DRIER JAPAN PINT

It's a bit ridiculous, but I only needed a few drops for my first application, which was cleaning up a rusting "chrome" barbell I had no intention of taking down to bare metal.Basically I used wire brushes and "bluing" fluid used for steel guns to scrap rust and convert what I couldn't get to black rust (which protects from future rusting, and doesn't expand).Then I used a few drops of japan drier to treat some flaxseed oil, and used a heat gun to progressively warm up the bar and then apply the oil mix. This allows it to soak in deeper in all the cracks and flaking present in the remaining "chrome".I then try to remove all I can with a paper towel and let it sit for a few days (it felt dry to the touch already the next day, thanks to the drier). This allows the mix to oxidize to form a durable polymer. Leaving too much would result in a sticky film like what you see on oven pans. Supposedly the dried attracts oxygen or something like that, and helps accelerate the oxidation of the oil into polymer.I then gave it a second coat, and called it good.The idea is basically the oil turns into a lacquer (like with cast iron seasoning, but don't use cobalt based drier for food related things) that not only seals but bonds things together to prevent further flakingIt's held up for months perfectly now in the garage with constant use. In fact the surface grip is actually really nice compared to the fake chrome previously. For the relatively low amount of effort, I'm quite pleased with how it all turned out. It's not pretty, but looks decent enough and perfectly usable after a first curious look.

Works great, a little goes a long way

Used it to mx in paint - product performed as expected