---
product_id: 473409344
title: "Cast 3D Printer Resin Easier to Burn and Print Clean Burnout Great Smooth Surface High Resolution Castable 405nm UV-Curing Resin for Thicker Designs and Metal Parts (True Blue, 1kg)"
brand: "siraya tech"
price: "€ 153.91"
currency: EUR
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 8
category: "Siraya Tech"
url: https://www.desertcart.gr/products/473409344-cast-3d-printer-resin-easier-to-burn-and-print-clean
store_origin: GR
region: Greece
---

# Ultra-high resolution prints Strong adhesion & easy printing Clean burnout with minimal ash Cast 3D Printer Resin Easier to Burn and Print Clean Burnout Great Smooth Surface High Resolution Castable 405nm UV-Curing Resin for Thicker Designs and Metal Parts (True Blue, 1kg)

**Brand:** siraya tech
**Price:** € 153.91
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 💎 Cast your vision in flawless blue brilliance!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Cast 3D Printer Resin Easier to Burn and Print Clean Burnout Great Smooth Surface High Resolution Castable 405nm UV-Curing Resin for Thicker Designs and Metal Parts (True Blue, 1kg) by siraya tech
- **How much does it cost?** € 153.91 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.gr](https://www.desertcart.gr/products/473409344-cast-3d-printer-resin-easier-to-burn-and-print-clean)

## Best For

- siraya tech enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted siraya tech brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **True Blue Brilliance:** Vibrant blue resin enhances visual clarity during printing, making quality control and finishing a breeze.
- • **Versatile & Reliable:** Perfect for thicker designs like bracelets, medals, and dental models, compatible with most LCD/DLP/SLA 3D printers.
- • **User-Friendly Printing:** No need for dry environments or additives—prints faster with excellent plate adhesion for both beginners and pros.
- • **Effortless Clean Burnout:** Wax-infused formula ensures near-zero ash residue for flawless metal casting every time.
- • **Precision at Every Layer:** 405nm UV-curing delivers ultra-fine details and smooth surfaces ideal for intricate jewelry and metal parts.

## Overview

Siraya Tech Cast True Blue Resin is a premium 405nm UV-curing 3D printer resin designed for high-resolution, clean burnout casting. Its wax-infused formula burns with minimal ash, making it ideal for thicker jewelry and metal parts. Easy to print without special conditions, it offers smooth surfaces and exceptional detail capture, favored by professionals seeking precision and reliability in casting workflows.

## Description

Product description Cast True Blue 3D Printer Resin - Easier to Burn and Print Making an excellent castable resin was never easy because if a resin is easier to print, then it is often difficult to get clean burnout. At the same time, easier to burnout resin are often very soft and challenging to print. Cast Purple was a groundbreaking resin because it was both easy to print and cast and affordable for cast resin. Now we are taking it one step further with Cast True Blue. Using the newly developed wax-based formulation, Cast True Blue UV resin is easier to burn out than Cast Purple, which expands the range of applications. This siraya tech castable resin is now possible to cast thicker model designs such as printed bracelets, large pendants, metal parts, jewelry casting, and by dentists. Like Cast Purple, Cast True Blue is field tested with commonly available casting powders. Love our Cast Purple castable resin but cast thicker designs like bracelets and metal parts? Features Easier to burn and burn more cleanly Easy to use and print High resolution Smooth model surface High precision details Following the success of Cast purple 3d resin, Siraya Tech is launching a Cast True Blue Siraya Tech Cast true blue 3d print resin is a castable resin that is even easier to burn out while having excellent resolution. This castable resin is designed for MSLA printer in mind. It can work in DLP and laser SLA printers but you would need FEP film-based vat. Since it is mostly for small jewelry, use the smallest build volume printer for printing. Castable Resin - High Precision Details Easier to Burn and Print This Cast 3d print resin does not require a very dry environment or special additive to print and burn well.Both new users and experienced users can easily print the model. High Precision Details Siraya Tech castable resin’s bright true blue color shows more clear gloss and has an extremely high resolution, which can capture complex features, print ultra-fine structures. Bright True Blue When printing is first finished, Cast True Blue castable 3d print resin is in deep blue. The color may turn partially milky blue with washing and post-curing as the wax content is revealed. The such color change is expected, and the print is ready for casting. Mechanical Properties Tips： Cleaning Use a painter brush (or any brush made with hair) remove excess resins on the printed part with Use 95% concentrated Ethanol (preferred) or IPA to clean. Some form of methanol should work but make sure it does not contain acetone. Do not submerge the parts in alcohol for more than 30 seconds. After 2-3 minutes of cleaning action, remove alcohol with a hair dryer or air blower. For complex part with lots cavities, it may be a good idea to clean/dry multiple times. Dry as quickly as one can once the print is cleaned with compressed air Surface should be matte, if you see shiny spots, repeat cleaning on those spots. Post-Curing Make sure print is completely dry before proceeding. It is important to fully cure Cast to ensure clean burnout. It is also important to ensure print does not absorb moisture as it may also affect burnout results We recommend putting print in glycerine to speed up curing without getting water on the print. Curing time varies with light fixture but most likely to be over 10 minutes and longer. AVOID USING WASH AND CURE ALL IN ONE MACHINE Fully Cured Print Should feel hard and a bit brittle. For detailed information and design of printing parameters, please see the user guide "Product guides and documents"

