






🚗💨 Bleed brakes like a pro—fast, flawless, and solo-ready!
The Motive Products 0100 European Power Brake Bleeder Kit features a 45mm threaded adapter compatible with most European vehicles, uses pressurized brake fluid to quickly and effectively remove air and old fluid from brake lines, and boasts a rust-proof design for years of maintenance-free use. Designed for one-person operation, it’s perfect for home garages, professional shops, or trackside maintenance. Proudly made in the USA, this kit transforms brake bleeding into a fast, efficient, and reliable process.


| ASIN | B0002KM5L0 |
| Best Sellers Rank | #21,112 in Automotive ( See Top 100 in Automotive ) #43 in Brake System Bleeding Tools |
| Brand | Motive Products |
| Customer Reviews | 4.1 4.1 out of 5 stars (2,785) |
| Date First Available | July 2, 2004 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Item Weight | 2.65 pounds |
| Item model number | 100 |
| Manufacturer | Motive Products |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 100 |
| OEM Part Number | 100 |
| Position | Rear |
| Product Dimensions | 11.9 x 8 x 6.9 inches |
W**R
Definite Buy! Don't waste money on a mityvac! Get a power bleeder!
I really truly love this device. It is by far both the best and the quickest way to bleed your brakes that I have ever found. I've bought and used every type of bleeder out there, and this style is by far my favorite. I've tried the whole pedal pump method, and let's face it...it sucks. Not only that, but it's actually a good way to kill your master cylinder too! The rod inside the MC is only used to traveling so far, but when you're bleeding your brakes it can easily go too far. It ends up destroying internal seals, and you end up wondering why on earth your brakes won't work anymore no matter what you do. 6 months ago I bought a "MityVac"...worst product ever made! Within a few days it was falling apart, and it honestly just never worked all that well to begin with. It actually snapped in half earlier today. I will say that it was better than bleeding your brakes by pumping the pedal, but not by a lot. The only other method I can really highly recommend for brake bleeding is the gravity method. It works wonderfully in almost every situation. I can't say for sure how it works with ABS systems without a scan tool, but it works great in pretty much every normal situation you can think of. The problem, however, is that it takes forever! It's literally a 12-24 hour long process to gravity bleed your brakes. On the plus side, you only need to be there at the beginning and the end, but still... The Power bleeder...requires the absolute least amount of effort, and you can bleed your brakes in like 10 minutes. You fill it up with fluid. You pump up the pressure, and you go around the car cracking each bleeder screw one at a time. The best part? You don't have to keep an eye on the fluid level. You don't have to go add more every few minutes. You don't have to go through a whole setup process at each wheel. You've got pressure going to all 4 wheels, so crack any one of them you like. Actually, you have pressure going to the master cylinder outlets too for that matter! I did a really half...you know what...job of bench bleeding my new master cylinder, but the power bleeder worked just fine with it. I just used the power bleeder to bleed the MC in the car by cracking the line open for a few seconds before moving on to the wheels. It worked great, and I've got a perfectly firm pedal after maybe 10 minutes of work. I can not recommend this product enough! DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON A MITYVAC!!! GET A POWER BLEEDER!!!
C**I
Best tool for brakes ever.
I have no idea why I didn’t get one of these sooner. Amazing, efficient, and makes brakes a one person job. Can be a bit messy until you get the hang of it. But amazing.
J**8
A+ saves money with brake fluid bleeding
The power Bleeder works well and saves money by doing it yourself. Good for a brake flush. I would augfest getting a catch bottle made by motive also to hook into caliper bleed screw.
P**T
A disappointing experience with Motive Products and Unhelpful Customer Service.
