't threaded. Maybe that's how the replacement stems have always been? I last replaced one of these 15 years ago and don't recall if the replacement then was threaded or not. The old handle screw was still fine, so before I put the stem into the spigot, I held the stem in one hand and used a socket wrench in the other hand to put pressure on the screw and self-tap it into the stem. Then I took the screw out, reassembled the stem into the spigot using the old packing nut and o-ring, and finally screwed the screw into the stem to hold the handle on. Now the spigot turns on and off fine.

Fit perfect and stopped the leak. Thank you! If you are looking to replace one of these and are clueless on plumbing like myself, take the part to a good local plumbing store. The guy didn't have the part but knew exactly what it was and printed out the part number. I bought two others before this one and they didn't fit right.

Replaced with new stem and zero leaks for the past four years.

The part was easy enough to install. The problem came when i turned the main water valve back on. Water gushed out under the handle. It seems the extension that the handle screws into was too short. I had to remove the handle, shim out the handle and reinstall to allow the internals to seal properly.

To be honest, buying a whole new faucet would be a lot cheaper than replacing the stem, but if your faucet is welded on or in a difficult area to get at, or like mine, you’re not sure how it is attached and don’t want to deal with a water leak, then this is the easiest option for you. All you have to do to remove it is to unscrew the handle and pull this part out and replace it with the new one. The only negative is if you have to replace any of the rubber washers, which you probably should, then you have to buy an additional kit which is a bit pricey. My faucet had a cone shaped washer inserted into the thread packing nut that I was unable to find except in a very expensive kit. I realized after I put it together that I may have been able to use the flat washers included instead. I just assumed I had to put it back together the same way... ugh! So be aware of that. Also if you are able to take your handle off and the stem is still in good shape and the brass thread at the end is not stripped, you can just replace the washers. The reason it leaks is because the washers are worn out, also replace the anti-siphon washers on the top. Those are wear out frequently. Anyways, If you buy a replacement handle, like I did because the old screw was rusted on and broke and I literally had to cut the handle off to get this part off, you will find the screw does not screw in all the way. Someone suggested drilling a bigger hole. I wouldn't attempt it because it is copper and very soft and thin on the end and you could damage it. You may be able to force the screw in cuz it's copper, but you will never get it off. So I just put a few washers on the screw to fill the gap and it worked perfectly. I have included a copy of the faucet specs so you can find the correct size. ADDITIONAL NOTE: Lesson learned about anti-siphon faucets. If you replace the washers when they start to leak, instead of waiting over 25 years like I did, you will save yourself some money as the washers are a lot cheaper than a whole new faucet or stem -- and a lot less aggravation.

In the description it mentions "Pre-tapped (threaded) for the handle screw". *This is incorrect, as it has no threads for the handle screw. I'm going to tap(make threads myself), but this is a major pain for me. I'm not happy, as I even called the seller who said it has the threads. I called to make sure because I read some other reviews that mentioned they didn't have threads on theirs. The seller said they probably received a factory defect that might have been on a few, but sounds like there is a bigger problem here? Buyer Beware. Thank you. UPDATE: Ok, so I read in the reviews somewhere that because of the soft copper opening, you can use a socket wrench and carefully drive the handle/nut screw into the copper end opening. This worked easily for me. *Of course this doesn't change the fact that in the items description it is wrong to say it is "threaded"...so this needs to be changed. thanks again.