Xantrex Prowatt SW2000 2000W True Sinewave Inverter Model# 806-1220

Works as intended for use of microwave, toaster oven and fridge while dry camping. Tested with fridge and microwave running & starting/stopping both, did not trip offline, camper lights did not dim or flicker. Tested overload & trip offline function with excessive loading (microwave & toaster oven at the same time, 2800w) and was able to reduce load, reset unit and continue operations easily. Used this with two 300ah batteries. Also tested low battery trip offline by running space heater for 12hrs. Again was able to remove load, start charging batteries and reset inverter with ease. Works well with their remote and automatic transfer switch purchased separately. Would buy again if I had another need.

I see a few complaints in the reviews about having trouble with high-load applications of this inverter. I bought one about a year ago, with the intent of using it to get solar-powered air conditioning in my RV. I made it work, eventually, and the problems I encountered had nothing to do with the inverter (which supplied 1500 watts sustained load and handled the surge of starting the AC, once I got everything else working). First of all, wiring: Everything will tell you that 4 gauge should be more than big enough: Not even close. I tried 4-gauge. Then I tried 0-gauge. Then I tried making the wire runs shorter. Then I started doubling up wire runs in parallel. By the time I was through, my battery interconnects were double and triple 4-gauge in parallel, and the connection to the inverter (coming from the center battery of 5) was 000-gauge (also known as 3/0). Connecting that to the terminals on the inverter required taking an industrial terminal block normally used for substation wiring and drilling a 3/8" hole to connect it to the terminals. Finally I had something that wouldn't drop 2+ volts over the wires when drawing 125 amps. When they say 4 gauge can pass 200+ amps, they mean that it won't melt the wire, not that it will give you a usable voltage. On top of that, batteries: Lead-acid batteries may say they can deliver huge numbers of amps, but not without huge voltage drops. In practice, for every amp you're drawing you want at least 2 pounds of battery (so, minimum 4 size 27 batteries to deliver 125 amps needed for 1500 watts). Try to power your space heater off something you can pick up assisted, and you're just going to get a lot of annoying beeps. And don't forget that after you've drawn off half of the amp hours theoretically available in your batteries, your *maximum* voltage will have dropped to around 11.8 (so battery load and wiring losses will be working from a lower baseline). With 5 type 27's, I could run the original rooftop air conditioner for no more than 1.5 hours before they were too far down to provide 11.0 volts under load. So I figured out a way to mount a modern, high-efficiency unit that provided the same cooling for half the power. The point here is that with a really big inverter, you're pushing 12V right to the absolute limits, and you have all *kinds* of weak points that will keep your system from working properly. These are really intended for big residential solar systems with batteries in the thousand-plus pound range. This inverter works *fantastically* well, now that the rest of the system is properly supporting it, but even for an experienced electronics tech getting all that arranged properly was quite an education.

After living many years "off-grid" in northern Vermont I will say Xantrex offers great inverters! They are high quality and (IMO) are very well priced. Yep- the sine wave power is pure/clean. No interference or "buzzz" with these ProWatt's. They carry a good 2 year warranty with solid customer service. Most inverters only have a 1yr warranty. I have both the ProWatt 1K and a 2K. One of my favorite features on these Prowatt inverters is how quiet they run. These inverters have very rare thermostatically controlled cooling fans that are "variable". They will spool up or down just enough to cover the cooling need which is determined by the load heat within the inverter. Under light to medium loads the inverter cooling fans are running but slow, smooth & with zero noise. This is a big plus because the fans are working even under light loads to keep heat from building or accumulating within the inverter...this steady cooling helps to combat or control sudden heavy surge load heat temps as well. Heat kills electronics so a cool inverter is a happy inverter and happy inverters last! Most all other inverter manufacturers don't have these type cooling fans...most all offer thermostat temp control fans but they are NOT variable and they only turn on when the inverter is working hard and hot. So when the cooling fans are needed which is very often they run at full speed and they are loud. It would be great if Xantrex would offer a 3k or 4k watt inverter in this ProWatt line...I would certainly purchase one or two! I say go ProWatt!

