Permatex 82099 Spray Sealant, 9 oz., Natural Finish

16 Month Update: Code never came back. This product sealed the vacuum leak - which had been plaguing me for years. ************* For a long time I had been having an intermittent check engine code that relates to the evap emissions test part of the OBDII on my 2005 Mercedes C230. It does not affect the operation of the vehicle or the engine. It just means there is a small vacuum leak when the system tests itself which throws the code. Consequently you can’t get your car smogged or registered. I read in various places that this is a common problem with this vehicle and even watched YouTube videos of people addressing repairs etc. I learned thanks to all this information (!) that there is a specific spot close to and just behind where the fuel filler opening is located. The part includes a plastic barb which a hose connects to. The barb develops a hairline crack causing a “small evap leak” (P0456). Many people solved their issue by replacing the entire filler neck assembly, which can cost anywhere from $150 for a used part to $500 for a new part. Not to mention the 2-4 hours in labor. The vehicle has a rubber shroud directly behind the fuel inlet which you can push down with a flat screwdriver. You can see right in that location where the suspect part is located. I used the straw attachment and sprayed all over that area about 5-8 coats of this liquid Permatex. It sprays on like liquid and congeals into a nice rubber sealant after a few minutes. I have not had the P0456 code since using this spray sealant. Given the tight space limitations involved, there’s no way I could’ve made this repair using a different product. I would recommend this product for any low pressure (or vacuum) leaks. The straw sprayer is perfect so you can get into tight spaces. It seems particularly suited for things like what I accomplished - sealing a hose/barb fitting - a weak spot in any vacuum system.

good product at a good price

I used this to seal oil leaking from around the front timing cover of my Mom's 2011 Nissan Juke with around 70,000 miles, it has been leaking for years and slowly getting worse, it was to where she was adding a quart of oil every month or so, she looked into having the cover resealed properly by her mechanic and we decided that it was not worth the cost if we could lessen the leak fairly easily, removing and resealing the timing cover is an easy job except for the problem of not having good access to it on the car, I read a lot of reviews for this product and the biggest thing I got from them was that cleaning area is key, I cleaned with brake cleaner and wiped as much as I could but it was not easy as space is limited, I was able to get most of the area but not all near the top and luckily it was only leaking on the side toward the rear of the car because there is no room to clean or seal the side toward front of car, after cleaning many times I warmed up the engine as directions state, which caused more oil that I had to clean, then I sprayed about 20 coats of the sealer, I put a ton on because I think it would be hard to recoat in the future if it continues to leak, I used 1/2 to 3/4 of the can, it has been a couple of months and seems to be holding up well, still leaking a little at the top where I could not get to but now I have not had to add oil to her car since, I will keep checking her oil level which is good practice on any car, I don't know if this is a permanent solution but it seems good for being able to put off until maybe something bigger needs fixed and it makes more sense to go through what needs to be done to remove and reseal the cover, another note on timing cover leaks is that my Dad had a Lincoln MKX that developed a timing cover oil leak and was told by mechanic that the only way to reseal was to remove the engine from the car to gain access to which was outrageous expensive, he has more money and opted to buy a brand new Cadillac so in my opinion this stuff is worth a try for the cost and the small time investment MAKE SURE YOU TAPE OFF ANYTHING IT COULD GET ON SUCH AS THE BELT AND EXHAUST AND ANY OTHER MOVING PARTS, IT MAKES A NASTY STICKY MESS ON THINGS OVERSPRAY GETS ON

