Planet BikeHardcore bike fenders - 26" x 60mm (black) - max tire width 1.9" or 50mm

I out these on my 90s specialized hardrock and they fit just perfect with maxxis DTH 2.1 tires. I dont think they would fit with any wider tires.Besides that these were easy to install, are rattle free, and keep me dry in NYC rain. I fo believe i was missing a screw or two but i had some lying around to make it work.

These fenders were installed on a Northrock CMT. Fenders are easy to work with and rear stays did not require cutting for the 26" size. All hardware was stainless except the bolts for mounting to the bike. My fork and frame required different length fasteners and washers than supplied. I used my floor-stock stainless fasteners and washers for all mounting. A photo of the hardware kit would be helpful. I found the hardware kit inadequate for my bike.I like the mudflaps which I believe protects the bottom edge of fender. The 4th photo in the ad shows rear fender with a front clip which is not supplied.My bike has a perpendicular threaded hole for supplied middle plastic bracket on rear fender which required me to fabricate a stainless right-angle bracket to interface with the supplied bracket. Zip-ties are supplied for mounting this bracket in case a bolt will not work yet these invite rattling, rubbing, and fatigue of the plastic fender. In addition, I installed a front disc brake on this bike. The fork only had IS mounting for the caliper and no additional holes for the fender stay on the left side. I made a stainless M6 x 1.0 threaded stud with washers, jam and self-locking nuts to hold caliper and mount fender stay. I say all the above to provide examples of possible challenges when mounting. Evaluate your bike before buying fenders. Different brands of bikes can be designed not similar so custom mounting the fenders may be necessary. As an example, I had an e-bike without hardpoints for fenders on the fork. I had to drill-n-tap M6 x 1.0 holes and make offset spacers on the lathe from stainless round stock. Looked and worked great yet required an hour of fabrication.

These are very easy to install and feel solid. Note that if you also use a bike rack, you will probably need extra-long bolts to attach the rear fender and the rack to the frame bosses. The two struts on each side for the rear fender are quite thick, so the stack of two struts plus a rack strut is very thick and requires a long bolt.

I'd love to comment on the water directing qualities of said fenders, but alas it was not to be. My commuter machine was stolen 2 weeks after these were installed, so I bring you a review of the installation instead.First impressions: these fenders are made from polycarbonate. They are extremely tough and I'm sure would function for many trouble free miles over rough roads. The build quality is top notch. The installation hardware provided is ample and complete. The surface is glossy black and the rubber deflectors are securely attached. I appreciate the quick release plastic tabs on the front fender - an oft overlooked safety feature. The front rods are designed to pull away from the plastic tabs in case a twig or such gets picked up by the tires. Without that pull away, you'd be over the bars in an eyeblink. Whatever you do, don't yank them off, use them.Installation was pretty easy, but I made sure my bike had requisite mounting lugs, braze-ons and holes in all the right places before I ordered. Instructions were fairly clear, no troubles. BUT... there are some things you should know...I had 26" wheels w/ Kenda Kwest street tires (which are superb btw). These fenders can cover a 700c wheel. It means the fender radius is a little larger than a 26" set. The net effect is the nose of the front fender does not follow the tire profile exactly, rising slightly above it by about 10mm. Only a visual folly, no effect on performance. Also, the rods will be a little long for a 26" wheelset. They are generously sized stainless, and don't cut with regular side-snips or tin-snips. No worries, a hacksaw makes quick work of it. You will probably need to cut them else your toes could rub while stop-balancing at a red light. Take a bastard file and gently tease the cut edge to eliminate sharp edges.To the rear fender, same radius issue but with 3 mounting points they will be forced to follow the profile you create. It's OK to put both rods into 1 bolt if that's all the mounting lugs you have, but you may need a longer bolt. The rear rods will also need to be cut, this time not for function but for aesthetics. The front mount of the rear fender is interesting. It is a stamped steel piece in the shape of a curved snap, about the radius of your pinky finger. It was intended to snap over the chainstay cross-bar near the bottom bracket, however on my bike this put the fender too far away from the tire (purely visual issue). So I zip tied the outside edge of that curved piece to the cross-bar - problem solved. If you don't have a cross-bar you could make one with a zip tie and then attach the fender to that. Alternately, depending on your bike just zip tie the mount to the seat tube.Once installed you'll probably need to adjust them a little so they ride in the center of the tire. Go for a ride and check it out! During the 2 weeks I rode on them they were rock solid. They did not bounce around, never hit the tire, were dead quiet - no rattles. The fenders are 60mm wide and the tires were about 43mm wide so coverage was generous. If you're right on the edge between the ATB and the narrower fender, get the ATB. I'm sure when it rains you won't regret it.PS: they will fit under most racks. I used them under a Wald 535 basket (you can read my review on the Wald page). Although my bike did not have disc brakes, I'm pretty confident they would fit with some minor bending/adjusting of the rods.Keep the rubber side down and be safe out there!

These fenders were fairly challenging to install. The instructions give you two methods for installation and I used neither. I had to use what they gave me with some spare parts around the garage to get them to work. Now that they are on, they work well.

I've had mine for around a year now and they've definitely been worth their cost. Apart from a slightly difficult install, it went on without issue and did what it was supposed to - preventing rocks, water, mud, and dirt from getting on me.I definitely recommend it for a commuter or enthusiast, but for a bumpier commute or full on mountain biking, my recommendation isn't as strong.See, mine had issues with the bumpy roads on my commute. The first time I had a nut on the front tire come right off when I hit a small pothole, causing the wire to jam into the wheel and cause it to seize. They did replace the part for free, but since then it was obvious that these fenders need slightly thicker metal to avoid jiggling around at high speed or bump.You need to be sure these are installed properly and tightly, or else they'll start to warp and rub against the tires. Otherwise, I enjoyed them. I might replace mine soon when they wear down more. Definitely a durable fender, but the wires it comes with are definitely not too secure - at least for me.Highly recommend for commutes and gentle rides.

these fenders fit really nice and look very nice also, a bit of work to get them on but their worth it.

I have this on my mountain bike for winter with a full inch of clearance over the knobby tires. What I needed to add was different bolts with matching nuts as the bolts/machine screws that come with this product for mounting to the frame are meant to be screwed into eyelets that are threaded to fix the supports near the fork and rear dropout. My frame does not have threaded holes in the back. Another good thing is that it comes with the option to zip tie certain steps in case you do not a frame designed with this fender in mind. The front mud guard comes down as low as your chain ring! And it makes no noise when you bounce the bike on its tires.