Songhe BTS7960 43A High Power Motor Driver Module/Smart Car Driver Module for Arduino Current Limit 2pc

Needed something with a higher amp capacity than L298N wired in parallel while being cheap. Short answer, this has definitely has replaced the L298N for me. Not only does it have very similar control integration but it doesn't have the large voltage drop typical to the L298N! Only real negative when compared to the L298N is that the BTS7960 is single channel.Used this to upgrade a 6v power wheels to be supplied from a 20V power tool rechargeable battery with 6-8FLA and ~20LRA @ 10-12V. This meets that requirement without active cooling and prolonged operation. Using an MCU, the voltage to the motor was limited (by PWM) to <12VDC measured to 1) limit speed and 2) not immediately destroy the gearbox intended for 6v. Also added ramping to minimize starting current, gearbox shock loading, and the sudden launch experienced by the user with the original across the line 6v switch.As others noted, the packaging bent a few IO pins, not a big deal. Only complaint, 1 of 2 units had a stripped thread on one motor terminal. I had intended to solder the wires anyway so this worked out for me. The other was fine.Documentation is not included but the pinout shown on the board is consistent with other suppliers. Simple google search for BTS7960 (or the functionally identical BTN7960) should bring up datasheets and some very helpful youtube howtos.Simple operational summary; each enables pin must be high to go either direction and only one PWM can be active at a time, one for forward, the other for reverse. Sending one PWM pin to logic high and the other logic low is a simple way to run as a high(er) capacity contactor. If both PWM signals receive logic high at the same time then you will short the bridge; don't do that. Write your code so that if one signal is trapped to low if the other is active, simple.I have not had an opportunity to explore the current alarm pin. Some references noted this was an analog out for observing current when used with filtering, while others noted was simply digital out alarm pin. Will need to look at it more in the future as my current use didn't need to utilize it since the board has a built-in thermal overload.Lol why are 'Sheerness' and 'Warmth' an option for star rating?? So sheer, much warmth!

I deleted (or should have deleted) my original post. This thing DOES WORK. But BOTH ports R_EN and L_EN must be connected and high for this module to work. If they aren’t. You’re out of luck.

The parts may be rated for that many amps but the pcb design is deeply flawed.The design includes the thermal vias under the high current parts but there are no thermal pads on the heatsink side of the board.There should be bare metal pads on the heatsink side, and a thermal interface pad that isn't electrically conductive between the board and the heatsink.Since it can't transfer heat to the heatsink efficiently, the parts will burn out easily under heavy load.

Driving with 5V TTL PWM signal (1 Khz) .. Driving a simple Newport Vesseles 36lb Thrust Kayak motor. Running current < 10 Amps. Got about 1 mile out into the ocean.. Driver DIED.... I had to paddle back into Pacifica over 1 mile. NOT using these again! *Oh... And I DID first remove the heat sink, added some silicon thermal paste and FIRMLY re-attached the Heat Sink before this. I would not trust these! (Yes these are in a sealed , waterproof enclosure, BTW.. no salt-water intrusion.

It does not work with 3.3vdc logic level as advertised. Only works with 5vdc logic.