Zebra Case - Raspberry Pi 3B +, Pi 2, Pi B+ and 2B (True Blue) with Heatsinks

Other rpi cases seem to have a lot of extra height to them. This makes it difficult to attach HATs etc. well. This case is much slimmer, barely going above the ethernet and USB ports. To make mine slimmer, I even removed a layer of the wall and it works great. Attaching HATs still isn't as great as I'd like. There's no holes for the screws, and you need a 40-pin riser if you use the full stack of pieces. You can kind of get away without a riser when you take one layer out, depending on the board.

I am highly satisfied with this case for my Rpi 2. It is well worth the price. Because I found it a bit tricky putting it together, especially the first few steps, I will give a blow by blow account of what I did after several false starts and backtracks. I got the paper off (after the fingernail method did not work) by using a safety razor blade. I put the point into one of the holes, and with the blade nearly flat against the part, sliced into the paper easily. Be careful that the blade moves in a direction that it won't scratch a sensitive part of the plastic. Then the paper could be peeled easily. You start by laying the bottom plate down with the notch (for the micro memory card) away from you. ( Follow the diagram supplied.) It is too soon to put the screws in place. Place the blue rectangle (the one with the long shallow notch for the 3 sockets: power, HDMI and phono plug) on the base with its notch to your left. Ground yourself before picking up the Rpi. Make sure that the memory card is removed. Lay the Rpi into the blue rectangle. The fit will be sloppy. Now put the thin, C shaped transparent piece in place by putting the back edge down first, under the lip of the memory socket. Then lower it, wiggling the Rpi so that the C piece slips snugly around it. Now holding everything in place, insert the screws upward from below the base plate. Lay the assembly on the table. From now on assembly is much easier. Insert the small transparent piece (that has holes for the 3 sockets mentioned above) into the left side, so the sockets fit into its holes. Now take the two identical, transparent, L pieces and slide them into place down the 4 screws. These L pieces have notches to help hold the three-hole piece in place. The two identical very small plastic pieces go down beside the large square WIFI socket at the front-left corner. These two pieces also have notches that help hold the three-hole piece in place. The large blue rectangular piece goes on next. Its small, shallow notch goes to the left, so as to leave plenty of room where the HDMI plug fits in. At this time, you can put heat sinks in place on the two largest top-side chips. The transparent top lid is the last to go on. Its large notch is on the right, affording easy access to the long, double-row GPIO socket from above. Put the four nuts on the screws, and tighten just a bit. Glue the four feet on, and you are done. I have a UC-237 T-Cobbler Plus gizmo for connecting all the GPIO pins, via a ribbon cable, at once to a solderless bread board. Its cable plug easily goes into and out of the GPIO socket in the case. I have not tried the cable slot above the camera socket, nor the one at the back, above the memory port. They allow a cable in but not any socket. All other sockets are easily accessible. I really enjoy this spiffy, solid, heavy, plugin-accessible, protective case.

A nice, low profile, sturdy, and attractive case. It came with heat sinks, which was a nice surprise, especially because the case is largely sealed so ventilation is minimal. The only small negative I would note is that some of the edges, mainly on the blue pieces are not polished enough and you can still make out tooling marks. The instructions are largely just a diagram of assembly, but enough to get you through the task.You do have to assemble it, but that shouldn't be a problem for your average Pi tinkerer. Figure 20-30 minutes to assemble it from opening the box to 100 percent completed. The hardest part really is getting the protective paper off the parts. The second hardest part is just sorting the pieces and making sure the are oriented correctly. My advice for assembly is the following:1. Remove the memory card for the Pi (it's in the instructions, worth repeating here).2. Sort the parts and get the orientation correct. Some parts are easy to get upside down or 90 degrees off, so pay close attention.3. Insert the screws in the bottom plate with the screws sticking up from table/work surface. This allows you to stack all the pieces up on the screws as you go.4. When you get to putting the screw caps/nuts on the tops, just get them all started, then push each down into the top plate. Then tighten the screws. If you don't push them all down before tightening, any small misalignment will mean you can't get them all recessed correctly.

The case exceeded my expectations. Very nice case for my raspberry pi.Pro: - Solid thick plastic - Form fitting design - Ease of use (Ribbon cable for the GPIO fit flawlessly (at least the cable I have does), slits for flex cable for display and camera) - Appearance (very sleek) - Rubber feet ( this thing does not slide around at all with the provided rubber feet)Cons: - Instructions are lacking a little, but if you bought a Pi, you can handle putting this together! - They laser etch their brand onto the bottom plastic. Not a big deal, but when they do it, they leave the protective paper on it. So it is "hard" to peel the small pieces.Suggestions - Loose hardware, wish they would have used some clinch hardware so we didn't have any protrusion on the bottom (potential for scratching of work surface) BUT the rubber feet sit high enough that this isn't a problem. (Just a suggestion). - Mounting cut out holes on the bottom will be hard to use, if you use metal screws, there is the potential that you could short out the PI.I would recommend this case to anyone. Thank you.