G96 1069 Liquid Gun Bluing, 2-Ounce

Wow! This really works! The bluing came out perfect on all 4 "items" to which it was applied.It does help to heat the "item" (wink, wink) in the sun first before applying the bluing. The barrel, ahem... "item" must be clean and oil free before you use this, but just about any solvent like lacquer thinner can take care of that for you. After bluing, let it cure for a day or more before you oil it. Oh, and be sure to use distilled water for the rinsing. The instructions just say to use water. If you do that, it will rust up on you pretty quickly. If you use distilled water, you won't have to worry about it.The blued finish is not blotchy, and looks amazing.

This cold blue is easy to use and a fine product for quick easy touch up of bluing. I found it useful for touching up places where the bluing had been damaged by corrosion caused by improper storage - sweaty finger smudges. It will not blend completely with the existing bluing. You will still be able to tell where the bluing has been touched-up.I would never use this on any gun that had collector value and I would not recommend it for a complete bluing job; for that I would opt for a hot blue and send the gun to someone equipped to do it.

Follow preparation instructions and you will get a great finish. Used on an 1895 revolver and it worked very well.

This is the best for cold bluing, and I have used just about all of them.

Works better on some steel then Brownells Oxpho-Blue just depends on the material. This bluing is more to the black, where as Oxpho is more to the blue. Prep makes for good results, clean clean an clean again.

This stuff creates a blue that is as close to factory blue as I have been able to achieve. If you warm the metal a bit, maybe just above a temperature where you can comfortably hold your hand on it, then wipe on this solution, you'll get an instant and deep blue (different alloys may respond with different shades). Polish the metal with 0000 steel wool, wash it with warm soapy water to neutralize any remaining solution, dry it and apply good gun oil, and you're in business.

Still a little tough to get it to blend with the old bluing on my Mosin, but after about a half dozen coats (with cleaning/polishing in between each) I'm able to get it fairly close. Not as easy to use as the Birchwood Casey cold blue, but I'm hoping it lasts a little longer.

Used this product for the first time on my first reblue project. My first attempt to reblue an old Iver Johnson revolver had problems, the metal did not take on any color. So prepped the metal more aggressively with a brass wire wheel. Now the G96 really showed through. I am very pleased with the results. Though the blueing does not look new, never thought it would, it has taken on the color and luster that one would expect to see on a 100+ year old revolver. Love the end results.