Honest review i had bought a older used car it had a oil leak yes I looked under the car before buying it checked engine oil and transmission but a while since I was driving it i had a minor oil leak so whenever I took it for a spin no oil is dripping but when I cut it off oil was spilling out it made like smudges under The car after I finish driving so over the weekend i said once this come in imma lift my car up and redo the oil pan and around the trans area if it has a rear main seal so ever since I paid attention to the bolds and were the previous mechanic did the make ya gasket so this what I did I had to cover my ahh cause he was a shady mechanic wanted money but can’t fix a oil leak correctly i patched up the spots that he missed and I let it sit through out the whole day when I tell you I did a good job on it were the trans is no more oil leaking in that area i see a big difference and im glad I took my time and did it myself and common since dont spray were they going to do the oil change at that plug to drain the oil out but I spray around the oil pain were the bolts are and were the so called rear main seal this morning when I looked under the car I said oh yea I did that and mechanic was trying to charge me 1000 to fix a rear main seal leak mind you this car is 25 years old when I bought it the exhaust was split in half i weld that bihh on there it’s a Honda so it’s a good car very dependable and I told my car im not giving up on you i had to do a hospital procedure pasa me the tools 🧰 the spray the bandage but im glad I took care of it cause you never let a oil leak sit pay attention to it and make sure to use soap and water in a bottle to clean off that because if it goes on the exhaust you going to smell it thru the ac and Thats chemicals yk how when people tell you to let your car window down when driving same thing but I had to leave me honest review but I did a good job…

This stuff is basically a spray on rubber glue and it makes an unholy mess out of everything you spray it on, including your hands and anything surrounding the work area. It "might" work for sealing a spot, but it will definitely require multiple coats (and the can does say so). Here's the catch, each subsequent application of a coat "softens" the previous coat, sort of undoing what you had just done. It also does not seem to resist diesel, or other oils/oily substances all that well, tending to more float on top of them, then get through to the leak. Overall it's an OK product and it does sort of work. It has its uses, and I intend to keep it around for other "creative" sealing requirements. But it is certainly not a permanent solution for anything and makes a gigantic mess. And it will require some disassembly and cleaning of your work surface before applying.

The leak was from a gm 246 transfer case was leaking in 3 area's that I tried finding multiple times, I found 1 of the 3 leaks and really didnt thing this product would work. I power washed the entire case using engine greaser, then went after it with 2 cans of ether, then finnished with 91% alcohol bath then let dry over night with a fan and small heater following day I applied 12 coats to the entire transfer case adding 5 minutes to every coat for flash coat time so each coat could dry and fume off I then let it sit over night with fan and heater drying the case. As I write this review it has been over a week of driving the truck and have yet to see any sign of transfer case fluid but we will see what the winter salt and cold weather does to it. couple hints each coat must be set up and fumed off so if you touch it and its tacky dont add a coat you will lock in a unset dryed coat and it will not work it must be dry and you must scuff each coat by wiping it down like the directions state also I read several reviews you must have the product clean and scuffed for it to grab and hold also it has to be no pressure besides normal gravity or it will not work //// fyi//// water in a large tank or tube has significant weight which related to pressure, Most important make sure its dry and set up before you continue the use of what you sealed

This stuff is amazing. I had a leaky gasket. I cleaned the areas surrounding the gasket, removing the oil residue, then I sprayed the areas with brake parts cleaner and wiped them clean with paper towel. I ran the engine to heat up the block and applied this product all around the gasket. Completely sealed the leak. It is very hard to remove once applied to metal, so be careful where you spray it. Will rid you of annoying oil leaks without having to remove parts.

If I could give this product, a lower star, I would give it negative stars. This product is a waste of money. All it makes is a gooey mess, and it claims to seal leaky fuel tanks. Well, that’s not true. Don’t waste your money.

Amazing product! The key for it to work is cleaning. I had an upper oil pan leak on my Mercedes-Benz, 1200$ estimate. I had to drain the oil and then spray brake cleaner on and wait for the oil residue to drain out the sealing area. Had to repeat this every few min for an hour to clean it right.... and this was after I had pressure washed the area with degreaser. I then sprayed and wiped, repeating 5x. I then sprayed a final 2 coats without wiping. Been 2 days and no leak. It’s not a product you just spray with no prep, I probably spent 3h total on the job. Saved a lot of time doing an upper oil pan (removing steering rack, front axle, etc) and was able to spend the rest of the day playing video games.

Great value item. Works well. Quick delivery

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It stop a leak on a 5 speed manual transmission (NV4500) . It’s been 6 months now and still not leaking.( there is no pressure inside the transmission )

yes the Permatex Spray Sealant is excellent have a great day