Originally disappointed this would not run my 1100 Watt Microwave in my trailer. Though the batteries tested good at the time about 6 months ago, a recent battery problem showed up with "Thermal Run Away" when my trailers 110VAC to 12VDC Converter/Charger was charging. One of my two batteries overheated and started steaming. This problem did not show up while using my solar converter/charger due to the fact the system has a safety heat sensor interfaced to the Solar Converter/Charger. I assume as the batteries started heating up with the Solar charger the sensor shut down charging. During troubleshooting and trying the 110VAC to 12VDC Converter/Charger I found there was now a battery problem. After replacing both batteries the inverter also now runs the Microwave off this 2000 Watt inverter. I thank to all that commented and sent suggestions: I am now running well with the following configuration: 5 to 6ft of 1/0 battery cable cable, with crimped and soldered copper lugs, between my batteries and inverter. Batteries are 2 x 12V #27 Interstate Marine Deep cycle. These 2 batteries are wired in parallel, and rated at 96AH each which is providing 192 amps (when everything is perfect) My two batteries are connected to a 2 panel 280 watt solar array and 30 amp solar charger. Incidentally for those that want to know. My Microwave, while running off the inverter & battery bank draws 31 amp/hrs (12VDC) on my meter. Though it is a convenience, running the microwave is limited since it will deplete the batteries with any extended use. **************************************************************************************** The first 2000 watt unit I purchased hummed when turned off, with the DC applied. I had tried it on a isolated battery to double check. I spoke to a Customer Service Tech at Xantrex and asked about the hum. This was loud enough I could hear it through a closed cabinet from 5 or 6 ft away. I had re-checked every connection multiple times for something loose. The customer service rep double checked with someone and came back on the line and said this was not a trait of this unit. I asked the Amazon community if this happened with theirs. Some stated "when it is off, it is off". I contacted Amazon to do a return based on this info. They couldn't do an exchange but did say I could get a refund, then reorder the item. I changed my original review rating from 3 to a 4 because this Amazon refund went so smoothly. I had to re-order and the price from the same seller had gone up slightly. It did not raise in price enough to waste more time trying to resolve this to get the original price. The new unit (2nd one) arrived and is installed and not humming. The ease of the return, and the prompt re-ordering process was the reason for upgrading my review from 3 to a 4.

Installed two 2/0 cables from the battery to the shut off also installed a 250 ANL amp fuse., ran 8awg for ground, there is current coming to the unit, but inverter would not turn on., got a dead inverter upon arrival. No Bueno

