🔧 Power your projects with precision!
The HiLetgo LM2596 Adjustable DC-DC Step Down Buck Power Converter Module is a versatile and efficient solution for managing voltage in your electronic projects. With an input range of 4.0-40V and adjustable output from 1.25-37V, this module features a built-in LED voltmeter for real-time monitoring, making it a must-have for both DIY enthusiasts and professionals.
M**C
Great items
Great product. Used to step down the 15v of my power supply to also provide 12v and 5v power for my train layout.
K**R
Essential for your electronics needs
I use these in so many different applications when I need an adjustable voltage source. Accurate display, switchable between input volts and the adjustable output. Keeps a well-regulated voltage on output.
L**P
They work
Work as intended from what I've done so farMake sure you test the power out before wiring anything up of course.
G**.
Gave 5.1V +- 0.1V with input from 8.1 to 14.5V
This took some fiddling to calibrate both the on-board voltmeter and the device output. But, once done, the stability of the output was impressive.This item is what the hiletgo site calls "LM2596 Step Down Power Module Adjustable With Voltage Meter Display FREE Studs".The left button turns the meter display on/off. The right button cycles between output voltage and some other number which I don't understand - so that's confusing.To calibrate the meter, make sure it is reading the output voltage by comparing with your own voltmeter - it should at least be close. To start with the output voltage will be unregulated. Then long press the right button until the display flashes, after which you can increase with right button and decrease with left button. Long press right button again to save calibration.Now you can use the on-board meter to set output regulation (though I would still do a final check with your own meter). Turn the little screw on the blue box component counter-clockwise to lower the output voltage. This screw can be turned multiple turns. I don't know if it has "lash" but I would fiddle it back and forth to be sure you have a good setting.My only real complaint is the terminal screws were quite hard to turn. You will need a good screwdriver of an appropriate size and some finger strength. The screw-heads seem more of a crossed flat than a real Philips. My son was starting to chew up one of the heads and I had to take over, but I found they really did take a crazy amount of torque.
G**N
Great
Prompt delivery, product exactly as described. Will use this vender again.
M**G
You can't get the world for a $5 board.... So don't expect it.
I have to give some credit to the makers of this board. I have been in Aerospace Electronics for 26 years now. This board hardly comes near a Class III product, but for an average user and small project, it is every bit worth the money. Like "ANY" electronic component, you must burn them in for a period of time until you feel comfortable based on what you are using it for. Before you use it, check ALL solder joints carefully. Do yourself a favor and re-solder the FET. On the underside, you should see almost 100% solder fill underneath the FET which are thermal vias that run through the board and play an important role by keeping the temperature regulated. Once I checked everything, the voltages were right on verifying with a DMM. For $5 each.... you cannot go wrong.
K**E
Garbage. It'd get 0 stars if possible!
Very disappointed, these DO NOT WORK at all!!I'm rigging up a custom soundboard in my son's power wheels and need to drop from 24V to 5V. I did a bunch of research, and although I'm always leary of the poor quality Chinese products on Amazon, I took a shot with these because they seemed to fit exactly what I needed. The input range could handle my (up to) 26 volts coming in, and could put out down to as little as 1.5V. They even had a built in digital readout to save me the step of putting a separate in-line gauge in.I got the first one wired up and flipped on my 24V to test it. On start up it shows voltage in on the display, and it read 26V which was accurate for the fully charged 24V battery. I switched the display to show the output and it showed 20.1V. I then started lowering the output setting to the 5V I needed, but once I got to 7.4V it looped back around to 34V. This was disappointing because it wouldn't work for what I need, but it gets worse. I decided to verify the output with my multimeter, and although it was set to 7.4V, the output was still 20.1V. I tried turning the power back on and off, and changing the display back and forth, but the actual output would not change from the 20.1V. At this point I was pretty sure I bought junk, bur for the hell of it, I decided the wire up the second one to see if maybe I just got a defective unit, but the second gave the same results. This time when powered up it showed 18.7V and would only adjust down to 5.9V, but the actual output wouldn't change from 18.7V.So, not only were these not able to reach the low outputs advertised, there not even adjustable at all. Needless to say these are getting returned. Hopefully I can find something that actually works.
T**
They work as described, they strictly work with DC only, please dont think this is anything else
These are fantastic, I only wish they came with some sort of cheap housing, but most people don't use a shield or housing. They work good, but you need to understand the limits, these are good if you intended output( the device you want to power) is not over 2A of peak or current load, these are good for like, LED's maybe a couple of 12-24 pc fans, but you should not use this for high amperage conditions, this board is not build for it, if you need high power your better off getting a specific PSU like a small meanwell power supply which are usually built for higher power draw. Overall these are fantastic as most don't have a display which this does and you can switch it from input voltage to output voltage so you can dial the output voltage without a multimeter (however if you do have a multimeter which if your doing anything involving a buck converter you should, you can also correct the display voltage on the screen if for say its off by 1 volt or 0.1 volt compared to your multimeter, you can edit the display to correct for the error in voltage and then make it display the true voltage, you should do this the second you get it, but you don't have to as mine was only off by 0.1 volts which is good enough for any application I would need.
Trustpilot
1 week ago
2 weeks ago