The History of Surfing

Warshaw covers it all. It's a fascinating book, complete with sections on surfing lore, surfing legends and heroes, 'surfing philosophy' and how it influenced the sport (as well as the zeitgeist of the era, an on), types of boards, how one mode of thinking led to the next. Well done and worth the price. You can get gorgeous surfing photos -- past and present -- in a gazillion other books. This has a few, but it really is an intellectual look at a West Coast phenom. Yes, intellectual (well, as much so as possible, anyway). What I mean is that surfers are said to be shallow, narcissistic (or ego-oriented) hedonists. He says little to disavow folks of that notion, but he explains how it is that the public feels this way about those who practice the sport. Granted, today many -- if not most -- surfers probably just enjoy the athleticism, the being "in one with the waves" feeling, being out on gorgeous days, the thrill of the speed, and the exhilaration of being out there in the gorgeous water with the fish and other wildlife. But there is a mystique to it all, too, and while not exactly nailing the sensation or the "rapture" of it, Warshaw comes about as close as possible.

One of the essential books on surfing—an essential per Outside Magazine. My husband loves it. Perfect gift.

Brought this as a gift for my husband who travels a lot for surfing. He loves it.

Excellent

I read this book whilst watching the surf roll off Snapper Rocks Queensland, probably the best, all round all year surf break in the world.Matt covers the history of surfing in a concise manner and leaves us plenty of room for thought on all the little tit bits which make up thefull background. As both the art and sport of surfing is so quickly changing and is now being passed to the youngsters, this book is an essential item for the collection of every surfer. As always the big question is, Where is surfing headed next?? How and what will we be surfing in 10 years time ?

Having read some of Matt Warshaw's other work (mostly shorts and Maverick's: The Story of Big Wave Surfing)I already knew that I liked his writing style. Being an aging surfer and having read a good bit of both historic and modern surf literature, I wasn't sure if a comphrehensive HOS would be able to hold my attention. Simply put, it did, and then some. I was generally familiar with a good bit of the content from my disjointed readings of the past. There is enough new stuff and some surprises in the old stuff, more than enough, and written in a manner that makes it an enjoyable and refreshing cover to cover read.Having a degree in history, an ex-pro surfer, having established the most extensive surf database anywhere in existence, as well as having recently completed The Encyclopedia Of Surfing, Matt is unquestionably the authority on the subject, uniquely qualified to write the history of surfing. Yes, as a reviewer noted there is some "opinion" to be found here and there, not a lot, but it is clearly such and I found it to be more insightful in nature, an "insider's" perspective, not opinion masquerading as fact.As a surfer of course I'm obviously biased to the subject, but I do agree that non surfers with any interest what-so-ever in surf history or culture should find this to be the best, most comphrehensive and enjoyable single source read available today on surfing.The bottom line is: if you are a grom or an old surfer you really should give this a read regardless of how you come by it. Get it from your local library, borrow it from a bro, steal it. Just kidding, don't steal- we're finally getting a little main stream respect these days. I found the Amazon price to be the best. It is pretty beefy. If you buy it and don't like it, you've still got one hell of a door stop.

This book is great - a lot better than I thought it would be. I've had it in my list for a while because I'm interested in surfing and I like history. But I honestly thought it'd be pretty boring and I'd skim it here and there and then it would look cool on my bookshelf. I'm about halfway through it, though, and it's a great read. Even for non-surfers the history of surfing has a huge intersection with the history of pop-culture.

I am not a surfer. But I am a history buff who was given an advance copy of this gorgeous book. I'm only on page 174, but I have to stop and share my excitement about The History of Surfing. How can you not love a book that describes the crowds at surf movies of the late 1950's like this:"Firecrackers were lit and rolled across the floor to the next row of seats. Bottlecaps zipped through the air. High decibel beer-belches rang out. A motorcyclist might blow in through the side door, ride up one aisle and down the other, then gun back out the way he came."What older surfers invariably describe first when talking about early surf movies is the tearing thunderclap of cheers and whistles and stomping feet that began when the lights dimmed and the first blue-green image lip up the screen--a roaring noise signifying not just a manic willingness to be entertained, but the pure joy of an otherwise staunchly nonaligned multitude coming together briefly, powerfully, ecstatically as a group."Now that's the way to write history. Kevin Starr, California State Historian, eat your heart out.

O livro é excelente! Conteúdo ótimo, fotos incríveis. Matt Warshaw é um dos melhores texto do mundo do surfe. Imperdível.

Da avere a tutti i costi in collezione

Very complete in terms of visual and ambient related to surfing lifestyle. Touches important parts of surf evolution.

Wonderful coffee table book

es mas de lo que estaba buscando, todo aquel que el guste el surf y desees saber mucho sobre su historia, debe tenerlo en su biblioteca.