UHHPPOTE Electric Strike Lock for Fire Door Push Bar Panic Emergency Exit

WORKS GREAT

Works great

It failed after 9 months with a fairly lightly used door (half a dozen actuations/day) I tore it apart: The plunger is press-fit into the solenoid. Over the last nine months, the press-fit loosened enough that the plunger fell out of the solenoid shaft and dropped down inside the latch, causing a fail-open condition. I was able to re-press it with a pair of ChannelLocks - not sure if we'll trust it for tonight or not. Of course - I'm part of the problem: I just ordered two more to replace it. After having cut the door frame so ferociously to custom fit the latch, the frame repair to opt for another brand or style would be a LOT more expensive and more work than just buying two more and hoping for nine more months from each. Not sure I'll ever fully trust them again though! Second failing after 7months. If you haven't already cut your door frame, run away from this! ** Update: downgraded to 1 star. On my _7th_ replacement in < 3yrs.

I installed this in a metal (steel) door frame easily, it fit great, installation was easy enough. I cut a single rectangle where the old strike was mounted on the flat steel against the corner, then mounted it and drilled and tapped a couple #10-32 screws in place to secure it. It came fail safe, I converted it to fail secure: after removing four screws to free the mechanism from the housing, then removing one screw (off center), loosening the other (centered one), sliding the loosened screw, and then inserting the removed screw in the other hole. Of course I had to solder & heat-shrink a long cable on to the wires. Then I tested it, at first I though everything was great (door locked, opened when powered, etc...). I have a "gull-wing" steel pull on the outside of my door, this allows a person to get a good two handed grip on the door. With the door securely locked I can pull it open, this is due to a couple of factors mainly the roller portion of the roller strike (I think with a normal solid strike the friction of latch against strike would not result in the frame easily flexing). If my steel frame was more rigid this would probably not happen, but this is a typical industrial steel building (8" Steel Cee Columns beside the steel door frame). Since the latch is curved (like they all are) as you pull on the door the latch pushes the door toward the hinges and latch frame away from the door. A good hard tug and presto, the cumulative flex in the steel adds up to the necessary 3/4" to pop the door open (strike still securely locked and latch too). Fortunately, I have a 1200 Lb. magnetic lock on this door, I will activate that and this will fix the problem.

Very reasonable price… second one I’ve installed… door frame typically needs to be cut for it to fit

Most affordable panic strike I ever used and its working great so far. Not a true flush mount, but most strikes aren't. After some machining of the door frame, it dropped in beautifully and has been working great. Can easily be changed from NO to NC as pictures show. Jason

You get what you pay for. Comparable products are about $300, and this product definitely shows why. Construction isn’t very rugged, had lots of problems with it in the first month that required constant tweaking assembley/disassembly. It works, but don’t expect much

This electric strike mechanism works VERY well !!! I installed two on a new storage building at my business and find it to be practically flawless. Solid construction and simple installation. The only difficulty was that the size of the mechanism is a little large for the one inch width of the raised portion of the door frame. I had to cut a matching slot into the frame but this only took minutes with a portable sawzall. I'm extremely pleased with this purchase!! Don't forget to buy a 12V door access power supply (made to trigger the latch for a programmable number of seconds). I used a generic K80 door access system power supply for around $12. Nice !!!