Review: Goodbye purple, hello BLUE - UPDATE 11/2/22: I work with this resin exclusively, and since I have so much experience with it, I figure that I’ll do updates for those of you who are just trying it or are having difficulties. This update is just to tell you guys about a successful experiment I tried. I was running low on blue, so I tried mixing blue and purple together and it honestly printed better than either one by themselves. I did about a 50/50 mixture, let it get fairly hot from sitting in super hot water from the sink for about 10 minutes. I don’t know if this is necessary, but I shook the F&$K out of it just to be sure. The resulting prints are shockingly good, I think that the addition of the purple give the pieces more rigidity, while the blue ensures cleaner models and supports. I haven’t done a cast with it yet, but I’ll let you know how it burns out. If that goes well, I will definitely be doing this from now on UPDATE 10/17/22: If you are about to hit that “buy now” button on the purple, STOP, get the blue… you’ll thank me later. Literally everything about the blue is light-years better than the purple. I went through an entire kg of purple without ever getting anything I was truly happy with (see below for old review). I was never able to achieve prints that didn’t have big build ups of unwanted resin, the post processing was ridiculous, and even after cleaning the models THOROUGHLY, I still wouldn’t get consistently clean burn outs. The Blue has none of those issues. Haven’t had a single build up around supports, the supports break cleanly from the models, post processing is easy and much faster, and best of all, the burnout is clean. The only downside of the blue is that the models are VERY fragile before post curing, so you have to be super careful. I have heard you might be able to get away without post curing at all, but I would recommend it for the simple fact that it strengthens the models significantly. If Blue is in stock, spend the extra money. I am maybe 1/3 of the way through a 500g bottle and I have achieved more usable prints than with an entire kg of the purple. OLD REVIEW OF PURPLE: I go back and forth with this resin, there are things that I like and things that I really don’t like. For the price, this stuff is good. Not great, good. If you do everything right (I’ll come back to this) you’ll get pretty good resolution, it’ll be easy to sand/finish, and you’ll have a clean burnout. But, in order for all of that to be achieved, you really have to follow these rules. First, and probably the most frustrating, is finding the proper settings. I found it really difficult to get my settings correct and I wasted a lot of time and resin doing so. I use a Mars 3 and my settings are as follows (I hope this helps someone): Layer size: 0.05micron Bottom layer count: 5 Exposure time: 5.5 Bottom exposure time: 100.00 Choose “light off delay” under the “waiting mode during printing” drop box and do: Light off delay: 2.000 Bottom light off delay: 5.000 Bottom lift speed: 50 Lifting speed: 50 Bottom retract speed: 100 Retract speed: 100 These settings have worked, but I still get a lot of resin build up around my supports which is a nightmare to clean up, if it doesn’t completely ruin the piece. These are also not the only settings I have ever tried, I have experimented with just about every reasonable combination and I haven’t been able to achieve clean prints without any globs of resin around the supports. So here’s a tip: try to position your piece and supports somewhere that will be easy to clean and won’t be the end of the world if not perfect. BE SURE TO PRINT AT 25-30°C or else you will have many failed prints! Next, you have to clean the pieces in a very specific way. No more than 30sec submersed in IPA, they recommend only using a paint brush to remove excess, and then immediately run under hot water for 30sec and then cold water for 30sec. This process has to be repeated until clean, and I find myself doing at least 6-7 cycles of this. It’s honestly pretty annoying. Next, post curing must be done in some sort of liquid with a similar refractive index as water, but NOT water, the resin is porous and the absorbed water can ruin your cast . They recommend using vegetable glycerin, but I had mineral oil on hand and it seems to work fine (more work to clean up so I’d recommend VG if you are going to buy something). You have to do this because the resin won’t cure in air, believe me, I have tried. You have to cure for at least 30 minutes, but I find myself having to cure for 1-1.5 hours, which is ridiculously long. Once it’s done curing, clean it off and be sure to dry it right away as to not let it absorb too much water. Be sure to have your burnout temp reach 1350°F and hold for 2-4 hours. Annnnd it’s just that simple! But seriously, this stuff is finicky and hard to get right, I’m almost done with a full kg and I’m still not completely happy with the results, but it works well enough if you are careful and methodical.
Review: A gold standard for jewelry Casting. - This stuff prints pretty well. Burns out really well. Just takes a bit more of a ramp than traditional polycast.

