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The 100 Pack 608-2RS Skateboard Bearings are high-performance, single-row radial ball bearings designed for both radial and axial loads. With ABEC 1 precision, durable 52100 steel construction, and effective dual lip seals, these bearings ensure a smooth, reliable ride while protecting against contaminants.
B**E
Reviewer from USA: GREAT product for the price - But only if you know what you need to know.
WayneChicago wrote an excellent review. You should read that before reading mine. He outlines is perfect detail all the reasons why people buying these are complaining. Only he says it with tact and finesse. But I don't have that. So if you want a more direct rebuttal to the absolute nonsense you'll read in the product review section about these being akin to sand-filled garbage, then keep reading. However, If sciency words are just flowery nerdspeak to you and breaks your brain, then just sop reading now and go buy the grossly overpriced BONES bearings. They make the cool whizzing sound on first rip out of the box. Plus they're all shiny and you can't put a price on shiny, can you?Now....If you're not a mental tree stump and words with more than 3 syllables don't frighten you, then by all means, continue on!General Complaint: These are covered in some kind of oil and don't spin.Rebuttal: That is CORRECT! The insides are packed with grease which is thick. Think cooled bacon grease. When you reheat cooled bacon grease, what happens to it? It thins out and becomes more viscous, right?? Same thing applies here. These are packed with grease because they're designed to be run in machines for long periods of time. Which means heat from rotational friction, which means the grease viscosity inside the bearing thins due to thermal conduction. This is WHY they were built the way they come in the box. So you can use them in machine type applications right out of the box, where thermal friction needs to be considered.Ok, but can I still use them for skateboard or roller skate wheels though? YES, you can but you need to do a little work first. No big deal if you're not lazy. If you want these bearings to spin like a fidget spinner and go whizzzzzzz, you have to dissolve the grease inside the bearings and use a thinner lubricating agent in it's place. WayneChicago goes over how to do just that in his review. So I don't have to. Thanks, Wayne! *fistbump*And if you can't find WayneChicago's review, don't act like you don't have Google. Just look up "How to dissolve grease in ball bearings". This isn't rocket science...As far as I can tell, the outside grease feel is just machining oil which is often times applied to metal surfaces as a water repellant to keep the surfaces from rusting due to atmospheric conditions. Wood workers and machine shop operators know exactly what I'm talking about. Probably some mechanics too. Why would they do that? Well...where are these things made? Is there any water that might get into the bearings in transit from the factory to your house? Yeah, there is. There's literally an ocean of it. Highly corrosive salt water to boot. So, in order to make sure these don't arrive as little jammed up rust cakes at your doorstep courtesy of the Amazon delivery guy, they coat them in a light oil or maybe even some of the inner grease to prevent that from happening. You're WELCOME!!It's a prophylactic measure against people who don't know better. And also so people don't buy these and end up in their review section complaining about that too. Like so many other people are out here doing. The people complaining simply don't know what they don't know. And are trashing a decent product for the price from a company that is CLEARLY putting in an honest effort to deliver value to the consumer for a VERY REASONABLE PRICE.Some of these might have manufacturing defects, Some might last longer than others. When I bought mine they were under $0.30 each. I'm not putting mine under heavy load for long durations anyways, and I'll have PLENTY of replacements should some of them give out, as they sometimes do. I have not tested them yet but I don't need to to know that I DID NOT get screwed on the transaction. This is EXACTLY what I expected and I'm sure will exceed my expectations in performance. Sure, you get what you pay for. But if you know what you need to know before making a purchase, you'll find INCREDIBLE value in these bearings given you're buying them for the right application. If you find yourself with a chapped ass complaining about this product because you didn't know what you needed to know before making the purchase, chances are you also didn't take my advice and spring for the BONES.And that's on you, playa...-5 Stars.
J**R
Not sure I'd use them for skates
These are excellent quality for the low speed applications for which I buy bearings like this in my home machine shop. I use them as guides in various applications. For that they are an excellent value. I don't think the quality is high enough that I would use them in skates or skateboards, but it should be clear that these are designed for a low price point, not high quality high speed low rolling resistance applications. They aren't exactly gritty or sloppy, just not quite the quality I would want for those applications.