I recently purchased a brake bleeder tool from Motive Products, hoping it would ease the task of bleeding my car's brakes. Unfortunately, my experience with their product was far from satisfactory. The tool was defective right out of the box, leaking and rendering itself completely useless for the task it was designed for. This failure not only wasted my time but also put a halt to necessary maintenance on my vehicle. Seeking a resolution, I reached out to Motive Products' customer service, only to be met with responses that were as disappointing as the product itself. The support was unhelpful, dismissive, and ultimately, did not offer any form of resolution to the problem at hand. They even had the audacity to imply that the fault was mine for eventually opting for a more affordable, yet fully functional tool from another company, underlining their product was superior because it wasn't a "Chinese knockoff." This defensive stance, combined with a lack of accountability, speaks volumes about their disregard for customer satisfaction and support. To add insult to injury, their response was condescending, suggesting that I leave a negative review for the manufacturer of the faulty tool, even though it was their own product and service that were at fault. This lack of professionalism and responsibility from Motive Products is alarming, particularly in an industry where reliability and safety are paramount. In contrast, I found a cheaper and more efficient alternative from another company that performed the task flawlessly, without any leaks. This experience only highlighted the stark difference in quality and customer service between Motive Products and their competitors. I strongly advise against purchasing products from Motive Products. They not only sell faulty equipment but also have a customer service department that refuses to acknowledge or rectify their shortcomings. It's clear that their priority is not customer satisfaction or product reliability. Save yourself the time, money, and frustration by looking elsewhere for your automotive tool needs.
M**S
Nice Product
I just used this and the companion bleeder bottle to change out the brake fluid on my VW Tiguan. I have never done this before, but found it to be straightforward and not all that difficult. From the YouTube videos I watched, I knew you don't really need these things, but they make it a lot easier and less chance of messing things up by getting air in the master cylinder. Some points: 1) As the top comment says, there is no swivel between the cap and the pump. You should have the adapter part fairly snug with tape on the fittings (same as you would use in plumbing) before you put it under pressure. I only did it hand tight and did have some minor leakage (no big deal, just put a paper towel under it). When you put the cap on the fluid reservoir, you have to turn the whole bottle along with it. Not too much of a problem without fluid already in it, but a bit of a pain if you dumped a bunch in. 2) Things you will need besides this and brake fluid: Lots of paper shop towels. Brake fluid is nasty stuff. You want to clean it off off any surface or yourself quickly. A cheap turkey baster. Get the old fluid out of the reservoir and have a bottle to put it in. Denatured alcohol. This is stuff you find in a Home Depot paint section. Use it to clean the bleeder and the bottle. The directions make a point of saying to use that instead of brake cleaner.
J**R
An exceptional quality tool
I'm going to do two reviews on this: initial impressions, and impressions in use. All the car nuts reading this know what this tool is for, but maybe you're looking for a gift for a car nut (hint: this would be a really good one) and you're wondering what this is. Follow along. You have hydraulic brakes on your car, and they are fairly simple things: your foot pushes the brake pedal. The brake pedal pushes a piston in the master cylinder. The piston pushes brake fluid into a series of steel tubes and rubber hoses...which are already full of brake fluid. The new fluid pushes old fluid against pistons at the wheels of your car. The pistons push against abrasive pads. The pads push against steel discs that are rotating (because the wheels of your car are bolted to them) and cause them to slow down and, eventually stop. Good so far? All this works great if the only thing in your brake system is brake fluid...but if air gets in there some of the force of your foot will go into compressing the air instead of stopping your car, which gives you longer stopping distances - not what you want. And air looks for ways to get into your brake system. You, therefore, will have to get it out in a process called "bleeding the brakes." There are three basic ways to bleed your brakes. The "classic" way to do it is to stick someone with a very strong right leg in the driver's seat of your car, while you sit beside your car with a box-end wrench on the bleeder valve at the wheel. He pumps then holds the pedal down, and you open the bleeder valve and watch for bubbles. When that one's bubble-free you go to another. This takes forever to do, you go through a lot of brake fluid, and you wind up owing your buddy a lot of beer. Then there's the "vacuum pump" method. It's the same basic thing as the "classic" way but instead of using your formerly best friend, you use a little handheld vacuum pump to suck the bubbles out of your brake system. I've known a lot of people who tried it this way. I don't know anyone who's actually gotten his brakes to bleed this way. The problem is, the vacuum pump pulls air through the minuscule gap between the bleeder valve and the hose you stuck on it. Which brings us to power bleeding, the method every manufacturer recommends. You get a replacement cap for your master cylinder that has a hose sticking out of it. It is plumbed to a tank of brake fluid that's connected to your shop air supply. You hook it all up, hook a hose to a bleeder valve, submerge the other end of the hose in brake fluid, turn on the pressure, crack the bleeder, then stand back and watch all the worn-out fluid, air and crud get shoved out of your brake system, just as pretty as a picture. Which, as you may have guessed, is why manufacturers like pressure bleeding! The only problem with pressure bleeding has pictures of dead presidents on it: they used to cost hundreds and hundreds of dollars. Then someone must have been in the garden aisle at the hardware store, noticed the pump-up weed sprayer, and realized the same basic device could be used to pressure bleed brakes. Which leads us to the subject of this review. The Motive Power Bleeder is made out of plastic that feels like it's at least 1/4" thick. It has a gauge that seems like it will hold up, a nice-quality air pump, some clear tubing and brass fittings. Included with it is a separate little sack that contains the adapter for your master cylinder, and about a foot of hose to shove over the bleeder valves and dunk in brake fluid. You can't lose the instruction book because it's printed right on the container. In all, a very nice presentation. This comes in several models. The difference is the adapter. If you get the wrong one don't worry, they sell adapters separately. Once my new master cylinder gets here I'll review this thing's performance. The quality of the product, and the other million glowing reviews of this thing, make me hopeful.