## Features

- EASIER TO BURN AND CLEAN- Siraya Tech castable resin material contains some wax, so this cast resin is easier to burn than many non-wax-based casting resins, and leaves much less ash during the burning process and burns out cleanly, so this castable 3d resin is ideal for use in thicker designs, such as bracelets and metal parts.
- EASIER TO PRINT - This Cast SLA UV resin is easier to use than other castable resins as it does not require a very dry environment or special additive to print and burn well, and this siraya tech castable resin can print quickly and has high resolution and good plate adhesion. Both new users and experienced users can easily print the model.
- HIGH SURFACE QUALITY - Siraya Tech castable resin’s bright true blue color shows more clear gloss and making the printed model have a higher resolution and a smooth high-quality surface, the printing details show high precision, very suitable for cast jewelry.
- WIDELY USED – Siraya Tech Cast true blue resin burns easier and burns cleaner than Cast purple, so it's ideal for printing thicker designs like bracelets, Big pendents, Medals, and Coins, and also for metal parts, jewelry casting, and by dentists. This castable resin 3d printer resin can be used in most LCD DLP SLA 3D printers.
- HIGH RESOLUTION AND SOFTER - Cast True Blue UV resin is softer than cast purple and has an extremely high resolution, which can capture complex features, print ultra-fine structures, and provide smooth surface finishes and high-precision details for printed models.

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| Brand | Siraya Tech |
| Color | True Blue 1000g |
| Compatible Devices | Laptop, Smartphone |
| Customer Reviews | 4.5 out of 5 stars 899 Reviews |
| Item Weight | 1 Kilograms |
| Material | Polyurethane |
| Product Dimensions | 5.91"D x 5.12"W x 8.27"H |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Siraya Tech
- **Color:** True Blue 1000g
- **Item Weight:** 1 Kilograms
- **Material:** Polyurethane
- **Product Dimensions:** 5.91"D x 5.12"W x 8.27"H

## Images

![Cast 3D Printer Resin Easier to Burn and Print Clean Burnout Great Smooth Surface High Resolution Castable 405nm UV-Curing Resin for Thicker Designs and Metal Parts (True Blue, 1kg) - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61GKytx9VeL.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Color** options.

## Questions & Answers

**Q: What is the exposure for anycubic photon mono 4k i do not find in the guide**
A: I use the anycubic photon mono 4k printer.   I use 5 to 7 second exposure setting.  Going to faster times such as 2-3 seconds has never worked.      Going to longer times don't look needed  This stuff works great. Sticks to plate every time. . I'm not in a hurry as this is for castings.  Make sure you have at least enough lift to break contact area. At least 6 mm.  Lift speed is kind of slow at 50 mm per minute. I want to give it time to break the seal between the part and bottom .  I use 30 seconds per layer on base plate to start.   With about 7 layers or so. This will make the base plate layers harder. Less time may soften it up and help get it off easy.  But not stick as well.    I clean tank every print and make sure no junk is hidden somewhere.  I level every print and use only clean resin. This stuff is the best  for castings.  Seems like curing takes many times longer under UV light.    But I look at each one and decide.  I lightly sand each model 100% . This will also help the coating material stick better.   REX

**Q: What investment are people using with this successfully? i have plasticast but hear optima prestige is better for this kind of wax -thanks!**
A: Investment and burnout recommendation
Our users have reported successes with  Plasticast® investment by Ransom & Randolph
https://www.ransom-randolph.com/plasticast
Recommendend Burn out schedule can be found here:
https://www.ransom-randolph.com/_files/ugd/cc5f22_902ad781b4e74bf3b3d55bff34f7fe6c.pdf

Some user may have hard time finding Plasticast, here is an alternative found in UK and recommended by VOG
https://www.srs-ltd.co.uk/products/investment-powder/classic

**Q: what is the shelf life of Siraya Tech Cast?**
A: If unopened does not really have one, I use 3 year old resins.
With open bottles of castable resins it is recommended to use fairly quickly as air/moisture can effect burnout. 
To keep cast fresh I pour some into another UV blocking bottle (amber glass) and use, this way it reduces how much air/moisture can affect the bulk of the resin.