W**O
SKATING Review (not fidget spinners). Skater review. đ
I have over a decade in skating (roller skating, skateboarding, some inline skating) and that is my purpose in ordering these bearings. Here are some things to know: these are 608 sized, seven ball bearings, the kind used in skate equipment. The -2RS (or just RS) stands for removeable seal, which is the black plastic side seals you see pictured, two on each bearing. These can be removed by inserting a knife edge and carefully prying up one side to reveal the ball bearings, which run on races and will not spill out all over the place. When a bearing is listed as 608ZZ, the ZZ stands for non-removable shields (not called seals when they are not removable), which are also great bearings and slightly less expensive than the RS ones. The ZZ bearings work as well, and frankly, you can clean bearings without removing seals or shields by simply soaking and lubing the small âcracksâ, the thin imperfect lines, along the seals and shields. I rarely remove the seals and shields for cleaning and lubing. The same way water and small debris gets into the bearing, through the thin openings, is the same way the junk gets out when cleaned by soaking.These are greased bearings, meaning they have thicker grease in them. Out of the package, they rotate maybe only one full rotation with a strong spin. Not impressive...BUT, itâs the grease, not the bearing. Grease is important for equipment uses, like fans and motors, where it will be spinning (hot) for hundreds of hours at high RPM. For skating, where itâs low RPM for an hour or two at a time with plenty of stops, a light lube is fine to use instead of grease. That said, some manufacturers make and use grease even on dedicated skate bearings, such as Bones brand that sells Bones Bearing Grease, an expensive and not better than Vasoline (which is petroleum jelly) substitute for low RPM skate use, and Bones Bearing Grease will still slow a bearing.How to deal with grease? Either with or without the black seals pried off and removed (your choice), soak these bearings overnight in gasoline. In the morning, almost all of the grease will be dissolved (chemists know: like dissolves like). Then, lube with the lubricant of your choice. Best options are WD-40 (which is a great lubricant, says so even on the website, and displaces water), Hoppeâs Number 9 Oil (which lasts longer than WD-40 but picks up more dust and dirt), or Boeshield T-9 (which goes on wet and becomes dry), or any number of other light lubricants. You can even pay five times as much for thin skate dedicated lubes by bearing makers if breaking open your piggy bank is your thing...but then again, if that was your thing, youâre likely not reading this review on these bearings. LOL.They spin great in wheels on the ground after this small initial set-up process. Note: they do not spin like ceramic bearings, which spin better when not weight bearing and might be better than these if you only need a couple bearings for a fidget spinner. Long time skaters know, the ambility to spin in hand does not translate to better slow RPM, weighted spinning on a skate wheel. A bearing that spins for one minute in hand versus ten seconds in hand will barely be perceptible when loaded in a skate, and after a few minutes of skating and grit gets in both, the difference will be nil. Note also: if you want best spin, remove the seals altogether and skate open bearing. Sure, road crud will get in there, but it will anyhow around the seal. Seals are not as protective as meets the eye, and the bearings will definitely (all bearings) spin faster and better without the friction from the outer seal. So, with that removed, blasting out each wheel with a generous puff of WD-40 after each skate session takes about 60 seconds, removes water and dirt, and lubes for the next session, and many skaters know this is better than sealed bearings trapping in grit and, in particular, water which will rust a steel bearing. your choice though.Iâm impressed with these bearings so far. ABEC - 1 is fine for skates (its the outer tolerances, not the inner races and balls, that are represented by ABEC rating), and they are plenty fast and seem good quality. I will update this review after skating a few hundred miles on them by this summer. Thanks. I received no free bearings, do not work for the company, and did not give a pinky promise for a discounted price to review these bearings on Amazon. I ordered them full price, about twenty clams for one hundred bearings, just like youâre thinking about. Good luck.đ
D**I
Great price for alright bearings. Buy for use in personal builds.
As others have stated these are covered in grease. Its a basic coating that most bearings you order come with and was not a big deal. The bearings come in these plasic tube holders and all i did was fill it up with rubbing alcohol (best i had) and shook it then used a paper towel to clean them off. So far out of the 2 tubes ive done that to and tested, ive only had 2 hard to move bearings. It was clear this was due to the plastic cover not fitting well and not a problem with the bearing itself. If you have the time to clean them or were planning on using the bearings in a more mechanically heavy application and will grease them yourself then these are perfect. Very cheap and so far average quality. The grease smell is just a normal one i dont know why some people were overreacting. Im building mechanical joints for a raspberry pi project and these are exactly what i needed to ensure everything moves properly. I may clean them and mix in graphite powder with more grease to use them as sliprings since damage is not a concern for the sheer plethora i now have.
A**K
Nice quality. Price is right.
I use for 3D printing projects. They work great.
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