My Xantrex Prowatt SW2000 true sine wave inverter works well in my application but there are several details you may want to investigate. 1.) In order to handle heavy loads, high-power inverters require high-capacity battery banks and low resistance wiring and connections. 2.) Even the recommended battery/wiring system may not supply the specified voltage to the inverter for the inverter to supply its maximum rated output. 3.) The maximum rated inverter output is lower for motor loads, which are inductive. 4.) You are faced with high current surges associated with motor starting. You may be familiar with some or all of these considerations but I'll give some details. The SW2000 does produce a true sine wave as observed on an oscilloscope. It also maintains the 120 Volts under varying loads. My main application is to provide minimal emergency back up power when the utility electrical service is interrupted. During a worst case scenario test we found that our SW2000 can power our natural gas central air furnace igniter and fan motor, refrigerator, lights, bathroom exhaust fans, and computers -- all at the same time. But, all this does not fully load the inverter -- it only takes it up to about 1200 watts. During an actual emergency, we would not do this -- we would use the appliances sparingly. But, whatever the load conditions, the user's battery supply would need to keep the input terminals of the inverter up to 11 volts to avoid the "low battery" alarm from beeping or, at very least, up to 10.5 volts to keep the inverter from shutting itself off -- these features are designed into the inverter to prevent the battery charge from getting too low. Therefore, to keep the inverter input power terminals above those minimum voltage levels under heavy load conditions, the owner's guide recommends a bank of four 12-volt deep-cycle batteries, size AWG 0 wires no more than 6-feet long, terminal lugs that are crimed super tight onto the wire ends, good condition batteries that are fully charged, and all connections tight. In my own case, I could never expect the inverter to operate near the full, advertised load (1800 watts) because I am only using two batteries and smaller size AWG 2 wire. But, here's a test using a heavier load than what I need: When I start with fully-charged batteries and plug a 1500-watt electric heater into the inverter, my battery/wiring system will only supply 11.4 volts to the inverter power input terminals. After about 15 minutes, the voltage drops down to the 11-volt level and the inverter beeps its "low battery" alarm. After a little while longer, the voltage drops down to 10.5 volts and the inverter shuts itself off. This is important: when the "low-battery" alarm beeped, and later when the inverter shut itself off, THE BATTERIES WERE NOT ACTUALLY LOW and THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE INVERTER. The problem is that my battery/wiring system is not sufficient to support the heavier, 1500-watt load for very long. The specific gravity of the battery acid did not indicate a low charge in the batteries. The inverter was not defective. The inverter only did what it was designed to do. My undersized battery/wiring system only made it look as if there might be a low-battery or inverter problem. The 1500-watt heater overloaded my battery/wiring system. The inverter is OK. The batteries are not low. I can use our inverter-battery system successfully with our usual, smaller load -- like the essential home appliances that I mentioned previously. All of the above is not to say that there can not be hardware problems or exaggeration in advertising. I only mean to help users by conveying some of the pesky details needed to get good results. I wish it were not so ... but ... if I needed the absolute full capacity (1800 watts) of the SW2000, I would not only buy two more batteries and larger wire, but I would buy a different model inverter with an even greater capacity -- maybe 3000 watts continuous. Here's why. The devil is in the details. On page 17 of the owner's guide, the 1800-watt rating is shown in the power output chart along with an input of 13 volts! Wow! Their test facility must have a monster power supply to maintain the specified 13 volts at the inverter power input terminals while loading the inverter with the specified 1800-watt resistive load and while delivering a minimum of 140 amps (1800 watts divided by 13 volts = 140 amps). Sorry, but I have no reason to believe that, even with the recommended bank of four batteries and large wire size, I could ever provide the specified 13 volts needed to produce the specified 1800 watts from this inverter. I would expect my real-world, four-battery power supply voltage to sag down well below the 13 volts due to resistances in the wires, fuses, and connections, as well as the internal resistances of the batteries. But wait ... there's more. In the same chart on page 17, they say that the rated 1800 watts only applies to resistive loads like incandescent bulbs [and heating elements]. But, what if you need to run motors? Then the limitation is 15 amps maximum. If you multiply the output of 15 amps by the output of 120 volts, you get 1800 watts -- but only into a resistive load. However, if your load is composed of one or more motors, you have an inductive load. When you multiply the 15-amp maximum by 120 volts, you get a maximum output of 1800 volt-amps apparent power. If the motor load has an 80% power factor, the maximum real power (to produce work) would only be 1440 watts. Also, motors usually produce a momentary current surge at start-up -- a further demand upon the inverter/battery system -- which it may not be able to supply. I can see why many people are disappointed with their inverters: faulty hardware, misleading specifications, difficult applications such as motors, and inadequate input power supplies (battery/wiring). My personal conclusions: pay really close attention to installation details and buy a substantially over-sized inverter. Good luck.

