taulman3D 1.75mm Nylon 645 Filament Consumable, Polyamide (PA) 1lb Spool, Fits Nearly All FDM 3D Printers (Black)

It took me many attempts to get the Nylon 645 to 3D print successfully. But once I had it dialed in I love it!This is what I found for my Creality CR-10(s):1. Always use Defrost setting and heat in the microwave for two 5-6mins sessions just prior to printing with the Nylon 645.2. Store the Nylon 645 in a sealed container with desiccant when not in use.3. Dry the Nylon 645 filament before use.- every time! I can't overstate this!4. Make sure that you have a really good aftermarket All-Metal Hotend Extruder capable of at least 265C5. Make sure that you have an aftermarket bed heater capable of at least 85C. I converted my bed heater to a 110v and love it. Don't do this unless you feel comfortable with electronic conversions - find someone who can do it for you.6. Upgrade the firmware and make the adjustments as necessary. Check out TH3D for their All metal hot end, bed leveling EZABL, and how to upgrade your firmware. Again, if you are not nerdy, then track down someone who is.7. Once you have the Extruder Hotend, Bed temperature and firmware set up to handle the higher temperatures required you can clip a sheet of Garolite LE (McMaster Carr sells it) to the bed. I use 12"x12"x1/8". Roughen the Garolite LE slightly with 220 grit sandpaper, wipe clean with Denatured Alcohol, and run a PVA glue stick over it and you are ready to print. This sheet is awesome for printing with nylon!8. I found that the Nylon 645 will shrink as it cools during printing- unless you keep the areas really warm - hence the 85C bed temperature. You also need to enclose the printer to keep the surrounding temperature up throughout the printing. This is the real secret to success. Use a small heater if necessary, but a well-enclosed printer will usually generate enough heat to prevent the shrinkage. Keep the enclosure in that 85C approx range - I don't get any peel back shrinking of the part, nor does it pull off the Garolite LE surface.9. I also have run a vent tube (clothes dryer type) out to a window, from the top of my enclosure. Some say that there are the possibility of fumes, etc affecting health so I am not taking any chances. I run a variable-speed 5v fan on slow speed in the tube to remove the air slowly from the enclosure, and also maintaining a slight negative pressure during printing.10. It is norma,l I read, for some sagging of the nylon filament on the top of openings, holes, etc. The suggestion is to make any holes undersize and then drill them out after printing. Nylon can be machined, tapped, etc easily.I'm enjoying the quality and strength that Nylon 645 provides. Well worth the hours of failed parts until I discovered a great way to 3D print in nylon. Keep having fun!

Since nylon absorbs moisture easily, you have to dry out the spool every time before using it. I normally leave it in a modified food drier overnight for use the next day. Despite using a PEI build plate, for nylon, I still have to use glue stick to keep the part from lifting during printing. I also use an all metal hot end since temps are higher.

Quality nylon, once dialed in it produces very good prints. Like all nylon, you MUST dry it before use.My one big complaint is that Taulman3D's filament OD is (in my experience) always way off spec, sometimes it's as low as 1.65mm and it frequently has an oval cross-section to boot. So I have to measure the filament OD in both directions before printing, then adjust my slicing settings based on test prints - which is an unwanted hassle. Taulman needs to improve here, because there now are several good nylon competitors out there with true 1.75mm OD.

When I got my 3d Printer I was happy but unhapoy seeing how easy i could break my PLA and ABS prints. Im rough on alot of my stuff i tighten things to tight without knowing it and break stuff all the time but this stuff i can not break even a .1mm layer thickpiece of anything. Well first off its very flexible. Not like semi flex oranytging like that but its got flex. I couldnt rip the same .1mm thick layer without snipping it first. I consider my self rather strong and pride myself on being abke to perform strength moves others couldnt. So watching youtube videos thinking either the guys not pulling hard or hes just to weak was a very wrong assumption. This will be my stuff i use for any functional part. It can withstand being scraped against very rough concrete with no marks. Its got a slick finish. I wouldnt say slippery but rather like something slick and slippery when wet.

I print a lot of types of nylons and this is the 1st time I tried the Taulman 645, I dont know if it is just this roll but it is full of air bubbles, popping all throughout my prints leaving gaps in my perimeters and infill. I know this is not moisture, I dried this for 24 hours in my PrintDry prior to printing (as I do with all my nylons) and while extruding with the nozzle in the air I do not get steam during the popping, you can see the bubbles in the surface of the prints. Likely sending back.

I was introduced to this product through a 50 gram sample I received. As a fairly new maker, I was cautious about my ability to successfully use this product, as there are lots of Nylon horror stories to be found. I did my homework. I bought a pound of Silicon Gel crystals and sealed the filament with them for 2 weeks before I dared try to print. I created a closed print environment for my Ender 3 Pro and cranked up the temperature and bed and started to print some keychain fobs. They came out so well, I gave them to friends who were curious about my hobby and challenged them to rip the nylon pieces apart. Everyone was impressed, and now I'm preparing to print a replacement gasket for a solar furnace system at home and am looking for other applications as well that call for 645 nylon toughness! I have a new confidence about my printing capabilities!

running at 280-290 on a mosquito with bondtech direct drive.purchased roughly 2 years ago and dried in a food dehydrator at 165F for 7-10 hoursit is printing and adhesion is good so far.no idea why it takes that much heat vs the recommended 255.

Really great stuff. Just the right amount of flex in it to be durable but stiff. Same material used by Falcon Multirotors on their Raggio Lungo. Compared to nylonX and various other task-specific filaments this has been a breeze. I’d recommend baking before use (as with anything else), the bag wasn’t vacuumed when I received it.