**Q: is this resin compatible with the new elegoo mars 3 msla 4k printer? If so what are the recommended settings.**
A: hi，

Cast user guide:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1m2JOi054N9dFiQk2e8x1ijl09gSv_qChY_65AMDaHxI/edit?usp=sharing
It is best to cast as soon as you finalize full post curing. moisture in air can affect burnout

We highly recommend to join our very active user group at 
https://www.facebook.com/groups/sirayatech/ 
Lots professionals like yourself and they often can provide better application specific experience than we could

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Goodbye purple, hello BLUE
*by B***N on September 17, 2022*

UPDATE 11/2/22: I work with this resin exclusively, and since I have so much experience with it, I figure that I’ll do updates for those of you who are just trying it or are having difficulties. This update is just to tell you guys about a successful experiment I tried. I was running low on blue, so I tried mixing blue and purple together and it honestly printed better than either one by themselves. I did about a 50/50 mixture, let it get fairly hot from sitting in super hot water from the sink for about 10 minutes. I don’t know if this is necessary, but I shook the F&$K out of it just to be sure. The resulting prints are shockingly good, I think that the addition of the purple give the pieces more rigidity, while the blue ensures cleaner models and supports. I haven’t done a cast with it yet, but I’ll let you know how it burns out. If that goes well, I will definitely be doing this from now on UPDATE 10/17/22: If you are about to hit that “buy now” button on the purple, STOP, get the blue… you’ll thank me later. Literally everything about the blue is light-years better than the purple. I went through an entire kg of purple without ever getting anything I was truly happy with (see below for old review). I was never able to achieve prints that didn’t have big build ups of unwanted resin, the post processing was ridiculous, and even after cleaning the models THOROUGHLY, I still wouldn’t get consistently clean burn outs. The Blue has none of those issues. Haven’t had a single build up around supports, the supports break cleanly from the models, post processing is easy and much faster, and best of all, the burnout is clean. The only downside of the blue is that the models are VERY fragile before post curing, so you have to be super careful. I have heard you might be able to get away without post curing at all, but I would recommend it for the simple fact that it strengthens the models significantly. If Blue is in stock, spend the extra money. I am maybe 1/3 of the way through a 500g bottle and I have achieved more usable prints than with an entire kg of the purple. OLD REVIEW OF PURPLE: I go back and forth with this resin, there are things that I like and things that I really don’t like. For the price, this stuff is good. Not great, good. If you do everything right (I’ll come back to this) you’ll get pretty good resolution, it’ll be easy to sand/finish, and you’ll have a clean burnout. But, in order for all of that to be achieved, you really have to follow these rules. First, and probably the most frustrating, is finding the proper settings. I found it really difficult to get my settings correct and I wasted a lot of time and resin doing so. I use a Mars 3 and my settings are as follows (I hope this helps someone): Layer size: 0.05micron Bottom layer count: 5 Exposure time: 5.5 Bottom exposure time: 100.00 Choose “light off delay” under the “waiting mode during printing” drop box and do: Light off delay: 2.000 Bottom light off delay: 5.000 Bottom lift speed: 50 Lifting speed: 50 Bottom retract speed: 100 Retract speed: 100 These settings have worked, but I still get a lot of resin build up around my supports which is a nightmare to clean up, if it doesn’t completely ruin the piece. These are also not the only settings I have ever tried, I have experimented with just about every reasonable combination and I haven’t been able to achieve clean prints without any globs of resin around the supports. So here’s a tip: try to position your piece and supports somewhere that will be easy to clean and won’t be the end of the world if not perfect. BE SURE TO PRINT AT 25-30°C or else you will have many failed prints! Next, you have to clean the pieces in a very specific way. No more than 30sec submersed in IPA, they recommend only using a paint brush to remove excess, and then immediately run under hot water for 30sec and then cold water for 30sec. This process has to be repeated until clean, and I find myself doing at least 6-7 cycles of this. It’s honestly pretty annoying. Next, post curing must be done in some sort of liquid with a similar refractive index as water, but NOT water, the resin is porous and the absorbed water can ruin your cast . They recommend using vegetable glycerin, but I had mineral oil on hand and it seems to work fine (more work to clean up so I’d recommend VG if you are going to buy something). You have to do this because the resin won’t cure in air, believe me, I have tried. You have to cure for at least 30 minutes, but I find myself having to cure for 1-1.5 hours, which is ridiculously long. Once it’s done curing, clean it off and be sure to dry it right away as to not let it absorb too much water. Be sure to have your burnout temp reach 1350°F and hold for 2-4 hours. Annnnd it’s just that simple! But seriously, this stuff is finicky and hard to get right, I’m almost done with a full kg and I’m still not completely happy with the results, but it works well enough if you are careful and methodical.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ A gold standard for jewelry Casting.
*by C***N on February 22, 2026*

This stuff prints pretty well. Burns out really well. Just takes a bit more of a ramp than traditional polycast.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great product
*by M***R on February 25, 2026*

Great for casting

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*Product available on Desertcart Greece*
*Store origin: GR*
*Last updated: 2026-05-07*