A**9
Pricey, But Makes Brake Bleeding Much Easier
This item works very well. I initially bought it to help me bleed brakes when I'm by myself. However, I find it easier to use even when you do have help. Since you can put up to two quarts of brake fluid in the tank, you don't have to worry as much about drying the master cylinder. Since it is under pressure, it will continue to push fluid into the master cylinder reservoir and keep it topped off until you are done bleeding/flushing. I originally got this kit for my Volvo. I ended up buying a Power Probe BA10 adapter for my Toyota. It works well. Only problem is you should be prepared to buy more pvc tubing: the pvc tubing that came with it is brake fluid resistant but is expensive to buy as replacement/add-on; regular pvc tubing works okay, but you'll probably only get one bleed out of a length of it. So you should factor in the cost of replacement pvc tubing and additional adapters and fittings for other cars as consumables.
Y**P
Had some issues with 2006 Audi A6 C6, but ok with 2001 Audi A6 C5
Worked very well on my brother's 2001 Audi A6 Quattro 2.7T V6. Cap was tight and right size, kept pressure most of the time. But then I tried changing brake fluid on my 2006 Audi A6 Quattro 3.2 V6. It was a MESS! The cap seemed same size as my brake fluid reservoir cap and screwed pretty good on the reservoir. Though, if I tried to screw it even more the cap would pop back up and become unscrewed. I screwed it back til I felt it was tight enough without over screwing it and I started pumping air to about 20psi to test out leaks. Everything looked fine and I started pumping fluid. At first everything seemed was going fine. But then cap popped up from under pressure and all the fluid started coming from the sides, dripping on my firewall and driveway floor. I had to unscrew the pump to let the pressure out, to stop the flow. I tightened the cap again, cleaned the area around and started pumping pressure again. Same thing happened the second time. After that I figured to get little pressure in the tank and unscrew the bleeder screw/nipple on the brake caliper to let the fluid out and then pump some more pressure. This way it would have less pressure on the cap and reservoir. And when I screwed the bleeder screw/nipple to stop the flow, I would unscrew the pump to let the pressure out and keep the cap free from pressure. I repeated same procedure for all other brakes. Worked pretty well. Here are some bleeding sequence and instructions for Audi's with ESP: Apply 28 PSI pressure to brake fluid reservoir and open bleeder screw/nipple Bleeding sequence for left and right hand drive vehicles 1 - Left front brake caliper 2 - Right front brake caliper 3 - Left rear brake caliper 4 - Right rear brake caliper - Bleed until brake fluid escapes with no bubbles and foam. - Close bleeder screw. Overall, the product is made very well and sturdy. Not going to break any time soon for sure. I wish they would have made the pressure tube and adapter with quick release coupling instead of screw in. It was a pain to screw the cap onto the brake fluid reservoir or to adapter and rotate the whole pressure tank. The tubes are long and not really flexible so you have to turn the whole together to just to screw something in. It comes in nice packaging, with instructions written right on the pressure tank. Really handy and nicely placed when you need them and you will never lose them. Bleeder tube comes included but it was too big for my brother's front brake calipers. Good thing we had some smaller tubes.
Trustpilot
1 day ago
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