Great DayLawn-Pro Hi-Hitch - Lawnmower Towing Hitch - Aluminum Construction - Black Powder-Coated Finish, LNPHH650

With a little adaptation, as expected since it is a universal design, this hitch works very well. For reference, I installed it on a John Deere E160 (new version of the L160). Once installed, it provides an excellent higher mount for a ball hitch and a stronger lower mount for general pin attached devices such as yard carts, etc... It also saves wearing the tractor’s pin hole out. Should the hole on the Hi Hitch wear or elongate, just replace it instead of your rear chassis!For my mount, I made a few minor modifications as shown. I wanted the support brackets mounted flat to the rear of the chassis wall as designed.- First, I bolted the main tube to the tractor’s pin/hitch hole, lightly tightening in place.- Second, hold the support bars along the side of the tube to see if the stock holes will work. In this case, they are too high and conflict with the bagger slots. I used the shorter bars. Lining them up with the tube, I marked the tube about an inch and a half below the lower mounting hole. I have a small drill press, so I was able to drill the new mounting hole straight across. If you don’t have one available, try a steel drill guide like the Big Gator V Drill Guide. (I’ve had that one for a few years. It’s incredibly easy to use and does a fantastic job helping drill holes perpendicular to the surface.) The stock holes are larger than the provided bolt which is 1/4”. I used a 1/4” bit so there is no play in the mount. stay below your grass catcher slots so you don’t have to remove the hitch every time you want to bag grass. To bend them and go to the side wall as some suggest puts all the pressure on the back rim of the mounting hole creating a greater chance for the whole to flair or stretch under load.- Third, bolt the supports to the tube and lightly tighten so you can still move them with a little pressure.- Fourth, raise the support to the rear wall of the tractor, same height and distance in from the edges and mark where the mounting holes need to be drilled in the rear wall of the chassis. This will also center your Hi Hitch by default. REMEMBER WHEN MARKING THE HOLES, you will need to fit a washer on the inside of the chassis wall, so leave a little room from the corner. Don’t worry if it takes a little pressure to move the support arms to the wall, they are aluminum and will flex some when you tighten everything up.- Fifth, drill the holes, again with a 1/4” bit to eliminate slop in the mount.- Sixth, I opted to take a piece of the cardboard packaging a cut a small square hole in it, about 1/2”, held this up to the chassis wall and used a Rustoleum paint to protect the metal in the drilled hole. (Not my prettiest paint job but it’s under the mount, so....)- Seventh, I cut a couple small squares of rubber gasket material and put it between the support and the chassis wall. Without it, eventually the supports will vibrate and wear at the paint protecting the chassis. Just me, but it was cheap, quick and easy and will protect the tractor. I used a hole punch to the 1/4” hole in the gasket material.- Eights, the fun part (not so much they say)... several people talked of issues with getting the inside nut on. It took a little ginger maneuvering and, if you have someone with smaller hands it might help, but I’ve got larger hands and was still able to fish the washer and nut on with a couple of tries and no disassembly or lifting the tractor.- Ninth, go through and tighten everything up. Start with the chassis wall bolts (box end wrench inside, socket outside), then the support/tube bolt and finally the mower pin hole bolt.- Last, when I put on the ball, I invested in a couple of 3/4” Grade 8 washers , one on top & one on the bottom of the Hi Hitch ball mount to protect the aluminum.To answer the question I’ve seen and I had before ordering, if you mount below the bagger slots, there is sufficient room to add the bagger without removing the Hi Hitch mount. The ball sits between and just behind the bags without interfering with them filling or being taken on and off.I hope this helps. It is certainly a lot easier to move my 5’x8’ trailer and smaller boat trailer around!!

Installed this a John Deere 318 to move a boat and trailer around the property. As others noted it requires modification to make the side brackets fit. I needed to cutoff the original ends the longer bracket and bend a opposite direction 90 degree and drill new holes. Also had to relocate the bolt bracing bolt hole in the main post. After that it was very solid - moved a 3500 lb 21 ft boat - not recommended but moved slow and it went very smooth, but it is an 850 lb lawn tractor and reasonably flat ground.Main issue is with the "hitch pin" 3/4" hole provided at the bottom of the post bracket - it is so close to the post that some implements no longer work. I also needed a low 2" ball as well for a DR Power grader - You can get a ball into there but then there is no room between the post and ball mount location to place the implement hitch on top of the ball and lock it down. I ended up getting an additional 2" x 1/2' aluminum bar to make an extension and then used the two hole on the post bracket to attach it. Works fine but would have been much easier if the original bottom hitch pin was 1" further from the post.Update- Installed this a John Deere 318 to move a boat and trailer around the property and have loved it!! It recently failed due to a crack near the bottom of the square tube just above the weld that attaches it to the bottom plate. I've concluded that the failure was not a result of towing from the top ball rather from using the lower hitch pin/ball attachment. Since the bottom plate can only be bolted in at one location, any swiveling of the bottom plate torques the square tube and leads to aluminum fatigue. It's very well built, but guess its the nature of the metal. Just a warning if you attach anything substantial at the bottom- Make sure the single attachment bolt to the mower is VERY tight and the bottom does not swivel/twist. I've modified my installation to utilize an additional hole on the lawn tractor to prevent the swivel.

I have a John Deere D120 and this hitch installed easily with no modifications needed. Well constructed. Very pleased so far.

Super pour poser et surélever (environ 20cm) une boule de traction. Fabriqué en aluminium le produit relativement léger est très résistant mais aussi très bien traité contre la corrosion. La conception permet de l'adapter à de nombreux tracteurs. Une fois monté il augmente la rigidité du tablier et il ne nécessite pas forcément de perçage à l'installation.Une notice est fournie. Parfait pour moi , je suis très satisfait.

Works good, had to drill new holes as I have an older model John Deere, sits a little higher than I would prefer but seems strong, towed over 2000 lbs in my trailer.

Fit my John Deere D130 perfectly. No drilling but a tight fit to install the support brackets in the existing mower back plate holes. Thankfully, YouTube videos greatly assisted with the installation. Finish could have been better to remove the small jagged burrs protruding around the pre-drilled holes and the welds before powder coating. Otherwise, a very strong hitch.

5 minute install on my John Deer Lawn Tractor. Good Quality