Lanzar 1 Channel Car Audio Amplifier, 3000 Watt, Monoblock, 2 Ohm, MOSFET, Nickel Plated RCA Input, Bass Boost Circuit, Electronic Crossover Network, Power Protection LEDs - HTG157

Bought it at a sale price, around 80$ on amazon... put it on a RE MT 15" 10,000 watt burp sub.. didn't even move...thought it was some crap.. had a legacy 5,000 watt at 2ohms that burnt, so this was just as cheap as a replacement or so i thought... i put an ssl 2400 watt 15 in the same box at 2 ohm on this lanzar. it ran 20 mins at 3/4 gain on a crossover and smoked that sub... the RE MT at 2ohms would send it into protect in 2 mins max... i zip-tied two 12 volt fans on the amp-never again turned off. it's been great ever since.. the insides look good as well, similar to mtx, and fosgate insides.... not a beast by any means but has great rms once cooled properly at 2 ohms.

I replaced a 500w kenwood amp with this. I am powering 2 jl subs rated at 600 watts at a 2 ohm load. At 2 ohms this amp claims to put out 1500w rms. Honestly i think that is unrealistic. But it blows the kenwood amp out of the water. Crisp sound very clear and loud. At first it had nothing after i hooked it up. The gain knob if turned all the way down is turned off. So you have to play with the settings. Also you need a very solid ground i am using 4 gauge wire i had to sand down the connectors on the wires to make it fit but if you have a crappy ground you will get alot of heat. I have not torture tested it but so far for the money im really happy. Do not expect this to power something that is rated at 1500w but its a great amp for the money. I think this amp puts out 700-800 watts.

So I just hooked up this amp to 2 kicker cvr 12's and I can only turn the gain on half way. Any more than that and it cuts off. I have the bass boost on 6 because 12 is to much. I tuned it in as best as I could so it would not hit protect mood. Subs hit pretty good but don't even come close to pushing them to there max. I had a 4000 watt planet audio that was stolen that worked perfect. It would make them hit hard enough to tickle your throat and rattle your ears. It would shake my rear view mirror so hard you couldn't use it. They broke the metal holder for my radar scanner. Son know what my speakers can do. And I'm on a scale of one to ten. Ten being pleased and 1 horrible displeased. I'm a 1. A true 3000 watt amp which should be around 1500 rms, should easily push my 800 to 850 rms speakers. Not to mention I listened to 3 songs and the amp was to hot to even touch. I'm talking stupid hot. So if your trying to push 800 or more rms don't waste your time with this amp.

The app is amazing. No problems with it so far wish I had a bass to put under my dash

I am using this to power one db k6 12 inch subwoofer @ 4 ohms on my mazda 3 and to be honest I am loving this product combination. I could have had 2 subs but I didn't want to go loud and with only one sub this thing really hits hard. I had it professionally installed by best buy and they recommended me to get 4 awg wire and with that setup the amplifier is still working and hits really hard. The only negative that I will give this amplifier is that it does get really hot but it hasn't to a point where it would shut off. I would recommend that if u are planning to upgrade to this amplifier or if u are going to add another high power amplifier I would warn u that stock battery can't handle the power. I had my stock battery for 6 years but once I installed this amplifier my battery died in 3 weeks. You would have to go with deep cycle battery like optima Yellow top or any battery that has deep cycle technology. It draws so much power that my headlights were dimming each time, bass hits @ nite time with stock battery. I don't have that problem anymore. So in net shell this unit require some proper install and will work great but if u go with cheap wires this will fry your electrical system on your car.

I'm sold on the lanzer amp, they are powerful and reliable. I have the Vector 2 channel bridge system one speaker, so I purchased two 3000w lanzar one channel split for each speaker. This not only produces a better sound, it actually plays continuously at a low heat production.

A descent amp but the base that has the holes to mount the unit is a weak plastic material and the holes split when i attempted to secure the unit to my auto by hand

OK first of all let's look at the stats on this amp. It's a typical low end amp, over rated on power, just look at the actual parts of it to start with so you don't get disappointed in the first place. A normal 3k amp is going to cost you a minimum of $600-$1k... It's around $65 hmmm. OK now that that's outta the way it has a 40amp fuse. 40amps x 12.5 volts= 500 watts. Even at 14volts your looking at 560watts possible total output. Highly unlikely to even reach that or your going to be popping fuses all the time. So I have had this hooked up to a sealed 12" audiobahn 4ohm and ran in parallel with an 8" bazooka tube 4ohm and it rattled the rear view enough to be useless when it hit. Tune it right and it hits pretty good... not comp end but can definitely hear outta the car. Hope this helps those who research.