Carter Fuel SystemsCarter Fuel Pump and Strainer Set Automotive Replacement (P72165)

Installed like oem and great price. Running great so far and no too noisy

It was unclear if this would work in tank or if it was for an in line modification. I would give 4 stars cause the instructions suck, but it DOES work in the tank. Smaller than old pump but installed the same way.

Good product for the price

1990 Mazda B2600i - 294k milesQuite the process so be ware.I bought a new tank ($125) (came with gasket and screws)(check your door as the fuel tanks have a "to" and "from" date. Mine was a 9/89 date (to) the "from" (4/90) tank is completely different.)The sending unit is discontinuedfound a new fuel vent valve and grommet ($25)Replaced all of the fuel lines on top of the fuel tank and the fuel lines coming from the metal and plastic valve.On the vent fuel lines you can use those pinch style clamps.On the two fuel lines coming from the sending unit you need to use screw style clamps (I had a leak so I had to get a 1/4 drive with extensions to tighten the clamps--tight fit may need to lower the tank a bit--keep on upper nuts)I had to grind the screw heads off on the sending unit as they were rusted solid (being very careful not to damage anything as you cannot buy these anymore).I cleaned up the tubes after I got the sending unit out and I saw daylight (a hole) in one of the tubes past where the hose goes on. Solution: I took a slightly larger piece of fuel line slid it down the tube and used screw clamps on either end to cover the hole in the tube. Then--I could just install the hose from the steel fuel line on the frame rail to the sending unit (as originally done).Bolt pattern for the sending unit: The bolt pattern for the sending unit, the tank, and the gasket did not match.Solution: get in as many screws as possible (I got three) then take a sharpe and mark where you need to elongate. Then--take the unit back out and use a dremmel type bit to elongate your holes (not much but you want them to not get cross threaded--a little tedious).Pump installation: Note: the pump is smaller than the original but installs the same. After you get the sending unit out installing the pump is straight forward enough. Pull the old one out being careful not to strip the screws for the power and ground wires.The pump came with butt connectors not eyelets. I used eyelets--the wires were just long enough. I took the hard plastic off of the eyelets with a heat gun then used heat shrink as on the originals. The pump came with a lower grommet which fit in the sending unit the same as the original. You have to put the strainer on before you install the pump--used a small socket to press on the metal ring (the same as the original--use as reference).Some of the parts (if I could find them) like the fuel vent valve, grommet, and filler neck housing took about a month to get--FYI.Replaced the fuel filter as per the fuel pump install recommendations.Good luck and take--your--time.

I've used Carter fuel pumps in the past, including for this particular car over 11 years ago. Well, the new one lasted less than 3 miles. I will NOT be replacing it with another Carter product. Nor will I be purchasing any more critical auto parts from Amazon.

worked great for my 89 3.0 runs like new very little modifications to fit on fuel pump hanger

Works just fine. Don't use the crimp connectors , solder and heat shrink.

I am using this rebuild kit on a 1989 mazda rx7. What it failed to mention was that it was an upgraded design so the hardware has to be changed to fit the new design. Difficult but good.