Slime 1050 Rubber Cement, Tire Repair, use with Slime Plugs or Patches, 8 oz. can

I’ve used a lot of tire repair products over the years, but the Slime 1051-A Rubber Cement has earned a permanent spot in my toolbox. The first time I used it was during a plug repair on a punctured tire, and it made the whole process smoother and more reliable. The cement spreads easily, stays workable long enough to position the plug or patch correctly, and bonds fast once everything is in place. What I really like is how well it pairs with Slime plugs and patches—it clearly does exactly what it’s designed to do. The 1 oz. tube may look small, but a little goes a long way, and it seals confidently without feeling messy or overly runny. I’ve driven thousands of miles on repairs made with this cement, and they’ve held up without leaks or issues. If you want peace of mind when fixing a tire, this is one of those simple products that makes a big difference.

Good quality. Nice value for the size. Holds well with plugs. Dries fairly quickly. Easy to use. Nice for tire repairs. It functions as it should. Nice large can.

Works great, but you need to know how to patch a tire to start with.

This is GREAT for home repair of my bicycle tubes! Excellent product!

After trying other brands that I got locally from places in my community and having them fail to perform as expected, I decided to try this brand. Since using slime patches, I have not had any problems. Patching a hole is relatively easy but the correct procedure must be followed. Most importantly, the area around the hole needs to be thoroughly scuffed to remove the smooth shiny surface. When done correctly the area should have a dull flat appearance. Do not overdo it as this could reduce the thickness of the tube make it weaker. I prefer to use an abrasive piece of sandpaper instead of the metal grater as that may be a bit too aggressive. Anything between 40 and 100 grit would be fine. The glue reacts with the rubber and softens it as part of the vulcanizing process when the patch is applied. It is better to have this area slightly bigger than the size of the patch otherwise the edges of the patch may not bond properly and begin to peel back when the tube is inflated. After applying the glue/ vulcanizing fluid, do not immediately apply the patch but wait about 30 seconds. You can blow on it and it will have a dull hazy appearance unlike the wet shiny appearance when it is first applied. It is not necessary to use a lot of glue or apply it too thick, just enough to cover the area. When removing the foil from the sticky side of the patch, try not to touch the underside of the patch as oil and grease on your fingers may contaminate the patch and reduce its effectiveness. Do not try to remove the clear plastic on the top side of the patch. Try to align where the hole is so that it is under the center of the patch. A little off is not a problem but you do not want it to be too far off from center. Sometimes it is easy to lose sight of where the hole is after the glue has been applied. After the patch is fitted, press firmly down on it and massage the area. Let it sit for at least a minute before inflating. The hotter it is outside the less time required for the bonding process between the glue and the adhesive on the patch to be completed. Then place the tube back inside the rim and fit the tire and inflate. By this time a few minutes would have passed and more than enough for the glue to bond. This is assuming that you are on the road doing a repair. I prefer to have an extra tube that I just remove and replace and do the patching at home where time is not a factor and you can even inflate the tube and put under water to see if there are any bubbles, but on the road that is not an option. Finally, even though the clear plastic over the patch can be removed after the patch has been applied to the tire, yes it looks better, but it can sometimes have a tendency to want to lift the edge of the patch when doing so, I would just leave the plastic film where it is. But if you really need to remove the plastic, try to break it somewhere over the center of the patch so you can get under it and pull it away towards the edge of the patch, not from the edge towards the center.

Good quality, great price.

The patch kit works, but I find the quality to be ok. The plastic coverings did not come off, so I was stuck leaving that inside the tire area. The patches I put on lasted about a year before failing.

I have gone thru cans of these 1050 Slime rubber cement (though only a small amount is needed) in patching tubes in this lower income city of cheap bike (mostly), using inexpensive patches, and can attest that it is very good (used correctly), and is the best for the money (8 oz. for under $8.00). Unless the puncture is too large (see below), patches using this do not come off upon inflation, with the exception of certain tubes which are not made with the normal rubber. Such have a slippery surface and despite buffing the cement will peel off once day. However, if you remove the first coat and reapply the cement and let it dry and apply the patch, then the patches will hold. Note there are basically three types of tube flats (aside from a bad valve). One is due to a puncture, such as it caused by glass, wire and some other sharp object. Another is that of pinch flats, caused by hitting a curb (like due to faulty "bunny hopes") or something hard, resulting in two horizontal flats in the same area of the tube, sometimes on opposite sides. A third cause is abrasion flats caused by a hole in the tire,. usually as a result of "drifting" (skidding). If a hole in the tube is larger than a very small hole then you should replace the tube (often cheaper to buy as 4 packs from a certain mart). Basic instructions in patching a tube: 1. Remove the wheel (axle nuts, if used, are usually 15mm) and deflate the tube (cock the pump nozzle to one side so you hear air and rotate the tire somewhat). Then remove the tire from off the rim (if necessary, use a tire lever to pry off one side of the tire, beginning a foot away from the valve, and after one side of the tire is off then carefully push any of the tube up into the tire, then squeeze the tire and then push the tire lever all the way under the tire, lean the tire to the side and slowly pry it off, carefully ending with the valve). 2. Find out the specific location of the tire leakage by inflating the tire (maybe about 6 pumps using a full pump as this $10 one) until it is spongy like a balloon (you can press it in about an inch) but not stressed. Then, if leak is not found, rotate each side of the tire past your cheek so you can feel the leak. Or, if necessary, vertically submerge each section of the tube in water (begin with the valve) and look for bubbles. 3. Next, clean/dry the area around the leak and if necessary use a marker to make a wide circle around the leak so that you know where it is. Note that if possible, it is best to leave the tube inflated until we get to step 6. Also, try to have clean fingers and minimize skin contact with the leak area. 4. Next, use a buffer to friction-clean the wide area around the leak (blow away any sand if you use sandpaper), and then spread a thin coating of rubber cement onto the leak area on the dry tube, rubbing the cement into the tube for a few seconds until it begins to dry. Note that it is best to use cement that is made for rubber patches, like Slime 1050, and DO NOT use super glue or anything else but rubber cement! 5. Next, let the rubber cement dry for about 2 - 3 minutes (outside in windy or sunny warm dry weather it can dry faster), while you slowly remove the foil backing from the patch, holding the edge of the patch. You may also remove the cellophane cover if you want, since that does not stretch like the rubber does - but AVOID putting your fingers on the bottom of the patch (where the foil was). 6. After the cement is dry (it will look dry) deflate the tire if there is much air left in it, and then place the patch over the center of the leak. Then place the tube on a smooth hard surface and press down all areas of the patch 7. Wait about a minute or two before putting some air into the tube (about 4-5 pumps) to make sure the patch is holding and there is no leak (note: some tubes are made of a different material which feels very smooth, kind of like plastic, and for these you may need to repeat steps 4 and 5 if the patch begins to peel off). If all is well then place the inner tube into tire and onto the bike and re-inflate it until tire is firm, (about 16 pumps or more) then stop. Do not over inflate (the side of the tire will tell you the max. PSI and you can check your pressure with a gauge). Hope this helps.

worked really well

I used two patches as soon as they arrived. Patches and glue are great quality

This stuff worked well for me, I used it to help glue some motorbike strut boots together, only problem was when it dried it was green in colour so I used some black spray paint to cover that up.

This product was exactly as described. I used it to fix a hole in a tube and had no issues at all. The repair was quick and effective. Very satisfied with how well it worked!

Works great for the model!