PAC SNI-1 Noise Isolator, 1 Count

I just finished a massive stereo upgrade in my truck that included ripping out the ENTIRE interior, installing sound deadening materials and re-wiring everything. I installed a high-end touch screen head unit, component speakers up front, coax in back, wired up for a sub (to be installed later) and included an Infinity Reference Series amp. The first time turning it on I was so thrilled with the way it sounded! I spent a few hours tweaking and adjusting the inputs and levels to get it just right. What an upgrade to the factory system!Until I turned on the engine...All of the awesomeness disappeared in a flash when I heard the loud hiss and whirring noise in the background as soon as I started the engine. I felt like all my effort was for nothing... I pulled a bunch of things apart, testing various connections and ensuring that I had good grounds everywhere, etc. After a couple of hours of swapping cables and trouble-shooting (including testing voltages across various ground points, etc) I finally gave up and decided to "punt" and install ground loop isolators. These are usually a "last resort" because they typically attenuate the signal coming from the head unit and there is a discernible loss of sound quality in higher end systems.After a bit of research I decided on these PAC units - mostly because of positive results being reported, but also because of their reasonable price (some other units I considered were $50 each).They took just a few minutes to install to the head unit and I hesitatingly turned the stereo on (without the engine) expecting to hear a dramatic loss in sound quality. I was THRILLED to find that I could not tell the difference with the typical music I listen to (reggae, jazz, classic rock). I didn't even need to tweak to EQ to maintain the natural sound I had before.This seems to be one of those rare cases where the manufacturer's marketing hype actually seems true - they totally eliminated my engine noise without creating a discernible change in sound quality.

Worked great. Price was right

Solved the ground loop issue I faced when installing an Atoto F7WE via preamp outputs to the factory pioneer amp in my son's ES300. Definitely worth the investment.

I purchased a small, 40w amplifier to drive the two rear 6x9" speakers, each in their own enclosure, in my '85 El Camino. The amp was mounted under the passenger seat, and I ran a 6' or 8' rca type phono cable from the Alpine AM/FM CD player's preamp outputs to the 40w amp, under the carpeting. The phono cable I used apparently was not very shielded- it was from my home stereo system so did not have to be. The rear amp worked fine and sounded great, until I started up the car and went for a test drive, where I was disappointed to hear squealing and popping coming for the rear speakers. The front speakers played fine like they always had. I did some more troubleshooting and determined that noise was most likely coming in via my unshielded phono cables, which I did not want to remove. I did some research and came across this noise isolator, and decided to give it a try as it was fairly inexpensive. The long and short of it was that it worked and I have a normal sounding stereo. I did have to connect the two wires to each other and then to ground. Also, the noise isolator needs to be mounted at the remote amplifier, not near the deck, which makes sense since the noise is coming through the phono cable. That being said, the rca connectors will not work without having some adapters to change the sex of the plugs/ jacks around, since they are reversed from what they need to be. That is why I did not give it 5 stars. I am guessing that most folks would have problems similar to what I did due to using poorly shielded phono (RCA) cables between the deck and the remote amp.

Used it on a video game and it sounds better, less buzz etc.

I used this to fix an issue I had with speaker thump/pop when I power off my aftermarket car stereo. I connected it to the subwoofer-out RCA connector of the stereo. I also have a 12v to 5v step down converter but that wasn't enough to fix the pop. My car is a 2007 Mustang GT with Shaker 500.

It cut out like 30% of my loop noise but it also cut 30% of my signal level coming from the line out on my stereo so umm honestly not sure if it should even get 3 stars but not completely sure if its the device fault or not.

It worked great for my application. My alternator whine was unbearable. I can say now that I can at least enjoy my music. I only installed the RCA portion of the unit. Keep in mind I’m only using these until I buy a few double shielded RCA cables for my build.