440-B Gasket Sealer and Belt Dressing, 8 oz

I needed a belt dressing for an old belt-driven lathe. This is it. It goes on fast and is ready for use within an hour. No slipping and the built-in dauber works perfectly.

I've been using this stuff since 1978 when I rebuilt my first VW engine. There it is used as a sealer between the alloy case halves of the VW engine, but I use it also as a gasket dressing on carbs, water pumps, etc. I put a thin film on both gasket sides and it will not only hold them in place during assembly, but also provide a superior seal. Also, if you have to disassemble something down the road, the gasket can most times be saved and reused.

I have been using Gasgacinch as a gasket sealer for almost 50 years. It has light but effective adhesion and is very easy to remove when taking off old gaskets. It is my favorite gasket sealer and I use it on almost all my gasket surfaces.

I have been using Gaskacinch for a very long time, since an old school racer buddy of mine showed it to me back in the day. It works extremely well, especially on cork or dry fit gaskets. One can lasts quite a long time and a lot of projects. Now that I am the 'old school guy' I have shown this to a number of other folks too.

Rebuilt a couple New Process 205 and Dana 300 transfer cases with the new style pre-cut gasket material that comes in nearly every Spicer, Dana and NP rebuild kits. Discovered the hard way that gear oil will leach right through the new gasket material and wick out the edge of the gasket material after the parts are bolted together. Try using this stuff by coating both sides of the gasket material completely and the inner and outer edges, basically you want to saturate the gasket fiber material with the Gaskacinch and let it tack off (solvent evaporate out of it. Also coat the parts you are using on either side if the gasket, ie. cast iron transmission, aluminum adapter etc. and let that tack off too. Then assemble the parts and normal and you may see some Gaskecinch wick out the edges like a sponge which is good. Let it set overnight to cure before adding trans fluid or gear oil. Its a pain to paint this stuff on and wait for it to dry, but nothing compared to pulling an SM4645 and NP205 by yourself to do it all over again. The new gasket materials seem to be made out of some new substance, likely more environmentally friendly that doesn't work worth a you know what at keeping fluids inside the gear cases. Try to install the gasket just one time, if you touch it to the metal part one time by mistake, it will pull the adhesive off like rubber cement and you will have to reapply and wait again for it to flash off.

good stuff holds gaskets in place

This is the original Gasgacinch, a light sealant/adhesive perfect for holding gaskets in place before final assembly. It's especially useful for securing those formed rubber gaskets on removable covers, like motorcycle valve covers or similar engine top covers. Read the instructions! You put a light coat on both surfaces, and Let It Dry some before assembly. Also, given its very thin nature, it's far less likely to obscure little oil passages in your engine, unlike that gross silicone sealant which is not meant for that job.

When replacing the cylinder head covers on my VW Vanagon, it's nearly impossible to hold the gasket in place when installing the head covers. My first tries resulted in oil leaks. I purchased this, cleaned the head covers and followed the directions and this worked perfectly. Held the gaskets in place during installation and zero leaks after 1500 miles.