WD RESTORATION KT 24OZ

We live in an older log home and I was intrigued that this product was used by historical preservation societies to shore up and repair damage that can happen over the years. We have used this product both inside and outside to repair damaged logs, and even an interior bathroom floor that had a bit of damage around the base of the toilet. The product is easy to use, but you will have to wear gloves, especially for the liquid wood part of the treatment. It's a two part process, and even with the most practiced hands and careful use, it can be messy. The wood filler portion is also a two part process. There are gloves and a spatula included to make the process easier. Frankly, I found just getting into the filler with your hands and working it till it's even is the best approach. The product dries beautifully, it can be sanded, stained, and it is extremely durable. We always make sure we have tis product on hand for what may happen. Follow the directions, allow both the liquiwood and the filler to dry thourughly and you can't go wrong.

Very cool product, I had a rotten piece of wood on the roof that was a special size. Would have had to get custom lumber made to replace it. Luckily I found this stuff and was able to harden the soft wood and replace the totally rotten wood with this plastic goopy stuff. You can't even tell where it was used once I got the texture correct.

I had purchased this product from this seller November 22, 2016 but the 'leave a review' button is gone but I wanted to leave one now bc I just used the product:) So it took awhile for me to get the courage to do this project but today, I didn't think about it I just did it. I looked at the online videos a few times, read the instructs a few times and then got started. I'm repairing a wood floor from 1946 (I know this is original bc I've taken out a couple of walls and the floor was underneath and already stained). This was a previous doorway before someone else took out that wall. When I bought the house there was carpet down so I didn't know about it. Took out the carpet and HORRORS! I thought I would have to have the wood cut out and maybe put a perpendicular long piece in w supports under the floor etc. Research always gives more than one solution:) I found this and I knew I could do it and save a lot of $. When I got the Liquid Wood painted on I realized I didn't know when to put the Woodepox in... wait or immediate? So... I took a chance (it's Sunday), several ppl answered:). The seller gave me really good advice and the one following him in the post. 5-20 minutes said the seller and the other guy said he waited about an hour. I'd already waited about two hours but my stuff was soaked and just right... tacky to the touch. So I mixed up my play doh and started squeezing it into all the rotten crevices and smashed and smashed it in then leveled it off as best I could. I did all the holes, one after the other then went back and smoothed a bit with the alcohol. I poured some alcohol into a plastic cat food dish (I save these bc they are so great for painting on canvas and small jobs) and smoothed out the surface with the mud knife. It had already started getting firm but the alcohol made it pliable a bit again. When I painted on the Liquid Wood I used a paintbrush from my art set, a 1/2 inch across brush. Some of the crevices were under the wood so I couldn't see how far back or big so I poured the liquid on top of the brush next to the hole and just dabbed everywhere the brush would go and then I wouldn't waste the liquid trying to scoop it up into holes. This worked great. I coated everything about three times. I had mixed one ounce each of A and B of the liquid and had trouble using it all. There was more than enough even though I had a lot to cover. There's lots left over too. I did use all the Woodepox though. I realized it was best to take smaller amounts of each, mix them together then add some more bc the color has to be one color when the mixing is done. With the larger amount it seemed to take forever to get it to be one color. I just put it out on a plastic grocery bag and put my feet at either end of the bag to hold it down. Some pieces would fall out of my ball of play doh and I would just dab it up with the ball in my hand. Super easy to work with. I used the gloves but they must have been super man's:) Huge! I could have used my hair coloring gloves and the fit would be better. It did the job though. I'll try and post some pics of my pitiful floor. I know this is extremely amateurish but I wish I'd seen something similar while I was trying to work up the courage to start. Had no idea except the directions on what to do and I did just fine:)

Directions are so confusing and poorly written. In the end we hand removed as much loos rotten wood as we could. Then we added liquid wood until it appeared it would not soak up any more. Waited until that was mostly dry but still tacky then added the epoxy slightly raised so we had room to sand. Let it dry 24 hours. Then sanded and hand marked to make the texture match the wood then painted over. It appears to be holding and seems to have stabilized the rotting wood. The directions need some help.

For several years I've used it mainly outdoors on different types of wood and in areas that experience a lot of sun exposure. I haven't seen it failing anywhere yet. Some others I've used have developed a few problems. It's important to follow the directions. Also, to use a good quality topcoat. Both oil base and water base paint have worked well on it for me. But, PPG and SW are the only ones I have used for a long time. I have not used in any places requiring structural or load bearing stresses. It's not much more expensive than others that have not performed as well.

Amazing product! Used to repair decorative wood posts on exterior of home that were crumbling apart due to water intrusion and rot. Fairly easy to use and shape. Hardens like a rock and can easily be sanded and painted. Tried wood filler in the past and didn't hold up well and would start having issues after a couple months again, but after 8 months with this product, it still looks great!

This product works as advertised. Once set up, the putty is very hard, which is a good thing. The powder was a bit on the dry side but I managed to mix it okay. I will be using more of it on the deteriorated/rotted wood in our travel trailer I think it will do the trick quite nicely. Would recommend this product.

I had an older wood front door that had cracked in a few places - some of the cracks going all the way through. I used this product to fill the cracks and it worked great. It’s kind of like a play dough consistency and dries very hard after applying the liquid. It sanded well and, after I painted the door, you’d never know the cracks were there. Very easy to use with great results.

Super produits pour réparer trous aux fenêtres et portes en bois .

Used this to restore my mother-in-law's old wooden sign for their house. Has sentimental value so it was great to be able to do so. The resin made it waterproof and protects it against further rot while the paste was great for rebuilding the rotted parts and takes paint well so it could be matched.

I bought this to restore a very badly rotted window sill. The quotes I received to replace the sill were ridiculous so I decided to go down this route. Abatron is easy to apply and work with. Make sure to mix the two part liquid wood evenly and thoroughly. The two part epoxy is easily mixed in your hands. Essentially I rebuilt the entire sill from inside to out using the epoxy. The upper facing was pitted by removed rotten wood but filled smoothly. Creating a flat facing was easy and it sanded down nicely when cured. I ended up using two tubs of each epoxy to complete the job as I underestimated how much would be needed initially. The 'new' sill is rock solid and will outlast me. Highly recommended.

Had a rotten corner on my deck fascia. Removed the rotten wood and applied the epoxy hardener. The result was impressive. The epoxy hardener had penetrated the area where applied and produced a hard surface to work on. I had waited several hours for it to dry. The filler was mixed and applied as directed. It was easy to work with as well and I let it dry over night. To reduce the high spots, I used my hand plane and it worked very well. It allowed me to put a sharp edge of the corner and required minimal sanding. I will definite purchase this product again.

I used this product to repair some rotten rafter tails. The results were excellent. The product was easy to use.