Beck/Arnley Beck Arnley 045-0253 PCV Valve

Qualité laisse à désirer, fuite.

very good quality, easy to install, great product

I'll admit after reading the negative reviews I did my own blow test and was concerned it wasn't a one way valve. After doing my own research, I found it's not a check valve, and only needs to close for high pressure situations like a backfire. I'll blame the manufacturer for not adding a paper note in the box explaining this. I'd also recommend anyone buy from the "used like new" section, its probably a return from a misinformed person.Here's one of the examples:One way to check whether a PCV valve is functioning is to remove it from the hose or tube and shake it. If you can hear a metallic rattling noise, it's likely in good working order. If you do not hear anything when you shake the valve, it is likely that it is no longer opening and closing like it should.No one indicated it should act like a check valve. This thing certainly rattles. And it's working in my NB2 Miata.Get a new gasket when you order this.

I saw other bad reviews mixed with good ones, thought I'd run the gambit and see. When this Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve (PCV valve) didn't operate as a one way air valve (tested by blowing air in each direction through it) I pulled it apart to figure out why.The two plastic housings seemed to be glued together, required some force to get them apart.Here's the parts list in order of what I found starting from the engine intake side moving towards the engine valvecover (left to right in first image):1. Light colored plastic housing half2. Small spring3. Metal washer4. Metal valve core5. Dark colored plastic housing halfI see two main issues with this valve:1. This design does not have a second spring like most PCV valves I've come across before. Usually between parts 3 and 4 in the parts list above there would be another spring intended to keep the PCV valve normally closed. The lack of this spring reduces the force between the valve core and the plastic housing, that force is what usually works alongside the force from air also pushing on the valve core to create a good seal preventing air from moving through the valve and into the crank case.2. The seal created by the valve core and the plastic housing is well... not a seal. Note the stamped face containing lines and numbers on the end of the valve core shown in images 2 and 3. These raised features prevent the valve core from sitting flat on the inside surface of the plastic housing thus allow air to pass right on by.I tried 3 things to see if I could improve this design:1. Adding oring between valve core and plastic housing made some difference but did not fix the issue2. Filing the raised features off of the valve core made the most difference but still did not fully seal the valve3. Adding oil inside and heating the plastic housing to 130 degrees fahrenheit seemed to make no differenceWhat I think this valve needs:The only way I was able to get this valve to mostly seal was by filing off the raised features on the valve core and using a strong magnet to simulate the force of the aforementioned missing second spring. Even then I didn't get a complete seal but it was much better than before modification. I think this valve needs that missing spring and a better match between the sealing surfaces of the valve core and the plastic housing. Perhaps even a thin rubber washer or very soft oring to take up any imperfections.Speculation:Maybe this valve was intended to use an interior taper of the plastic housing to mostly seal around the valve core in the closed position? I can contrive a way in which worn tooling could result in that taper widening during production and no longer sealing, however I suspect such a design would stick closed quite a bit. Maybe the vacuum in the intake is enough to reliably un-stick a design like that? Sounds like an unreliable design to me based on the tight tolerance required so I'm assuming a sealing surface created by an interior taper wasn't part of the original design.Ultimately it's clear that the valve I received wasn't subjected to any testing methodology similar to my own. Despite my best speculation I haven't been able to come up with an explanation for how this design could be considered functional that doesn't include either a misunderstanding on my end or a lack of testing on the engineering/manufacturing end.

I bought the more expensive pcv valve in hopes it would work better than the $2 one from auto zone but straight out of the box it failed to seal with air blown in the direction it’s supposed to not allow air through. Appears to be the same quality as the old cheap one as well. It works and my car runs but I’m disappointed it didn’t work correctly. The old one broke while removing it so I’m stuck with this one for now hopefully it wouldn’t shatter into a million pieces like the old one did while removing it. Beck Arnleys grommet for the pcv seems to be decent quality I haven’t had any oil coming out so buy their grommet but keep looking for a better valve.