K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain

The world’s second highest peak was designated “K2” by 19th-century British surveyors, and the name stuck--apparently because local peoples, most of whom had never seen the mountain, had not given it a name. For climbers, it is extremely challenging—over one three-year period, 15 expeditions attacked K2 without putting a single climber on its summit. Although the subtitle refers to K2 as “the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain,” the subtitle of a more recent Viesturs book calls Annapurna “the World’s Deadliest Peak.” Certainly, both are among the most dangerous.Ed Viesturs is one of the top high altitude climbers in the world. In his discussion of the literature about mountain climbing expeditions, Viesturs notes the trend from the no-dirty-linen approach to the tell-all approach. It seems his writing lies somewhere in between these two. He makes few negative comments on climbers’ personalities; but offers carefully reasoned evaluations of why an expedition succeeded or failed, and points out instances of incompetence or heroism. And he gives full credit to the Sherpas and to certain Sherpas in particular. In his words, the book might be called, “Lessons Learned from K2.”Relying on publications, including those of previous climbers, and his own experiences, Viesturs, aided by co-author David Roberts, describes how he reached the summit in 1992, and provides accounts of what he considers the six “most dramatic seasons in the mountain’s history.” The American expeditions of 1938, 1939, and 1953, the Italian expedition of 1954, the disastrous summers of 1986 and 2008, and Viesturs’ 1992 climb, are each subjected to careful analysis. Viesturs’ account of his 1992 climb is basically a re-written version of what he wrote in No Shortcuts to the Top—although each version contains personal details omitted from the other.K2 provides brief, but insightful, comments on the evolution of climbing gear. Over the decades covered in this book, the introduction of oxygen, headlamps, and radio, and improvements in food, clothing, boots, ropes, ice axes, pitons, and sleeping bags have brought significant changes in climbing strategies. The book also deals with the logistical problems of organizing expeditions and the high altitude illnesses some climbers experience. Viesturs stresses the importance of physical conditioning, route marking, prompt starts and early turnarounds on summit attempts, and cautious decision making. He dislikes the commercialization of climbing and some climbers’ use of modern technology to make up for inadequate climbing skills. He generally prefers to climb without oxygen or fixed ropes. His approach emphasizes self reliance; but he is appalled by those who fail to assist sick or injured climbers because they might have to sacrifice their own plans to do so.K2 has a useful index, and some great photographs. But it needs more detailed photos or drawings and maps. Many readers have a general knowledge of Mount Everest and the routes to its summit; but few have similar knowledge of K2. (This review is based on the paperback version of K2—the endpapers of the hardback version evidently included some of Dee Molenaar’s drawings and maps that were omitted from the paperback version, although they are cited in its index.)We are warned in the initial chapter that the book is not organized chronologically. In fact, the authors’ descriptions of years on K2 appear in the following order: 2008, 1992, 1938, 1939, 1953, 1954, and 1986. The authors place brief descriptions of the 1902 and 1909 expeditions in the third chapter. Chapter titles (e.g., “Decision,” “Brotherhood”) do not indicate a chapter’s subject. And the initial paragraphs in a chapter may not clarify its focus. For example, the chapter on the 1953 American expedition begins with an 8-page discussion of Viesturs’ life and interest in climbing. If there were reasons for this stream-of-consciousness writing style, the authors do not bother to present them. Within this questionable organizational scheme, however, the text is highly readable. Much of the information in K2 was drawn from other publications, and readers interested in a particular expedition may wish to read books about that expedition. But few will want to read all of the 25 books and 20 articles listed in the bibliography; for them, Viesturs’ thoughtful distillation of this literature and his critical evaluation of his sources will provide, at the least, an excellent introduction to this subject. Viesturs has followed up K2 with similar books about Annapurna [The Will to Climb (2011)] and Everest [The Mountain (2013)].

Written by one of the most accomplished mountaineers of all time, this is an authoritative look at many of the key expeditions on K2 (1938, 1939, 1953, 1954, 1986, 2008 eg). If you don't know, the author is one of a small group of men who have climbed all 14 of the world's 8000 meter peaks, so he writes with a huge wealth of experience. I find the story of such expeditions fascinating for many reasons, one of which is the decision-making that goes on as people face decisions on whether or not to try to summit, what equipment to take or leave, who to climb with, etc. I have tended to believe that many poor decisions are made, due a combination of factors such as extreme fatigue, hypoxia, summit fever, underestimating the weather pattern, etc. Ed, who I think is one of the few mountaineers, who does seem to take these factors into account enough, is not shy about pointing out when he thinks mistakes have been made. He will not always say so in so many words, but he lets you know what he would have done differently and why. Some reviewers criticize him for criticizing others, but I think this is a better approach than sweeping mistakes under the carpet and subtly implying that mountaineers are all noble, larger than life personas who never make serious mistakes. The accounts of the various expeditions make for fascinating reading. K2 is truly an extraordinarily dangerous mountain, and it is amazing that it has been climbed so many times, especially the early expeditions that had relatively primitive equipment. One side benefit of the book is that, being very well read, Ed gives what amounts to an annotated bibliography of mountaineering scattered throughout the book, so I have many ideas for further reading. One thing that I have learned is that if you want a more complete understanding of expeditions that have gone sour, you have to read more than one account. Conflicting accounts are common, with one author's hero often being another's villain (or at least an incompetent). A small quibble I have with this book is that the author occasionally loses focus on K2 to relate some of his own experiences that don't directly apply. They make for interesting reading, but because of them the book loses focus on the main topic here and there. Overall, a satisfying and illuminating read. My favorite K2 book remains, however, Jim Curran's book on the 1986 disaster, 'K2, Triumph and Tragedy'.

Livro me surpreendeu positivamente, não esperava esse nivel de informação sobre a longa historia do K2.Leitura obrigatoria para que montanhistas .

I thought this book was about Ed Viesturs' K2 expedition in 1992, but it's a history of K2 (including his own experience). It's very interesting with a very unusal structure. I enjoyed it! Thumbs up!

This is the second book of Ed, I have read. And this was simply superb. Just couldn’t wait to read till the end. Not only his own account n K2 but also about the other expeditions are also well written with very good insights. Loved every page of this book!

Bel libro

Detailing several climbs, anecdotes, celebrities and personal opinions made this book a gripping read. The author writes it in a very readbly way. It includes some photos too. Good book!