It's still working after a few months of 24/7 usage, and I can almost get 2000 watts out of it on a good day. It did not work out of the box, the GFCI kept tripping. I had to replace the outlet with a name-brand GFCI, use massively oversized input wiring to compensate for the undersized internal inductors, and install a supercap near the input terminals to allow it to start the same motor loads that a 10 year old Xantrex SW 1000 (half the rated wattage) could start with no problem at all even with a higher cabling voltage drop and no external capacitance. The SW 2000 also gets much hotter than the SW 1000 when powering the same loads. The overload/battery alarm is annoying, some weird increasingly chirping squeaking squawking sound that finally escalates into an actual beeping sound which may either keep beeping and never reset, or it might just stop beeping and turn off and hope you don't notice until everything in the fridge goes bad, and, every once in a while, it might actually automatically reset after it cools down or the voltage goes up. The output waveform is a sine wave, but it's crap. Even with the huge external filter capacitor, tiny fluctuations in load current and power factor really distort the output waveform and rate. Lights flicker, especially LEDs. Expect any line oscillated clocks to lose 5-15 minutes per day, and expect timers to drift. Don't expect to actually get the full rated wattage in the real world for an extended period of time unless you have an air conditioner powered by something else pointed directly at it, but at least the thermal shutdown works before it starts melting through the floor. I was hoping to get a similar build quality to the SW 1000 but with twice the power, and got a lesson about corporatism and profiteering instead. I guess I was supposed to pay 10x the price for a Freedom SW model instead of a Prowatt SW model if I didn't want to feel like gouging my brain out through my eye sockets with a dull spork

Installed in a Marine application. I own a 29 Sea Ray and was looking for an AC power solution while away from shore power. It was between this and a small gas generator (Honda 2000). Having friends with the gas generators, even though they are quiet, I couldn't imagine relaxing with that going in the background. Connected to 3x 31M deep cycle 100 AH batteries in series and 0 Gauge 3 foot connections and a 250 amp fuse as recommended by the manufacturer, this inverter was able to easily power my fridges, fans in the cabin, and cell phones etc, plugged in, very stable power, lasted 6 hours on the water, batteries did not drop below 12.5 volts all day. I did try to push this by plugging in everything I could find, ipad, cell phones, 120v air pump, all at the same time. I got it up to a constant 1500 watts via the inverters panel, which alternates between system volts and output wattage. The cooling fans kicked on for a bit, but was cool to the touch after 15 minutes. After reading some questionable reviews on Amazon for this product, I have to assume people are incorrectly connecting this unit, or are using a power source which doesn't supply enough Amps/Voltage for the inverter to function as its capacity. I am glad I gave this unit a try. Very good, clean power, seems to be very efficient as well. Xantrex knows what they are doing.

Très bonne appareil très solide et fonctionne très bien , puis facile d installation

I use this 2000 watt inverter in my RV when I Boondocking. I use the power from my batteries that is being charged via my solar panels. I do have a generator but it’s so much nicer when you’re camping in the wild and you don’t hear a loud generator running in the background. Very good product easy to install. I recommend this inverter.

Super solid I’m using it on a daily basis in my car I have 3 machines and it’s working perfectly.

As soon as I got my hands on the box, you could see that it was re-packaged. I opened it up and could clearly see that it had been used already. The manual wasn't even put back in it's packaging properly. I was willing to overlook this if it worked properly but I hooked it up and the inverter didn't even turn on. Returned it.

I should have read the more technical reviews here on Amazon. This inverter has been in production for over 15 years with little to no updates/changes in design. This 1800 watt (3000 peak) inverter does not handle inductive loads very well such as my 990 running watt shop vac, where as my old Renogy 1000 watt inverter does. The Renogy is not perfect at starting the vac either, but once running it sounds like household power where the Xantrex Prowatt sounds different. The voltage on the Xantrex drops as load increases. It is down to 110 volts from 120 at a 1700 watt load. Still within specs though. This inverter runs simple resistive loads up to its 1800 watt rating just fine like coffee maker, toasters hair dyers. It barley starts/runs my 700 watt(cooking power not actual power) microwave (which does have a high starting current). Depending on your battery type, cabling size and SOC, when it shuts off due to low dc input voltage it turns back on immediately as voltage recovers then off and on continuously. This is not good for your compressor starting and stopping every one second if you are not there to shut it down. A cheaper technologically modern inverter may probably be better. Hopefully this one is built more robust than the newer ones. It does well for resistive loads. My other cheaper inverter had more peak starting power for inductive loads. You do need more inverter for inductive loads. When they rate peak wattage some companies use 3 seconds at peak, others use 16 -32 ms. Most can hold 10% over continuous rating for 5 minutes. There is no standardization in ratings.