POWERTEC120V/230V Dual Voltage Paddle Switch, 3 HP at 230 Volts, UL Certified. Large Knee Paddle for Power Tools Fast Power Off. Fits Table Saw, Router Table, Drill Press, Bench Saw, Band Saw (71007)

Great product. Works perfectly as designed. This is he second purchase. The first works so well, I’m going to use the second one for another machine build.

Received the switch in less than 2 days, it came nicely packaged. Originally bought it for my Router table, but since I use my Table Saw more, I decided to put it on the saw. Installation was easy and straight forward. It works well and is well made. I was concerned there would be flex in the paddle when you hit it to turn off, buy it is nice and solid. I have had PowerTec switches on my Table saw and Band saw for years, just no the paddle ones. The paddle is great, no fumbling around when you are shutting the saw off. Will be adding 2 more, one for my router table and one for my band saw.

Perfect replacement for Delta 36‑725T2 magnetic switch!Fits perfectly in housing. Just make sure to review and follow the included wiring diagram. I made a ‘jumper’ and soldered in place for the mag switch lead to the common prong.Looks and operates just like the original switch.

Buy the deepest widest one gang box to install this and it will still be a struggle.I installed this on my delta contractor table saw, it is cheaper than replacing the factory original, can be installed to be more dustproof and is a better safer product bringing the switch forward and having a larger emergency stop paddle to press. I have had the original parts delta switch fail three times, and for $40 a go I wont buy another.Additional items I needed.Crimping tools set, i crimped terminals on all wire ends to make attaching to the terminals on the switch easier.1 small wire nutA roll of 14 gauge mutlistrand wire to connect the grounds/earth inside the box and back out to ground the saw body.Small Wire nut to connect the grounds inside the box to the wire going outLonger screws to connect this switch to the box, supplied screws were too shortRubber grommets to make the depth box dust tight where you have the cable entryVarious screws nuts and bolts to connect the box to the table sawDrill and drill bits to drill a screw hole in the boxFoam cover from outdoor weather proof box/outlet to make the unit dust proof1/2 in. Or 3/4 in. 1-Gang 18 cu. in. Type-FSC Electrical PVC Box ( I bought the type where it has two conduit holes on one end only. If you get a single conduit hole in the middle of one end there is not enough room behind the switch in the box for the cables to pass behind.

Was not a direct fit for my tile bridge saw, had to manipulate cut out in control box and old switch didn't have the power off relay wire, had to find a compatible terminal small spade connector. It is so much easier and safer now that I no longer have to plug/unplug cord for start/shut down.

I put my first one on my table saw 6 years ago and couldn't believe how much safer it made it. Wish I had added it sooner. But the real cost was for the wiring job. I put a large box on the front of the saw making the paddle easily accessible. And I added a 16 gage extension cord so an extension was never needed again. It took a few hours, trips to electrical supply companies for commercial grade electrical hardware, and $25-50 in hardware. Then again, I dabbled in power engineering in college (i.e. you don't have to do all that). It lasted 5 years (3-4 in occasional weekend use and a year of hard use) before it failed. This replacement is an identical match meaning replacement is a simple matter. So I bought an extra one to have on the shelf. But then again, I might find another tool worthy of a paddle safety switch.Looking at the price I can't complain. And I hope I don't have to test it but reviews say the company replaces infant mortality - devices that fail in the first few months. So let's face it, 20 amps / 2 hp creates a quite an arc when it is switched. The next increment in switch technology that could handle this much power can't be afforded by most people. So this is great value for the dollar. And at the end of the day, <$20 for insurance that I don't loose a finger is worth it.Only warning I would give is that it does not de-energize when power is cut off. You need a more expensive / different switch for that. This doesn't matter that much on a table saw where the impact of it being on when you plug it in will more likely give you a heart attack than present a serious safety issue. But on something like a router table where the router is intentionally left on all the time, this could matter. If the switch is accidentally left on, it could power up when plugged in or come back on if there is a temporary loss of power when you are expecting it to be off.

In high school when I took shop class the shop teacher made up these plywood paddles so you could hit the off switch quickly with just your knee for the low switches. The switch for my old delta Unisaw was hard to find the off button especially when cutting a sheet of 4x8 plywood. I was able to remove the switch part of these and disassemble the push buttons. With a sharp chisel I was able to pare away the plastic to make room for the mounting screws.My power tools have a relay so I just needed the push buttons which were pretty much identical to the OEM switches. So I bought two and I am going to buy three more. It’s a nice upgrade that doesn’t break the bank. They seem to be just as solidly made as the originals. Maybe there is a way to hook up three wires to actuate the relay but I don’t know how to do it as there is only a line and load on these switches. Either way the screws supplied are the wrong thread size so I had to reuse the old screws.If your handy I would recommend.