Rhino Industrial Heat-Shrink Labels 1/2" Tube Black Print on White

The 1/4 inch works well with 16ga or smaller. For 14ga I would order 1/2 inch. It did work in my Dymo 160

Great product. Works excellent for labeling wires

Okay, so these shrink tube labels are super expensive. I'm going to ignore that because there really isn't another solution that I am aware of that provides this kind of solution in such an elegant and clean way. I purchased the 1" labels because most of the cables that I want to label have connectors on the ends, such as Ethernet and various audio cables. I admit it. I'm OCD. I love having things organized and there is no better way to organize your cables than with these labels. I have a ton of cables in my home office. I'm also in a rock band (I use both the terms "rock" and "band" loosely). I am able to label ALL of my cables with these labels. 1/4" TS and TRS cables are a cinch. All of my Ethernet cables have been no problem so far, even ones with boots on them. (Contrary to other reviews, I believe the 1" labels will work on any Ethernet connection. Perhaps the other reviewers were using smaller labels.) What about XLR cables, you ask? What about other cables with larger connectors on the ends, you ask? I have your solution! I have terrible handwriting and didn't want to use labels that could peel off. So, I found that by using another product in conjunction with these, it is the perfect hybrid approach for larger cables! Get yourself some of these... Monoprice Marker Cable Tie 4 inch 18LBS, 100pcs/Pack - White Check out the photos below for the steps. Basically, cut a small notch at the top and bottom of the shrink tube. Insert the Marker Cable Tie as shown. Shrink the tube, trim the ends of the tube, then attach the zip tie to the cable. It's a great, permanent way to neatly label any cable regardless of how thick the cable or the size of the connectors on the ends. Hope this helps!

I do a a bunch of stuff with electronics and sometimes I'll make jumper wires and it's really nice to be able to label them for what they are (Vcc, GDN, CLK, etc...). This way when I go to hook them up, I can tell which wire is which without having to trace it back to the PCB. I've also found a neat trick where you use a dupont style connector but just the metal part, not the plastic housing. I like to use some black heat shrink around the connector and then some of this label heat shrink around that.

I actually bought a Dymo Rhino 4200 because of this product, although the Rhino has many other features I like now that I have one here. When deciding to buy this labeler initially because of these heat shrink tubes, I used a piece of 3M brand # FP-301 polyolefin heat shrink tubing that is sold as "3/4" as a judge to what the shrink tube labels would fit. It was the only thing I had to judge what "3/4" heat shrink tube would fit. Don't make the same mistake. The actual flattened diameter of FP-301 is actually a 1/4" WIDER than this Dymo "3/4" heat shrink tube, measuring a full inch wide when flat. If 3M were selling this, I suspect they would label this Dymo 3/4" size as their 1/2" size. The FP-301 fits over a great many connectors, such as CAT-5 with no-snag boots, USB A or B, etc. So I figured I would find a lot of use for these. In practice, they do NOT** fit over a USB A or B connector. Nor will they fit over a booted Cat-5. **HOWEVER.........Determined to succeed in my initial reason to consider buying this, I have found that in relatively short pieces (an inch or less) this material can be stretched open quite a bit larger, slid over something, and then will still shrink down to its 3:1 shrink ratio with a heat gun. As mentioned in a comment on one of the reviews already posted, one can use some kind of tool (that guy used scissors) which has smooth edges opposing each other to stretch the tube piece open. I used a very large hemostat, such as those sold to remove fish hooks, and managed to stretch it enough so that it did pass over a USB "A" connector's molded plastic portion, and then shrunk it down tightly onto the "strain relief" tail of the USB connector, where the cable comes out of it. So it can be done, with a bit of ingenuity. :) There is actually a Wiki-How article named "How to Expand Heat Shrink Tubing" that shows this process with illustrations. Ideally, if one had a tool that could expand it without tapering, as the scissors or hemostat do, it would be easier to slide over larger objects. What would be really super is if Dymo, with all the different materials they use for their available label tapes, could come up with some sort of heat shrink tube which is flexible enough to easily stretch bigger after printing from a 3/4" cartridge, and then still shrink down with a heat gun applied, so that larger connectors and electrical cable labels could be produced within the 3/4" maximum width constraint of the Rhino 4200.

I cannot believe I just learned about this! This is absolutely great when wiring a race car.

So these heat shrinks are fantastic and the ability to put them in a regular Dymo is a game changer. Note 1/2” or 12mm is the widest you can go in a regular Dymo Beware though, the sizing is based on preshrunk diameter, lots of bulk heat shrink tube is sold by the final shrunk diameter, if you think 1/4” Dymo will go over a16/18 terminal ring for a #8 screw think again. Yellow tape is the best imo since the label stands out more.

I cannot say enough about how much I like this product. I have several areas I use this in, for labeling a variety of cables, and it performs very well. Having the label permanently wrapped around the cable, instead of a flag, is fantastic. I do not have to worry about my labels coming off or getting snagged when I run them. The white color makes the label stand out, and easy to read. Overall, a great product with a great price point over higher-end professional label makers.